Flexplate on backwards?

 

Converter built for a mid plate? Personally i'd look at a different flex before shimming the trans if it's the flex.

 

Converter is the same one I was running with my SBC setup and had perfect clearance. I installed the flexplate based off the “engine side” sticker but then also tried flipping it. It definitely got me more clearance but not sure what depth I need off the engine for starter alignment.

 

Do you have a stock 5.3 flexplate laying around?

 

I don’t, I have a guy that might have one I was going to get a hold of. Might do that first, tranny is easy enough to move around even on the ground.

 

Got the other wastegate stub welded in after work, was even able to stretch the old heat wrap and not have to redo it! #ad
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Open to reasons why adding a spacer on the tranny isn’t a good idea. Just looking for an angle maybe I didn’t look at where mechanically it’s not kosher.

 

My thinking is that something isn't right and the spacer would just mask it. So many of us have had no problem matching a SBC trans up to the LS without any spacer that needing one makes me think something is out of sorts.

 

The spacer will pull the pilot back, and some times there isn't a whole lot of engagement to start with. If it doesn't pull it too far out, then it's fine, but like Disney said, it's still a bandaid to fix the issue with the flexplate.

 

I would grind the snout off the converter.

ks

 

Talked to the flexplate company, I did purchase the correct flexplate and it’s a standard 5.3 flexplate with the holes in it intended for a th350 converter is the only difference. It is slightly thicker than factory but not enough that it would get me the 1/8” clearance I need. Trying to get ahold of my converter company, having a billet converter and the mounting flanges look very thick, I wonder if a combination of a thicker flexplate and thicker mounting flanges are what is taking up extra room? I’m also going to measure converter about engagement into the crankshaft and if I have sufficient engagement with 1/8” clearance I’ll run it with a spacer if everything else checks out ok.

 

Just pulled the transmission, on the freshly painted converter snub, I have a half inch of paint missing and checked it while pulling it. So with .125” spacer I would still have 3/8” of converter support into the crankshaft. Seems plenty to me, thoughts?

 

That's plenty. Have you looked at the starter depth into the ring gear, that would be another concern. Also, ring gear to starter body clearance.

 

Good call, that was on my mind but forgot about it. I need to get a starter and check that out.

 

First time putting a hole in my fender... #ad

 

Finally in, and hopefully don’t have to take it back apart for awhile! Definitely a process getting it together in the right steps. Of course even though I tacked it in multiple places and jumped around while welding the wastegate pipes warped. It’s fairly straight on the exit now, but the whole hot side system seems under tension. I’d like to redo it someday after I learn how to tig weld, for now we’ll just see how long the welds hold up and where my first exhaust leak comes from! #ad
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You will still get warping with tig, you either have to build jigs or account for the warping when you setup the weld.

Looks good!

 

Transmission is back in and driveline bolted up, torque converter as well. Spacer worked out well and got me the clearance I needed for the converter and flexplate. It seems with this combo it sits at a different angle, my transmission needed a spacer between the mount and the crossmember. I remeasured pinion angle and it actually is improved now. I didn’t get it close enough when I installed the axle and I feel this caused a vibration at higher speeds. I’m hoping the improved angle eliminates this.

 

Finally cleaned up and painted the crusty alternator bracket. We had some acid for aluminum at work so let it soak in that and did a pretty good job actually! Wasn’t concerned about the surface finish, so let it bubble for a bit haha. Planning on getting a new alternator soon. 2 options are the factory 105 or 145 amp and am thinking the 145 would be better powering ignition and all the extra accessories. #ad
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Votes on valve cover colors

leave it

silver

black

carb will be black and cold piping will be bare aluminum.