Took her out for a night cruise around town. First time with the lights on and the headlights are paying respects to the turbo, lights it up quite nicely! #ad

 

Seems to have a fuel leak where the carb bolts to the baseplate. Also seems one wastegate still isn’t opening as I hit boost cut again after I raised my level from 7psi to 9psi. I’ll remove them both and make sure they aren’t stick and test operation with compressed air and a regulator.

 

Are you going to stay blow through carb? Or fully convert to fuel injection.

 

I’ll stay blow through for awhile. As of now I don’t have a reason to change. I’m sure I’ll go efi at some point though.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/7v4M1e6Xkk8?feature=share

working on transferring the old outdated radials.

 

Got the turbo blanket on, heat was radiating pretty good into the front tire so figured should probably take care of that sooner than later. T6 blankets are big units! See if it rubs on my tire at all haha. #ad

 

The blankets seem to work well. I had wrapped all my exhaust the first time but I decided to try running without it this go around. I think it was making my under hood temps worse even though I thought it was supposed to help lol also it made me super itchy and irritated everytime I worked on it.

 

Been awhile, I’m basically in “off season” mode summer and fall with work and hunting. But now is the time through spring to start getting back into the truck again!

Quick update is the tire was rubbing the turbo blanket badly, my front tires started separating from being so old, and I have a little lean condition under full throttle.

As it sits now I have the turbo mounted higher, new front tires and tackling the lean condition next with jet changes to see how it reacts.

 

The front tires started making a bad vibration one day, and while going slowly you could feel a flat spot on them. The next time I took it for a drive I had a death wobble over 35mph, turned around and parked it. Within 45min the left front was completely flat and wouldn’t hold air more than an hour after you fill it up again.

Got new front tires recently and wanted to get the smallest possible to avoid getting any closer to the turbo blanket which was an inch away from the tire. So any bump while turning left caused them to contact each other. Ended up going with 24” tall Mickey Thompson bias ply tires. They definitely float around a little more than the old radials but they’ll work for now. Plan is to upgrade to 17” wheels and 26” tall radials eventually in the future. #ad
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Hey atleast yours runs lol better then most. It seems like I never have an off season but thats what kids do to you I guess. Interesting to hear you say feels like floating around. I didnt go with skinnies on mine because I was worried about that and just for fact if I wanted to daily drive it as well. I do like the look though.

 

Haha off season as in I’m not working 7 days a week June through august! And I do like the look as well, I’m trying to find the happy medium of 99% street but that 1% at the drag strip is also very important! This is just a local cruiser when I feel like it, 10-20 miles at a time then it sits. I’m just happy it’s still running as my last combo didn’t last me more than 2 months before the block and head cracked.

 

Yeah I feel its hard to really walk the fine line between drag or street. I had put a 2o gal fuel cell in mine because I wanted to be able todo longer drives and not stop constantly. Its been a constant battle for me personally and it shows as its why it still dont currently run and drive. I really set a goal to just stick with what I got and try to perfect it before throwing any more parts at it. With the intentions it stays together like you have mentioned with your prior combo lol

 

Had some time off work over Christmas so decided to get the truck in the shop and remount the turbo higher. Using the crane at work instead of me trying to hold up and mock a s475 turbo makes things a lot easier!! I more or less ended up clocking the turbine housing downward to raise the turbo and also move it towards the center of the engine bay more. Then it was cut and reweld pie cuts. Knowing how to tig weld now the finished product much cleaner! I was lucky enough the oil drain line still worked out as well, I only had to modify the cold pipe and extend a plastic 1/4” line for the wastegates off the turbo. Much more comfortable welding thin aluminum this round, and since the angle changed I was able to reuse my existing piping and not have to cut any new inserts to fit. And of course the wastegate pipes fit, until I welded everything up. So it was some slight modifying with those as well, and I ended up cutting back the merge and added a stainless tip out of the fender so it looks a little cleaner.

Now all that’s left is the exhaust, which I have a stainless flange ordered to make a pretty exhaust. The turbo does flex slightly so I’ll be remaking the turbo mount to the frame soon as well. #ad
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I went with a 20gal cell because my buddy was selling it for cheap, now I’m really glad I did! I can go out for a few cruises without even thinking about how much is back there. I’m really trying to stay on top of keeping up and doing what needs to be done this round. Go out and enjoy it spontaneously if the weather allows most times. Sometimes a running/driving setup is all you need to make it fun even if it’s not exactly what you want out of it.

 

Did a quick and dirty turbo mount at work in the lift while it was dry and before the snow hit. Would have liked it to be a little cleaner but it will do. Single mounting bolt/flange welded to a 1” square tube going down and welded to the frame. Good news is I still have plenty of tire clearance! #ad
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Update! Talked to the carb builder and said to remove both front and rear power valves, and remove the plugs installed behind it. I did that and now it definitely is running richer, almost too rich and part throttle but I’m leaner than I’d like to be at WOT. Before it would shoot to 15ish AFR, now it is in the 13’s and I saw a 14 real quick. so better but not to a point I can stay in it. I’m going to try blocking off the high speed air bleeds. They’re .018” so you’d think it may not make a difference, but if it richen a up then at least I saw a change. Could just be jetting but I’ll call the carb builder and see if there anything else I could do besides jetting. Truck is much more responsive and doesn’t hesitate at tip in anymore which is nice!

 

Ever since I moved the turbo over Christmas the old exhaust never lined up to go through the fender. I’ve just been running it out the top above the fender for now. Yesterday I figured it was time to redo this and make a fancy stainless exhaust. Turned out pretty decent, the O2 is definitely tucked away nice. Only downside is welding the interior pie cuts the alignment shifted and the exhaust is touching the trim ring on the exterior of the fender instead of being centered. I’ll probably just use a die grinder and clearance it a little bit so it isn’t rubbing. #ad
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Regarding your carb. You might take a look at your vent tubes. Specifically the primary tube. If its flush or below the line of site looking in the inlet of the hat, it will cause a low pressure in the primary bowl. If thats the case. Just make some sort of vent tube that is taller that stands in the air flow with a 45 cut with facing the inlet.

 

That’s a good point, I’ll look into that. Something is up with the airflow for sure. Fuel pressure raises with boost, but still dropping dead lean after a second of being on the throttle.

 

Do you watch the Street Racing Channel and The Old Man's Garage on YouTube ? Some of the older videos have a lot of info on how they set up their carb when they were blow through. Bowl vent modifications, adjustable boost referenced power valves instead of vacuum referenced PV's etc.