Getting there.
Hot side done, and cold side done.

No oiling issues on the drive home to install the injectors and attach cold side to throttle body. Pump works great. No oiling issues at all (That I know of).

I just installed the 60lb injectors and made my slot maf live.
Needless to say, I have serious tuning issues right now.

Hopefully I'll have a tune to upload tomorrow that will at least get the A/F ratio lean enough that my wideband can read it.

Man, is it running rich right now.

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nice.
60 lbs injectors re very big over stock so yes it runs pig rich, be carrefull not to wash your cilinders with to much fuel.

 

Im with you on washing the cylinders. I did a datalog to send off to my tuner, and the truck sits till I have a new tune sent to me.

Once the a/f ratio is anywhere close, I'll change the oil again (I just changed it the day before installing the turbo).

I didn't think the base tune for an SCT device would run that rich, but I really know so little about it.

 

Quick update.
Im driving it now, A/F ratio is good.

On to the next issue. Boost leaking from somewhere. Im only seeing 2 lbs boost.
I know its not my silicone couplers and band clamps. Under boost, they might pop off, but not leak.

That brings me to Waste Gate or Blow off valve.

Im getting there.

 

Found the issue.
My new turbo that has been passed thru a few hands before I picked it up isn't what I thought it is.

The turbine housing is a .96.
I need a .68

anyone care to comment?
Im sure this explains my low/slow boost.

 

what does the turbine measure??

 

Ah, I just bought one locally.
Living in Canada is such a pain in the a$$ when it comes to shipping and customs.
It will be a few weeks, but it was about the same price as Summit, so good enough.

One step at a time.....Im going to get this old truck moving.

 

this is the specs I have:
t4
4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet 72mm compressor
f1-68 compressor blade
3 inch exhaust outlet
journal bearing
has .96 turbine housing

 

usually the f1-68 refers to the turbine of a tnetics turbo

sounds close to a Qtrim, our Qtrims have a 67mm exducer, so our magnum turbine housings prob wouldn't work for your application

 

As you know....I'm along way from knowing much about turbos. Mom always said education costs money.

I'll try the smaller exhaust turbine from turbonetics and hope I get the results I'm after. I'm certain the compressor map that came with the turbo was the wrong one as I did spend time mapping it against the airflow of a 302.

I'll report back in a week or two.

 

Where are you referencing your wategate at? You will get more boost if it is referenced up near the motor instead of on the turbos compressor housing(rear mount of course).

Jess

 

I thought of something similar to that, so I actually installed a wastegate blocker plate to see if my used wastegate was leaking or opening way too quick.

With the blocker plate, I didn't bring on boost any lower in the rpm range, but did touch on 4psi at just over 5000 rpm.
Keep in mind my setup is far from ideal. I have 2 of the original 4 cats, then I'm thru a 2 to 1 magniflow muffler. Also, my motor is a stock 302 with factory explorer cam.
I do have a set of thumper ported heads with springs and tmoss ported lower intake in the garage. When my motor comes out at some point those will go on with a healthier cam. Right now my motor isn't exactly a strong air pump.
A smaller chamber for the exhaust to spool the turbine quicker seems to be a great tradeoff for my less than ideal setup. Hopefully exhaust back pressure doesn't cause my too much pain.
This is a pretty good experiment for me. My oiling system has worked perfectly for me. I think it will be a solid daily driver with hopefully some boost coming on early in the rpm range.

 

The problem is from a .96, to say something .68 (not sure what Turbonetics offers for the F1 68), typically you won't see a large drop in spool. You may get it down to 4k or so, but still probably not what you're after. I would remove the cats if possible, and is your muffler pre, or post turbine?

 

I could pull the cats, and have them re-welded if I need to have the truck switch owners I suppose.
Also, the mufflers pre-turbine. It's straight thru with no scallops, but still far from ideal.

Also, with winters here, I don't want to wrap the exhaust all the way back. I've seen what happens after a winter, even with aluminized pipe.
I'm spooked to hear that you have a bad feeling about the boost still coming on in higher rpms. I could live with that more than what I have now, but would love to have it full on by 2500.

I knew going in to this that it would be a learning experience. Some say they have had great success with rear mounts, so we. Will see what I can do. There are definitely the challenges of a quiet dd that's driven in the winter.

I will say that adding the turbo to my loud magniflow muffler took away the killer highway drone I was experiencing. Now the truck is throaty at idle, and nice to drive on the highway.

Failing the new housing, and then the cats if required, I will look at removing the muffler and sticking something post turbo. There just isnt much room there. You never know though, I'm betting the smaller turbine housing will make the truck even quieter and give me room to play with mufflers.

Btw, thanks for the comments guys. Everything is helpful.

 

You may want to reconsider not wrapping the pipes. I've been following another rear mounted SUV thread here (check out post #115)::

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/vasinvictors-3-4-rear-mount-turbo-setup-274414/index6.html

Maybe you can paint your pipes with hi-temp paint and then wrap?

 

Still no turbine housing.
What I am experiencing is a massive gas mileage increase though.
I keep thinking it has to be due to the new tuning.

Combined city highway used to be about 16, and now Im seeing 20+. I can't explain this.

Even as the truck sits seeing only 2 lbs boost, there is enough power that my large tires with the hard rubber compound will break loose and just keep spinning.
Its already way more fun to drive and its manners are fantastic.

As I continue to tweek the setup, I can clearly see its going to be a huge success.

 

Ok, this isn't dead.
Turbine housing came in and is installed.
I'm much happier with this housing. Even on highway part throttle merges at 3000rpm I'm going in to boost. Way better.
I did do a full throttle pull and hit my preset 9lbs boost by 3500rpm in 2nd gear, although I had to let off right away due to detonation. To me, thats perfectly acceptable as after a gear shift I'm still going to be at max boost rpm range.

I have had a few issues to work thru. I started having missing issues. It turns out that a previous owner had changed #1 injector connector and it looked like the harness where it was spliced in was randomly shorting. No issues since I changed the connector again.

I still have the dreaded catch can oil vapor smell. I think I'm going to run a 3/8" line to the back of the truck with a filter on the end of the hose. I'm not sure if filling my catch can with steel wool and making sure the air going in to the can is plumbed to the bottom will fix that, but I doubt it.

My air box for my air filter is made out of a portable tool box. Its a plastic of some sort, so we will see how it holds up in the winter. The air filter is plenty high, so I'm not worried about any sort of clearance issue. Its now well protected from rain, but I'm not sure if the box will fill from swirling snow over winter. At least if it does, its an easy job to empty it, I just open the 'tool box' lid and let the snow fall out.

Now, I'm back in the tuning phase. Im ok for about 5 lbs boost, but if I push to my set 9 lbs boost I get detonation. Getting my intercooler radiator and pump mounted to get the a/w intercooler working will help this, but I'd rather tune it out using ait tables. Then I could keep the timing advanced with cool air.

As a daily driver, this is well on its way to being a complete success. My truck used to fall on its face in mid to upper rpms and on the highway, but now it pulls really hard.

I still have 2 of the 4 cats and a magniflow muffler installed pre turbo. Lots not right with my build, but I am seeing solid results and there is no highway drone. Interestingly, with all that 'stuff' in the exhaust my truck isn't exactly quiet and sounds a long way from stock, even though I have not touched the motor (yet). Id love to pull the cats and muffler, but I'd have to pay to have them removed. Then, if its too loud Id have to pay to have them re-installed. Maybe next year if I'm after a faster spool (I'm guessing I will, as we can never have enough power).

 

What is your a/f ratio when detonation happens ?
Be carefull with that.

 

Exactly. I have the 60lb injectors installed, but more tuning required.
I do have a set of ported gt40p heads waiting to go on, but the engine bay is so tight I really should pull the motor to change them. Im not ready to do that yet. So, for now I either need to dial back the boost controller or keep my foot off the floor. Im going to just keep my foot out of it. I have James with Henson Performance doing the tuning via logging and email. My understanding is that its best to set the a/f ratio via this method, but best to set timing on the dyno.

I have not plugged in my a/f gauge and was not logging when I hit full boost, so I am not sure if it is a low a/f ratio or too much timing. When James is ready to do the wot pulls, he will send me a file with locked trans. I will make sure he knows to fatten up the mixture and pull timing to be safe for the first wot pull.

I'd hate for my next post to be 'ok, its head change time'.

 

Ok, under wot I had a load/maf add counts area that was lean at almost 15. The a/f ratio is looking pretty flat on a drive around, and wot keeps a pretty steady 11.5 now. I think Im almost tuned.

I am seeing boost at part throttle now, and running strong. My boost controller is set for a max 10 lbs. Im seeing iat's at 144 degrees. Timing rolls down to 16 degrees in my log very briefly sometimes. Im sure that more timing can be added once that intake air is cooler. I havn't looked closely around my heads, but Im not sucking coolant. That's a good thing.

I do have 1 injector that tested weak, and am kinda wondering how I would go about getting just 1 injector that I would know flows the same as my other 7. I have the flow numbers, but how could I be sure the new one will have the same flow as the others until I get it here and have it tested on the same machine?