well 351 youre lucky .... the track here I have personally seen em to tell em to go home ... if you claim ignorance on the first offense yhey might let you run but after that they remember ya lol and will send ya home I watched 3 guys go home one night for that stuff ...

 

Will the fuel pump be ok ,upside down?

 

The line is NHRA certified. I will have to make several changes, though.
The fuel pump is mounted correctly according to Weldon's web site. As long as there is no funky angle it should be fine.

 

wow ... they told us here that you have to have no more than 12 inches of rubber and there has to be either a braided stainlerss type hose or a hardline the rest of the way

 

There are a couple brands of woven-push and woven-twist lock that are accepted. Russel, aeroquip??? I cant remember

 

My fuel line is Aeroquip. I will need to make some changes, though.

 

What changes? Different route, or different items?

Nate

 

All fuel lines that run past the transmission must be encased in metal for 16 inches as one example.

 

From what I read, that goes for lines that are in the tunnel and lines that are 6in from the firewall.

 

I think Vader is right. You should be fine with your routing. Just make sure you keep all sharp metal objects/body/frame away from the lines. You can't be to careful.

Nate

 

LINES - "All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braded or NHRA accecpted "woven or woven-pushlok." A maximum of 12 inches total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non steel braded hose is permitted for connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braded lines) in the flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16 inch length of steel tubing. 1/8 in minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as a protection against fuel line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed in the driveshaft tunnel and must be 6in from firewall incase of flywheel/flexplate explosion. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing supercharger drive belts be steel braded, NHRA accepted woven or woven pushlok lines: Aeroquip FC300, FC332, Aeroquip Star Lite 200, AQP, Earls Prolite, Gates LOL plus, Goodridge 710, Russell Twist-Lok 836 and XRP HS-79. Contact NHRA for updates."

 

I am happy to say it started and ran on its own!
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It was cool to have it run, finally. Now I need to address other issues. Re do the intake piping to attach it to the TB. The clutch fork is bindin on the bellhousing. I thought I purchased the extended one from D&D for the tko. Obviously not. I also need to keep the clutch cable from cooking on the headers. Anyone have any ideas? The exhaust will be made time permitting.

 

Congrats on getting it running!!. As for the clutch cable, get Maximum Motorsports universal clutch cable, which I believe is a factory Ford cable for the 96 and up Mustangs. It is nice and long and should give you plenty of clearance. I am using it and I am very happy with it. I also put it in a thermal sleeve for good measure.

 

Congrats

 

This thing is almost back together again. Do to using a 3/8" spacer on the upper manifold to clear the fuel rail I cut the charge pipe and conected it with some silicone and t-bolts. I don't like how close the silicone is to the exhaust side of the turbo. I hope I can squeeze a blanket on the turbo. Also, after triming the front fascia for the intercooler I would like to learn some paint skills. How would you body guys recommend stripping the paint off of the plastic front clip? I will try to get some pics up after work tonight.

 

this take some time but I sanded off all the old cracked paint & filled in any pin holes with a flexible epoxy. Paint prep. must use a product like bulldog plastic prep. (spray on) then use an acrylic urethane paint for the base coat clear coat. (Do Not Use A Filler Primer) It is not flexible and will crack.

 

I haven't had much time lately as studying for my new job has taken up a lot of time. I have been doing some wiring clean up and small odds and ends. Here is a bracket I made for the FPR.
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Quick tune question (BS3). When I blip the throttle there is a slight hesitation before a rise in rpm and everything in the tables move to the right. What could this be?

 

manifold fill