Re: 1979 RX7 LS1 + S400SX3 (75mm)

Managed to blow the HG on the daily so I only made a tiny bit of progress. Got the 1" radiator outlets cutout and went with 1.5 and 1.25 to match the LS water pump. Also found out the raditor is a tripple-pass 3 row when I cut into the tanks. Hope it can keep up with the little 5.3!

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Re: 1979 RX7 LS1 + S400SX3 (75mm)

How does the coolant flow? Its a dual pass?

 

Re: 1979 RX7 LS1 + S400SX3 (75mm)

It's actually a tripple pass 3 row, 4.5" core according to the friend that welded it up for me. Flows Like so....


May be a good thing? Or may be to restrictive and not flow enough. Sounds like a more efficient design in the AD here. I wasn't familiar with them until now.
http://www.daymotorsports.com/proddisp.php?ln=18830

 

Re: 1979 RX7 LS1 + S400SX3 (75mm)

Ok, that makes sense, thanks.

 

Pulled the motor apart a bit to inspect things. Glad I did. This "Ran great when pulled" engine had two broken pistons. All the bearings looked good, other rods/pistons all check out as well. So... in the junkyard spirit of this build I bought 2 used piston/ rod assemblies for $25. Did a quick hone on the 2 bad cylinders as well.

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Cleaned things up a bit and threw the ZR1 cam in. All the roller lifters looked good, gonna run them "as is" too. Got the new LS3 style cam gear with pick up installed. Going to run a LS3 style timing cover with cam pick up on the front.

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Is the crank 24x or 58x?

 

It's a 24. I need the 2005 cam pulley that is 1 tooth. I ordered a new timing set... "C" in the pic.

 

Made a little progress. My 2 piston/rod assemblies showed up. $20 well spent.

Cleaned all the pistons up and re-gapped all the rings to .025 on the top and .030ish on the bottom. Torqued all the mains with the angle gauge. Ordered the LS6 rod bolts.


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Installed the new correct cam gear and chain.

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Made a little progress.

Cleaned and did a quick port job on the 317 (6.0) heads. Took the hump down in the intake runner,cleaned up the bowls, port matched the lower half of the exhaust port and trimmed down the valve guides.

New PAC1218 springs installed. These heads were run by a friend last year. Carb'd E85 setup. You can see the black tar goo all around the intake valves and ports. Hope to get the long block put together this weekend.

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Long block is pretty much together...


LS2 Timing cover w FWD cam pick-up is done.
ARP stud kit and LS9 7 layer MLS Hg's are all in and torqued.
Turbo oil supply done.
Waiting on drill/tap set to finish up oil pan drain.


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looks great! I have my engine tore down right now ready to go to the machine shop.

 

Had some crazy unseasonable warm weather in KS today. (72*) Pressure cleaned and painted the engine bay.


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LOVE the looks of this generation. I almost got one from a friend for a song.. Wish I had

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Drilled and tapped the block for the F-body alternator mount.
mounted manifolds.
Installed balancer.
Got the belt routing and size figured out. Just waiting on an idler pulley to finish that.
Coilpacks and plugs done
120lb Fuel injectors installed
Aem EMS assembled.

Tapped the heater plugs for the water pump. Also drilled/tapped a 1/8t hole on the low side of the thermo housing for the steam port return. Just waiting on the plugs/fittings.

Had to drop the driver side coilpacks about 2" to clear the -8 fuel fitting I installed. Worked out well, I was able to use the f-body spark plug wires I had after lowering the coils.

Going to use LT1 plug set on the passenger side.




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Random inter-cooler shot. (31x12x4)

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i like it!

 

looks great man i might have to make a trip up there this spring to the track if you have it ready with my nova, hopefully it'll be going by then. I have a question on the heads exhaust port I cut mine out round on the bottom to match the gasket is there a reason you made the d shape?

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if you could lmk a little more info on the fbody alt mount and what alt that is im looking for something low pro like that for mine.

 

The “D” is there to improve flow. It depends on the ports “exit distance” from the short turn curve in the head. Shorter distances (like the LS heads) do best with a D-shape. The “D” insures a flat floor, which minimizes pinch of flow as air turns in the port. From what I’ve read “gasket matching” the exh ports to a circle slows the FPS down below optimal levels.

 

Re-did my crossover for more ground clearance. Painted/wrapped it. Triple wrapped it under the converter area.


Wrapped passenger header. Made a heat shield for plugs.


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Wrapped starter.


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Cheap ass SFI flexplate I bought came with "grade 8" bolts that immediately stripped out when I tried to torque them. Ended up buying ARP flexplate bolts.
Luckily just the cheap bolts were chewed up and not the crank threads.


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My "direct bolt-in" converter has some spacing issues. Not sure what I'll end up doing with this mess.


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I'd be willing to bet that gap is about .400" You might need a 6.0 flex plate and spacer.