What all is for sale? Will you make a list with prices?

 

It's in the for sale section. But if you are interested in anything, private message me.

 

Ok, the balls been rolling on a new shortblock. Going with fordstrokers.com. Jim over there knows his shit, dart block, scat 4340 internals, wiseco pistons, ~9.5:1 compression. Should be able to take 1000 horse without an issue. Plan is to just run 700rwhp on the street and have it be very reliable. I'm also going to have tuner clean up the tune and do a few high hp pulls to see what it can do. Stepping up to billet diff flange, chromoly drive shaft and a Mcleod twin disc RXT. Plus a Trans front brace, redo the driveshaft safety loop and other little things. Thinking about an electronic boost controller as well if money will allow.

It will be 4-5 months to get the engine, just have to sell my old stuff to help fund the new.

 

What does woody say about the ring gap you found in the old motor?

 

Stock engines have a .016-.018 top ring gap for that bore size. So, insanely small for the power it was making.

 

so what RG should be ideal to use on a 4.030 then?

 

Depends on the setup. There's a multiplier that you can "go by".

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According to that chart it was supposed to be

.026-28 top ring
.028-32 second

 

Bore x 0.0055"-0.007" = ring gap for boosted applications depending on HP/boost/manf etc

So, with a 4.030 bore, ring gap should be 0.022" to 0.028" depending on preference and power. I prefer better safe than sorry, aka bigger gap. If you look at the ring gap as a leak path hole that has a certain cross sectional area, the difference between 0.022" and 0.028" is roughly 20% with a piston to wall clearance of 0.005".

20% may sound large, but in this case its really a leak path area of 0.00011" for the 0.022" ring gap, and 0.00014" for the 0.028". Thats smaller than a pin hole. I never understood why people get so crazy with running tight ring gaps. A good comparison would be that a 1 tablespoon is 3X the volume of a teaspoon, but when your putting a tablespoon of sugar in Lake Erie, it still doesn't mean shit.


Edit: looks like I was a little late to the game with my reply.

 

That motor didn't do that from the ring gap at that boost level. Better look a little closer to you're tuneup... What are the I.A.T.'s ? That damage didn't come from just one run or one dyno pull either.

What fuel? What boost? What timing? And what AFR?

I have several pistons that look like that. Most are from trying to run Meth with pump gas...or pump gas and to high of I.A.T's

 

I highly disagree. I found evidence of ring butting, cylinder walls also show evidence of tight ring gap.

The most I ran was 26* on 10psi for one dyno pull.

The rest of the year was 23* on 7lbs of boost on the street WITH E85 at 11.2:1 AFR's.

I should have been able to put it at 30+ degrees of timing at that boost level.

Megasquirt had a safeguard on boost and anything above 11.8 AFR's in boost. I checked bank to bank and AFR was within .2

It did start burning a shit ton of oil and gradually got worse, but who knows if the ringlands popped and caused oil to burn, or something else was causing it. Only two cylinders weren't completely broken. You can go ahead and put a .020 ring top gap on an 800hp engine, I won't be doing that.

 

So if you put too much fuel too it (wash down the cylinders) and too little timing...what do you think happens?? People think a overly rich AFR and no timing (to Speak of) is safe.....it's not. It traps fuel between the rings then auto ignites making the rings flutter and oil gets by, which then causes the disaster.

But hey, what do I know? Drop all that coin on a new motor and run that same tune up.

Since I got away from that form of thinking (knock on wood) I have yet to hurt another piston. 28 psi, 26 degrees timing, and 12.7 AFR ....that was with a air to air. Now with the air to water we run more timing.

On the 334 and straight e85 and 18 psi we ran 28 degrees timing...

Carry on

 

With E85 don't you need to run a lower A/F than straight gasoline, or Does the number on your wide band need to be the same? I thought it was high 9's for the AFR?

 

I understand all of that. 11.2-11.4 AFR is not so rich it's going to cause issues. IATs were 90°. As you know every engine is different in what it likes for timing. I tuned by what the engine wanted. I ran 12:1 and it made less power, it stopped gaining as much power after 26.5° of timing. Could I have tried to push it more? Probably, but in IA our e-85 tests at e-70 year around

You keep ignoring the .020 ring gap, I guess you can run a .020 top and .024 second gap in an 800 hp engine if you like. Tell me what happens.

 

If your wideband is calibrated for gas you can go off the same stoich 14.7:1 for e85. Engines like a richer mix of e85 because of it's ability to cool.

But like stangguy said, people think you need to go nuts with richening it. I see guys in the 10.0-10.5 range with 15° of timing. That is not true and only causes problems described above.

 

I run high 10s, low 11s @ WOT on the gas scale with E85, 13.2 or so idle and cruise.

 

Sent my injectors out to get cleaned/flowed. The tips were so clogged with caked oil they were fucking up my flow pattern causing up to a 10% difference. Good to roll now!

Sent my heads to the engine builder to get checked, and sent the cam off to get degreed.

Going to send the headers off to get jet hot coated.

Looks like the engine won't be done until the end of June. But that's ok, I'm getting married the end of May, so it should work out well

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Congratulations !!!

 

Nice build BTW !

 

Awesome build i cant wait till june..Love the fact that you kept it manual and didnt go auto.