With the water pump and the oil drain fitting it definitely cramped up the crank pulley area, I wanted something different anyway and ended up going with the summit truck ls pulley that’s an under drive and 6” diameter. Have nice clearance around everything and looks a better than the factory unit. For alternator mounting I like my accessories low and tucked away, that’s just not an option for this setup I’m realizing since room is tight and all the lower relocation kits put the alternator into my manifold or frame. So I took the factory alternator and power steering pump frame and hacked it up a bit. I’ll clean it up and paint it black, it should look decent when done. Now I’ll have to build a tensioner of some kind that will snake the belt around the water pump and it should be good to go. #ad
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Was bored today and played around with some brackets for an idler and tensioner. If I can’t find the right belt size then it will work. #ad

 

Excellent thread !!!!

 

Nice chains

 

As a guy who builds high performance chainsaw engines for a living, the first thing I noticed was the Cannon bars.

 

Why hello Randy! I’m over on OPE almost daily haha. Thanks for the nice comments guys! The saw thing actually helps fund some of the build as a side gig. Mainly milling and selling live edge slabs.

 

I guess you know who I am then. LOL

 

The infamous renter of pigs! Haha

 

Reported !!!!

 

haha I take it back!! Glad to see you on here, hopefully that means a turbo saw in the works.

 

Not a saw. I bought a 2000 2wd 2nd gen Blazer. The 4.3 has a rod knocking......so I'm thinking twin t4s on a 5.3.

 

Just had a buddy throw one together with a sing or turbo a few months ago. Now he is pulling the tires at the drag strip and taking his buddies for rides. I say go for it!

 

I've got a lot of learning to do. That's why I'm here.

 

You and me both! Seems like a good group that’s is used to beginner questions like we’ll have haha

 

First bracket I built wouldn’t get me the right tension and I was between belt sizes. Built a little longer bracket that holds the idler with 3 options in case a different belt size is needed. It also angled the tensioner setup so it cams over in a better position to take up more slack on the belt. Trimmed the 3rd mounting “ear” off the tensioner as well to slip it under the alternator bracket and was not needed anyway. Now as long as it clears the frame it should work nicely! #ad
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Oil temp and pressure sensors installed. Had to throw the manifolds on to check clearance. Looking promising! Going to get dropped back in real soon. #ad
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Very nice. Did I understand correctly? That is a big block Chevy water pump?

 

Correct. LS engines have 2 inlet and 2 outlets holes for the water, so these adapters let you bolt on a big block water pump for the lower 2 inlet holes. The top 2 outlet holes I’ll be running through a remote mounted thermostat housing before going back to the radiator.

 

Something like this, with a small block/big block water neck on top running the hose back to the top of the radiator. #ad

 

Pushrods showed up! Slapped them in tonight. Using the morel drop in lifters and couldn’t find much for preload on them. I’m witching .010” though with the 7.400” pushrods so close enough. Wanted the thickest pushrod possible and it sounded like the 11/32 would work with a stock head. They clear but I’ll check for wear marks after it’s running for a bit. #ad
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