Yes it does. I need to do WAY more research on how to read a fuel table and adjust the AFR.

 

When you set up your project in tuner studio did you select "incorporate afr table"?

 

Knowing my luck I probably didn't. Ill try that this evening.

 

If you selected incorporate afr table, then adjusting the actual target afr table will change the running afr of the engine. If you did not, all the afr table is used for is wideband correction and ve analyzer/RT tuning.
Either way you still need to sort out the VE table so the airflow model is accurate and your target afr matches your commanded afr.
The nice thing about incorporating afr is after you get a ve table that is accurate and tuned for the engines airflow use, changing afr is as easy as changing the target afr table. It also makes the VE table act more like a strait VE table should in that it no longer has any correction ground in to the table to get a target AFR. The program looks at running conditions, finds the cell/cells in its lookup tables that represent those conditions, then takes the VE value from that table and runs it through the formula to determine the amount of air going into the engine. After it knows airflow it takes the target afr from the table and the characteristics in the fuel system to determine how long to open the injectors to arrive at that target AFR. If running closed loop wideband control this is the point where feedback from the sensor is used to trim the calculated pulse width to correct for any inaccuracy in the fuel calculation or any slew caused by the fuel delivery hardware. (clogged/dirty injectors, variations in fuel alcohol content, fuel pressure changes ect)
So if you incorporated it then you need to make sure your target afr table is realistic. Most of mine idle around 13.8-14, cruise at about 15, moderate throttle and light boost around 12.5 and above a few pounds run around 11.5 depending on what i'm doing.
If you do not incorporate afr and you are not going to use VE analyzer or have no intention of running closed loop afr control, then this table has no impact on the running afr of the engine and all the fuel calculations come directly from the VE table itself with any change in afr being derived from the "calculated VE" value from the table and any corrections for density and temp. In this regard the VE table is not really a VE table exactly as it is no longer representative of the engine exact VE but its a hodge podge of the engines ve with a "correction" the tuner/operator has blended in to come up with whatever the target AFR is.

 

Ill be honest... This is all still a little over my head. I have only been able to start the truck a few times and with the lower AFR I have been nervous about running it for very long to mess with the tuning. I have made some really good progress on all my cold side stuff so I will feel a little more comfortable once its all complete. I did talk to a local company called ABEL Racing about doing a dyno tune and they quoted me 700 dollars for a custom tune. My neighbor took his hellcat there and they did amazing work after some place in Florida called Forza botched the tune. I just have two small pipes to hook up on the intercooler then I need to order my drive shaft. Hopefully it will be done this month.

 

#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad



So here is my latest progress. I got the WOT switch mounted on the throttle body for the TH400, I have most of the cold side done minus 2 shot little 45's that will be in sometime next week, Got the BOV mounted and the intercooler supports done.

 

#ad
#ad


Cold side is finished. Now to start on the exhaust and get measurements for the driveshaft.

 

Looking good. I can't wait to go single turbo.

 

I agree it does look good. Its coming along nicely. Well done.

 

Thanks for the kind words.

Does anyone have any recommendations on drive shaft construction? I have Strange 1350 yokes for the transmission and pinion shaft. I have looked online at some driveshaft companies and seen some pretty bad reviews on some of the big name companies. I was just going to go to a local driveshaft shop and tell them what I wanted made but no clue on what material or thickness to use.

 

I'd go 4" if you have the floor board and chassis clearance for it. Wall thickness would be fine at either of the two common dimensions of .083 or .120. that most driveshaft shops have on hand.

 

#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
Made a little more progress on the truck this past week.

Got the exhaust done and buttoned up a few loose ends. I got my drive shaft in from UPS yesterday so once that is in and I hook up the trans linkage its ready to go. Well minus the AC delete panel that I ordered, it should arrive the 12th.

I am still really on the fence about the tuning. I talked to a guy at Abel Racing here in Oklahoma and he will completely tune the truck for $700.00. Do you guys think I should go that route or try to tune it myself. I have a good base tune from EFI source so It shouldn't need to much tweaking. I mainly have to get the idle figure out and the AFR's stable. Anyone willing to help walk me through it lol?

I would like to say thank you to all of the people who have chimed in and helped me so far. I still have a lot to learn though and this EFI stuff has me nervous after my last experience with the FiTech.

 

First off, nice work. Really looks sharp. Secondly, don’t be intimadted by the whole EFI thing. Instead of changing jets and spilling fuel all over or twisting the distributor and changing springs and weights, you’re pressing keys on a keyboard. Same “rules” apply as they did with a carb. If it’s rich, lean it out! If it needs more timing, put a couple degrees in. To tune a car with a laptop in your lap while someone else drives is the best IMO. Can’t change jets with the car running or twist the distributor going down the street, but with the laptop all the changes are at your fingertips. I have no experience with your system, but my vote is to give it a shot. My carb days are over, no doubt. Just take your time and don’t get greedy. Give the car what it wants to run correctly and read the plugs. You’ll be fine and amazed at how simple it is once you get a handle on it. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

You can tune it yourself and get it 99% there. Then take it to the dyno and get your power tuning done. most of the time you will be at idle, or low loads and most tuners don't tune that, they tune on the dyno and max power and ship it leaving you with a car/truck that doesn't start well, idle well, drive well, but makes power.

 

That is a really good point. I hadn't thought about that. Guess I better start watching Youtube videos on the tuning.

 

Thank you!

 

Sweet squarebody, I’m definitely in for updates on this one.

 

+1

 

Got the truck started. Now I have more questions than before.

 

So here are a few of my questions.

1. The E85 fuel correction is at 100%. I do not have an E85 content sensor and I feel like this should be at 0% but I cant for the life of me find where to turn it off.

2. My wide band is a AEM 30-4110 AFR 52mm UEGO. Im running super rich. Rich enough that I am getting fuel shooting out of the exhaust and fuel in the oil. I have the wideband as pictured below since the one I have is not in the drop down menu.

#ad


3. My map sensor is readying 160 kpa (8psi), at idle and 250kpa (21 psi) key on engine off? Is something set wrong? I fell like it shouldn't be that high. Especially at idle.

Any help would be much appreciated (If you see anything else that im missing please let me know)

Colt