Was anything else damaged? Glad you figured it out. Looks like a nice build.

 

Any updates on this? Nice build, love the exhaust.

 

I decided to take my time and save up for new parts. I am waiting on new valves and then after mock up, push rods. I think it was a combination of wrong pushrod length and the FMS lifters failing. Thanks, at least the exhaust still looks good.

 

It's been a while, but I did have some news. The rings aren't seating as fast as I thought on the re-build, but I hope to get some mileage on it shortly. It made just over 500whp on 6psi with 17* timing. It is tough to get the tune better with some oil blowing past the rings. It is very drivable and should improve soon followed by the tune. I was suprised it made this much with this little boost. I know it is only a dyno, but does this hp number seem in line with peoples thinking? I also need some mileage on the clutch. I am taking my time and hoping to avoid any oops-es.

 

how much time/miles on the rebuild? Rings should come in fairly quick. What material are the rings?

 

I would have to ask about the rings as I didn't put it together this time. About 10ish minutes of idle time and 2 pulls on the dyno. I do plan on a few spirited runs for the rings and that should be that. The clutch should take a few hundred miles to break in.

 

I drove the car home today and I think the rings are fine. Any smoke was coming from the breathers on the valve covers which I intend to run line to a catch can in the near future. It starts and runs great. Bout time!

 

A little over a hidred miles and the car is great. Question... At just over 6psi the car is soaking the valve cover breathers with oil pretty quickly. I didn't think the car would try to push oil out until using more boost. Any ideas as to why is it 'every car is different.' I plan to weld an a/n fitting on and running a line to a catch can, but only lessens the mess. Any takers?

 

how do you like the florida 5.0 guage setup?

 

The gauge setup was great; everything was clearly labeled and easy to install.

 

I'd start looking into a leakdown test at this point. If the motor is fresh, it should not push oil out at all. It might be the rings did not seat correctly, or the valve seals are incorrect/toast. I run two breathers on my 393 (one on each cover) and it never wet the covers(15lbs on the dyno, 13.5 on the track)... I hope it's something simple, but the leakdown test is the place to start. Let us know what you find.

Nate

 

It definitely wasn't what I expected. Thanks for the idea and I will certainly look in to it.

 

Well.. since I own this now, lets continue where Sean left off:

I bought the car in June, and have spent considerable time playing with the tune, idle, a/f, etc...

I've been able to get the car to idle at 800 with timeing at 12 degrees BTDC... havent checked vacuum though... but it behaves rather nicely... in the process reset the TPS and was able to get the idle down to 1.5% I still have the off-idle stumble, but I can now let out the clutch at it almost behaves like a normal car.

A/F at idle I have set for 14.5... this might be too lean, but so far it works, with the exception of cooking a couple of plug wires.

On plug wires and BG Customs turbo kit: I recommend using 90 degree boots on the passenger side routing the wires DOWN and away from the headers, rather than trying to run them up and squeezing them between the DP and valve cover... drivers side is OK with the 135 degree boots.

Other than cooking alternators... (turbo blanket helps) relocating the alternator using a march, summit or some other mount other than the OE should work just fine.

DP is heat wrapped, as is the crossover pipe.

So far , a little over 1200 miles since the motor went in and fired.... just a little bit of vapor out the VC breather now

its making progress.

 

A good idea for alternator movement.

https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=151416.0

 

Opposite, this a little rich for idle.

 

I think that is right on the money especially if the engine is happy and showing good vacuum.

 

You can't say that without knowing the details of his setup. On a stock engine with a stock computer (or other sequential injection setup), 14.7 is the target. If he's running any sort of cam, 14.7 is unlikely to be achieved. There's nothing wrong with a 14.5 idle. The important thing for tuning idle is tuning for highest vacuum, not an AFR number.

 

hence why I said it might be lean...

I will experiment with 14.2 and see how it likes it...

 

Update:

shortly after my last post... a hydraulic lifter failed.. fortunately it failed in the driveway... pics later... but it was entertaining. We used comp cams lifters for custom ground Jay Allen Camshaft.

It seems that NONE of the hydraulic rollers mfgs will say the lifters are good for the existing spring pressures.... so, Lunati recommended converting over to solid roller... waiting on parts....

 

Sorry to hear about the lifter. Have you taken it to the track? If so, times?

What are your spring pressures? I have been wondering if i should go with solid rollers too...

Thanks,
Dan