Okay, so moving along, I have the right side strut tower covers on and painted. Although not near as nice as welding them on and doing body work over them, I think they look okay better than leaving the holes imo. So my manual rack spacers finally showed up, such a stupid little part holding up the steering. I installed the flaming river 20-1 manual rack and borgeson steering shaft. Man I had to use up all the slack they give you, wish it was a couple of inches longer but I have it even and solid so it should be good to go.
Then I went to hook up the MM bump steer kit and wouldn’t you know it the spindle needs to have the steering rack ears drilled out to 5/8”!
They say that you have to remove the spindles and drill it out on a milling machine or a drill press with a vice that will keep everything straight. That’s typical, I am going to try this,
Accusize Industrial Tools 5/8'' Cutting Diameter H.S.S. Spiral Flute Aligning Reamer, 1/2'' Shank Diameter.

So I took some pics of the Holley high ram interference with the heads. I cleaned up the surfaces and the wiped everything down with acetone and then used a liberal amount of permatex the right stuff, 90 minutes version. I ran a bead on the China rail and also on the mating surface of the intake and let that set for about 15 minutes and then sat the edelbrock victor efi lower onto the valley and tightened it all up to 10, then 18 ft lbs in the proper sequence. I did manage to set the lower down properly all lined up on the first try no moving so I should be good, I am quite confident that I will have no leaks. Well I am ready to try fitting the engine this afternoon, hoping that it won’t have to be pulled back out to many times.

Good looking engine!

I really wanted to do the high ram. I had planned on doing an over the rad charge pipe but going back to the Edelbrock makes a lot less fab work and hopefully a smaller hole through the hood!

Okay well it was a no go for the drop mounts. Even with the rack on the lowest position the rack touched the pan. So I went with the standard mounts, sucks as I was really thinking I might get most of it under a stock hood or maybe just a small scoop. No I also have an issue with these mounts as the way they are designed you miss half the mounting point on the k member. Take a look at the pics and tell me what you think.
I liked the drop mounts, they were heavy and fit good into the k member. Man I am very tempted to modify the oil pan but I think I will see how everything goes together like this. Oh before i dropped the engine in, I installed a roller pilot bearing into the crankshaft. It is so nice to see an engine in this car again!

Here it is with the upper loosely fitted. That 1.5” drop would be very nice. I am considering getting the oil pan modded or I could try a 1/2” spacer on the engine side of the drop mounts that might be enough clearance.

Gonna need a little cowl on there huh? Looks good!

It looks like it will not take to much of a spacer. I think that would be a lot easier that modifying the oil pan. I would try washers first to see how thick it needs to be. I would a spacer on the K member side would be just as good. You could even make it bigger and bolt it to the other slot.

I'm actually going to try a small spacer on mine when I plop it back in. I don't know what they came from but I found some 2" or so diameter 1/2" thick aluminum pucks with 1/2" holes in the middle.

I ordered a set of 1/2” motor mount spacers on Amazon, supposed to be here on friday. I will just leave things as is until they show up. I have to install the flywheel, clutch and the bell. Then see what I am going to have to do to get that shifter up into this car. The tunnel might not need to much opening up as the hole for the manual trans plate is quite big. I will have to take out the other seat, console and what not to get at it all. Really don’t want to cut it up a lot so hopefully things won’t be to bad. I also have to change out the input shaft in the trans. It will be nice to have that all mounted so I can start in the turbo stuff!

Oh I forgot, I checked out my turbo headers and I need to cut off the fox sway bar mounts. I I was 90% sure that I had to but wanted to confirm before I did. My 88 sport has the sn95 style mount that bolts directly to the bottom of the frame rail. I plan on trying that with this car as it would be nice to have that sway bar on the street. Here is some of the CG fab hot side.

Curious to see how this swaybar bolts up and clears. I really want one on my coyote fox as the PS pump inlet is right there at the mount so I can't use a bar.

MM has a sway bar relocation kit, this is the sn95 one, it will move the bar forward about an inch or so. I was going to try this but it would be easy to make it.
https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Front-Swaybar-Relocation-Kit-1994-04-P442.aspx

This is what you want nxcoupe. This is what I had seen before but posted the wrong one, it is a LMR deal not MM.

I can't stand lmr. That just looks like a factory sn95 sway bar and mounts? Is the stud plate the only thing they made for this kit? Why do the factory plates have to be removed? I've got mine up in the air, I'll get a look see and see what I can figure out. Thanks!

I was thinking that a guy could do the same easy, once I realized my 88 was that way it looked to easy. That car has a short normal mount but on the frame rail. My only concern was if there was enough meat in the frame rail to do this. I know you are not a fan of LMR but they had a video so I posted it. I did a search last summer SN95 front sway bar on a fox but most only talk about the style of the sway bar. I was thinking if you wanted to beef it up a bit you could weld on a plate with the bolts welded to it and you should be good to go. Not sure if you need the bar to move ahead or down lower, but I had planned on trying this to see if it will work first with the 88 sport style mounts which would keep the bar in the same position.

Yes, thank you for posting that. I am thinking the same thing. I really don't want to remove the sway bar perches because it's already painted and I don't see the point.
I'll update on what I end up doing and I'll be followimg your build too. Thanks again.

When I turbo'd my foxbody I used solid blocks of aluminum in between the stock mounts and sway bar to drop it down IIRC 1.5". Made them the same width and length as the mounts and then just drilled 2 through holes. Then all I needed were longer bolts and the shorter end links. Look similar to the MM kit linked above but I didnt move mine forward at all just down.
Just went through my build thread because I could have swore I mentioned it in there but unfortunately I didnt, there are a few pics where you can barely see them.

Thanks Paul, but my issue is the placwmwnt of the ps pump on the coyote puts the large pump inlet right in the middle of the sway bar mounting pad.

shit sorry I somehow missed the part that the actual mount is the issue for Pro-SC and you.