No,( I suck at TIG welding) a friend cut apart an non EGR N42 intake ported it and had it welded back together. It was then ceramic coated inside and out. The 6 extra injector bungs and fuel rail were put together in steps so everything fits. I couldn`t be happier with how everything has turned out.

 

a friend with a welder is a friend indeed, or however that goes

 

Got the new motor fired up a couple of days ago, the engine will be broken in on the gasoline system. Once the motor is ready the AEM injector driver will be wired to the E85 injectors and street tuned before heading to the dyno. Then plumbing the nitrous lines which should be a pretty fair PITA around the E85 fuel rail.

 

The car has rough tune on the AEM EMS and is running on the 87 oct. fuel system until the motor is broken in. The smaller 240cc injectors definitely make a difference in idle quaility being able to maintain 14.8-14.7 in a warm idle condition. I need to sit down with my EFI guru and figure out which injector drivers from the AEM EMS should trigger the AEM injector driver and what configuration of drivers should be used ( there are "only" 10).

Once the injector driver and the E85 fuel system has a "street" tune the car will get some dyno time at Church's Automotive Testing to finalise the tune. I still have to figure out if I want to plumb the nitrous before taking it to the dyno or just "street" tuning it as it is just a full throttle tune and shouldn`t be more than a 50-60 hp shot.

http://home.earthlink.net/~spchurch/churchautomotivetesting/index.html

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=83


The dual 044 Bosch pumps -8 feed lines from the fuel cell to -6 lines out of the pumps into a -6 to -10 "Y" fitting then a Aeromotive -10 filter , then -10 hose to the fuel rail.



The E85 fuel cell with -8 return.




The E85 fuel rail is center fed by a -10 line and uses two -6 returns to the regulator.





The two -6 returns from the E85 fuel rail supply two intake mounted Bosch 1600cc injectors before the regulator, which uses a -8 fuel line back to the fuel cell.




That's just the E85 side of things, the nitrous hard lines should really be fun.

 

Nice

 

Vern at Raver Motorsports setup the AEM EMS to activate the secondary injector control ,after a bit of street tuning the car is boosting to the 12.5 psi wastegate spring. The car feels stupid fast with the E85 , according to the datalogg everything checks out OK. Next it will be heading to the dyno to finalise the high boost tune and plumbing and tuning the nitrous (should be a minor/ major) PITA





The 14 injectors

 

Any updates?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Matt

 

Just that I am revising some wiring and getting very close to going to the dyno.

 

Nice! What you thinkin itll lay down power wise?
Matt

 

thats gonna be sick once yuou get it tuned in

 

The goal is 500rwh on E85 and 600 rwh with a 100 shot.

A pic of the nitrous plumbing

 

I had a Total Seal $%&^* ring break in my motor and the rings prematurely wear the other cyl,the 3 liter stroker was pulled out of the car. A temp solution was found by way of a recently rebuilt $200 NA L28e motor from Craigslist, the car was recently tuned to 8 psi with the T67 and using E85 as fuel under boost. The car feels pretty quick esp considering the bone stock L28. On the plus side the pistons are still OK, but another block will have to be race prepped(to the tune of about $600 worth of machine work) and I just did some sidework so I now have the cash.



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I am currently using a Chevy LT1 electric smog pump modified to be used as a vacuum pump,it works great but needs to stay on for a few seconds after boost to help evacuate excess crankcase pressure. This is a circut made to do just that.

https://www.youtube.c...h?v=SKUrM0dwXao

 

After trying several possible solutions to keep oil smoke from coming out the exhaust after boost (the ONLY time the car smokes oil is right after boost). The problem was that the motor was built using very low tension oil control rings to help the motor spin up easier .The crankcase is vented with one 5/8 hose out of the block and another out of the valve cover into an aircraft style air/oil seperator which has an oil drain back to the pan.

The motor is a Nissan L 28 bored/stroked to 3 liters forged piston, Cunningham rods, with a T04S T67 / T3 ball bearing turbo with a oil restrictor and a 7/8" drain back to the pan , so the drain and the restrictor were not the problem. It was suggested to me from a friend who has to use a electric smog pump from a mid 90`s LT1 F body modified to act like a vacuum pump.The pump is activated with the supplimental fuel pumpcontrol (thanks AEM) for the ethanol side of the fuel system on the car which activates after 2k rpm and 40% throttle.A circut is being contructed to allow the pump to operate for 5 seconds after boost.

http://www.turbobuic...g-pump-how.html


The car is smoother at rpm under boost and smoke after boost is not as noticable, this should be be better when the pump is allowed to stay on after boost.




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I posted previously that I was hoping for 30 mpg with a 3 liter Lseries stroker using an AEM EMS with full sequential injection and using a dual fuel gasoline /E85 setup. The primary(gasoline) injectors are Honda 240cc units when under boost the fuel is switched to E85 using 6 1600cc injectors and 2 380cc injectors. The results after 500 highway miles was 31 mpg , it should be mentioned that the transmission is a T56 six speed with a .75 and a .50 overdrive the engine turns only 2100 rpm at 70 mph. The motor used is a bone stock N/A N42 , the built 3 liter will probably suffer a slight mileage penalty. I was pleasantly suprised, I did use almost 2 gallons of E85, but that was only under boost and not regular (or legal) highway speeds.



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Nice, so where is the dyno with the boost turned up?

 

I was hooking up an USB extention on the desktop and used a thumb drive to check the connection and came across these dyno sheets. It adds some motivations to get the "built" 3 liter back in the car and to pull the turbo( to be rebuilt) this weekend.



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any chance you could "push" the na engine? it would be nice to know if it could take 3-400hp.

 

First, the plan is to install an oil catch resevoir under the turbo and pump the oil back into the engine with a stock L series mechanical fuel pump, hopefully this will help with smoking issues with the turbo . There is now a small amount of oil in the intake tract and I don't want to detonate from oil contamination. If pumping the oil back into the engine works, the plan is to raise the boost to 9.5 psi which should be right around 300 rwh.


https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=132484.0

 

Nice job. Keep up the good work.

 

Well, I detonated from oil contamination (shouldn't have pushed it so hard with oil in the intake tract). But, the turbo will be sent back to Precsion for new oil seals , the bb cartridge has no play but the turbo was smoking BAD. I lost #4 cyl , thankfully a friend is giving me a set of stock turbo pistons and rods so, the rebuild will cost about 100 bucks unless the head is hurt. It will also reduce the compression to around 8.0 to 1 so once the turbo is back I want to raise the boost.