If you haven't found a pump I'd look at the e2000. Used on a bunch of 1990's injected fords from 6cyl to 460. Easy to find and anywhere from $40-$80. I've been running one for over a year DD. No issues.

 

can I use it on a carbed application?

also guys im lookin for a boost gauge and a wideband no junk please
if anyone can help thanks

 

I'm using it on a blow thru cv motorcycle carb down to 2psi. As long as you have a good fuel pressure reg with a big enuff return it will be fine. I'm running 5/16" feed, 3/8" return with a Mallory 4309 regulator. It holds 2psi base fuel pressure rock solid.

 

I have a mangna fuel reg so it should be good
any maker better then the other
I see a bunch of different companies making that pump

 

I'm running the Airtex brand. Like I said, I personally have been dd'ing 40 miles a day for over a year. I also do long slow trail rides. 3hrs plus. Also a couple of 2-3hr road trips. Never a hiccup. Just don't get any of the low pressure carb pumps. I first tried a pump rated at like 12psi and figured it would work good for my 2psi base + 7psi boost = 9psi fuel pressure. Wouldn't cut it. It was like having a governor set to 70mph. HTH

 

we are going to use this one and t requires a return http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301/overview/

not sure what you have for a reg

link for a good wide band

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4100/overview/

 

MagnaFuel unique cartridge design provides the most stable platform for fuel delivery in the performance industry
Durable metal to metal seat for instantaneous response and low maintenance
Two and four-port configurations available
1/8' NPT gauge ports on all models
Boost-reference models provide a 1:1 compensation ratio
Suitable for drag racing, circle track, road racing, mud bog, power boat, tractor pulling
Adjustable base pressure
Machined from billet aircraft aluminum and anodized for long lasting finish
Precise pressure control

MP-9833-B Large 2-port Boost Reference Regulator 1,600+ 4'“12psi 1 x #10 in, 2x #8 out

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrf-mp-9833-b/overview/

looks like this one ??? says non return

try to mount the reg close to the carb so as boost drops you don't have excessive pressurized fuel volume

 

Yea I see that now thanks
Will do
Took today off of boat waitn for parts

- - - Updated - - -

Yea I see that now thanks
Will do
Took today off of boat waitn for parts

 

I bought this same WBO2 (AEM UEGO) off ebay for $165, I don't remember the dealer......lightning powersports or something, anyway, I love summit but you can usually find better prices with a little shopping around.

 

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some updates
made up the fuel pump block off plate oil return
put decal on boat
brought the down pipe to buddys (sub trailer hitch in Tinley park il) shop to get tig welded
going to make up thur hull water pick up next and brace support for turbo

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Pics of finished downpipe ASAP please

 

yes sir I wanting to see it myself
I did change acouple things on dP
4 of the 7- 1/2" takeoffs in DP i pulled out a bit so they wherent too much in the exhaust flow
ill have pix up a soon as I get it

 

summint is great fast shipping

 

I don't think you really need that many water dump offs into your exhaust. Most marine exhaust elbows have 3 one one top and one on each side. If you look at the outlet of the thermostat housing on the front of the engine which feeds the water to the front of the exh manifold you will see it is only about 3/4 " or less inside the casting. The thermo housing is restricted down to about 3/8 for water flow into the exhaust when the thermo is closed to keep the exhaust cool. When the thermo opens then there is more flow of warm water out from the engine, along with that 3/8 of cold water. The water flow is biased that way so that when the thermostat opens the hot water will be forced out of the engine. The thermostats are usually 160 though the older ones were 140. Do not run without a thermostat! It will disrupt the way the system was designed.

I don't know why you are not running the cold water hose from the outdrive to your heat exchanger then to your thermostat housing. The fresh water pump has plenty of capacity to keep a V8 of double your stock horsepower cold even with 2 exh manifolds. They did not change the size of the impeller for different engines, except the fairly rare 2.3 pump for their overcooling issue. Anyway just start out with a new impeller and you will be fine. I don't really like the idea of using forward motion to move the water through, besides then you have to provide an outlet for that water too. Remember the lake is an infinite heat sink, boats have more overcooling issues than overheating ones. Besides those brass water pickups are pretty spendy, and you have to drill another hole into the bottom of your boat, which could create a leak. I like to keep things simple, less problems.
Just my 2c , Dave, OMC Mastertech

 

thanks for your input
where were you when I started
Monday morning quarter back

well everyone has 1000 way to do the samething
im not sayn all my ideas are great but I think they'll work
I didn't say I was going to use all the
taps they are there incase I do.
I cant reference this is to how many because one one has done it...
I think the water pick up is a great idea wakeboats use the same pick up with no issues
I don't feel like I should have to defend my ideas
maybe its just the way you communicate yours throws me off
cant wait to see your turbo boat project

 

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I ordered a new flapper in stern exhaust and installed it
still waitn on down pipe

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i don't think our boat has a flapper in it ,, not saying u shouldn't run one though

 

got more pix coming
yea don't water possibly coming back into turbo
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any updates??