So i just scribed around the pilot. From the flat forward surface of the pilot to the scribe line is 0.20".


Also the digital caliper reads .322" from the flexplate to the mounting pad. How far can I pull the converter forward without worrying about the pump?

If I can just use a spacer to get the distance from the pad to the flexplate to .187" (.135" spacer) I should be in the clear according to the directions. Then I'll slide the converter out .187 and I should have plenty of the pilot in the crank.



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That spacing is not a th350/th400 to ls1 convertor thats a standard convertor spacing for a sbc. Mine is exactly the same gap without the spacer made for a th350 to sbc. I just checked, so im 100% sure on my gap. My convertor is a 10" 3800stall from summit my buddys running the same one on his ls1 mustang with nitrous and having great results. I dont know the differnce between your flexplate and a std 5.3 dished which is what i have on while im doing mock up. I'll be doing the 6.0/spacer/bolts on mine.

 

makes since, I went ahead and milled out my short turn exhaust and opened the port to match gasket I think on a forced induction car getting the air volume out quicker will be a little better for what im planning on doing.

 

I split the diff with a .20" grade 8 washer. Ended up with .122 or so. Dusty from PTC wrote me back and said as long as it's between .060" and .187" I should be good. Pilot is in a good .040 now.

Engine and trans are in and pinned. Need to pull the oil pan one more time to finish the turbo drain and it will be pinned for good.

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Progress!!!

 

Threw my specs into a quick static/dynamic/compression calculator. not 100% sure on the CC dish on the pistons. I seem to get differnet answers. One source said he actually filled the dish up with a syringe. Thats where I got the 9cc from.

So with the thicker ls9 head gasket, dished psitons, 317 heads, and ZR1 cam I'm looking at a whopping 7:1 dynamic compression ratio. Should be boost friendly! Maybe even pump gas friendly...


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Fuel cell is mounted. Safety vent installed with -8 return. Fuel pump mounted, lines ran. 1/2" SS hard lines along the length of the body. -8 braided for the rest. Regulator mounted.


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Finishing up wiring... And quarter stick shifter installed.


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WG dump tube finished.


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Turbo drain done. 3/4" ID silicone tubing.


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Mechanical guage for coolant temp ghetto rig....


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Nice work so far. You might reconsider using silicone for the oil drain hose, it is not very compatible with engine oil.

 

I thought since Oil pan/intake gaskets are made from silicone rubber I’d be set. I was looking mainly at the higher operating temperature of silicone when I decided to use it. Did a quick google search and your right. It’s not very compatible with any hydro carbons in oil or fuel. I believe the inside of the hose may not be 100% silicone. It’s orange and harder. I’ve had a similar setup on the daily driver for about 3 years now. May need to rethink that setup as well. Thank you!

 

Looking great man. I need to update my thread sometime soon, im slacking.

 

Weather has been holding me back. 15 inches of snow last week and an expected 9-15 on top of that projected for tomorrow.

Did get a few things done.
Decided to go with the 925 Odyssey battery. (22lbs) Didn't have alot of room left under the hood and I wanted the battery up front so I didn't have to deal with the battery boxes shutoff switches and 12ft of battery cable. Removed the charging lugs on the rear bumper and all the old wiring etc for the rear mounted battery.


Welded up a little angle iron mount and test fit the hood. Plenty of clearance. also wired up the alternator charge cable (2g) and ground wire. Got the upper and lower radiator hoses, steam vent, throttle cable, and IAT sensor done. Went with the cheapo "golden rod" filter again. Installed and finished up the fuel return. Fuel plumbing is done.




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Super expensive engine pre-luber. We've got oil pressure. Hope to start it this weekend. Had a pinhole in a raidator inlet ,set me back a few days.


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Still don't have a shop heater and fighting snow and cold weather in KS... but It lives!

Horrible video I know. I'll get something better up soon.

It's kinda nutty but this video was taken with the fuel pump completely off. There is no check valve in the system. The large amount of vacuum and the huge injectors are pulling fuel from the tank all by themselves. Makes me think I have leaky injectors or something. I did pressure test all the injectors with fuel injector cleaner before installing with the same ghetto coke bottle rig U used as a pre-oiler.

 

Trans is out at a shop. I guess it was put together incorrectly. So I'm glad it leaked! Should have it back by friday.


Rear main seal replaced, and test ran the engine, no leaks there.
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Third member is out. Confirmed it has the beefy 35 spline axles in it. Also bought some 3.10 "Ex nascar" gears. They have been lightened and polished.




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Ordered up some cheapo rubber isolators for the fuel pump mount. Made a HUGE difference. Pumps still too loud for a daily driver but I'd say it cut the noise in half. These are pretty soft rubber though, I'm a little nervous they may not last long back there. You can see in the video the fuel pump moves quite a bit.


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Trans and driveshaft are back in with no leaks.


Got the 3.10 "nascar" gears installed. ($130)


They are polished and lightened.








Ended up with this Derale dual core trans cooler. 10x14.5. ($72 shipped) Tack welded an old grand national intercooler fan I had to it. Mounted it in the back.
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Went to town on some wiring... Center console has hinges on the bottom and swings out for access. WB02, trans temp, trans brake, fuel pump, Rad and trans fan, and rear brake lights and turn signals all done.










Used a cheap harbor freight aluminum air tool splitter for a vacuum block.





Very boring video of a turn signal. Used a golf cart universal signal kit.



Turbo blanket and oil line shielding

 

Started the exhaust system. The MaxFlow 4" Hooker muffler I ordered was just to big to fit anywhere. (if anyone wants one of these let me know) I had some new 2.5" glass packs laying around the shop and wedged it up into the 4" downpipe. It quieted down the exhaust a ton. So I decided to go with it. Just welded around the body of the muffler.


It's a nice quiet tone for sure, but I'm sure it's really restrictive. I'll end up with some sort of electric cutout or possibly try out the "WG cutout" idea I had. I figure I could toss a 60mm gate on like so that will open under boost. Hoping between the 2.5" muffler and the cutout it will be able to breath. I could always throw a 3" cutout on it as well. opinions?

 

Looking good. I'm following this build because I literally have the exact (5.3, 317s, ZR1 cam, s475) setup and I think yours will be running before mine.

I think you would benefit from a cutout or wastegate in the exhaust. You could put a spare boost gauge in the exhaust to see how much back pressure the muffler is making. Mine has a 5-4" cone and a couple 4" 45* bends with no muffler, well see how loud it is.

 

60mm Wastegate/exhaust dump came in today. It's garbage right out of the box. Diaphragm is torn. You'd think this would be tested prior to leaving the recycled WOK factory. Ah well....

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Where did it come from? I have had good luck with gates from this seller: http://myworld.ebay.com/wyntonm

But it looks like the largest they have is a 44mm