Looks fantastic. Nice job! Always happy to see another one hit the road and get some miles on it. Nicely done.

 

Well, I switched it over to e85 and I'm very happy with the change. I still have a very rich tip in before boost that I'm trying to figure out. I also put a heavier spring in the BOV, it was always open at idle and if I was into boost, the psi would jump to 7 and drop to 5. After the spring change, psi stays solid at 7 and over all feels better. I've put probably 400 miles on it so far. There is 2 gas stations near my work that sells e85 but nothing close at home. It's about 13 miles to the closest station, so I now have a 55 gallon drum at home.

 

If u want to stretch that drum out u can mix your own e50. Basically has all the benefit octane wise as e85. Easier on fuel system requirements, better mileage, no e85 "gunk" build up on injectors or motor. I run e50-e60 with no intercooler at 15lbs, Been as high as 20 with no issues.

 

That's interesting, in my searching around for info, I came across someone else saying that but no real info supporting it. I don't think I'll be running much more than 15psi. Thanks for the info.

I've got 80lb deka injectors and just bought a set of 150lb they will be here soon.

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I drove the car to work for the first time and was able to put it on a lift for the first time. Everything I did on the car was at home on the floor. Standing underneath, from different angles, I had a few WTF moments. Things look a little different when standing looking up at it, lol.

 

Theres an independant study done by delphi if you google it. They tested the antiknock properties of e85 and e50.

Basically the exact same @ 50% and over.

Ive got baby t3 gt35s. U should be just fine with the larger turbos. I run 80s as well. Im out of fuel at 5200 or so at 20lbs. I leave it at 14lbs and im in the 90s duty cycle wise arpund 6800.

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I've been busy but here's a little news.

I've been fighting a few things with the car. One was a bad rich tip in before boost and I upped the boost from 7 psi to 10 psi, kinda hoping the stumble would get better, with the added volume of air. But it didn't and at 10 psi I uncovered another problem. Apparently the added pressure would make the map sensor give false readings, it would show that a idle that it had 39.5 inches of vacuum. If I shut the car off and let the computer time out, it would read normal until it saw 10 psi again. So I bought another map sensor and it didn't change. I called Fitech and they had an update that they sent me. My 1500cc injectors also showed up, so I did the update and injectors at the same time. Holy freaking cow, I've got a totally different car now. Stumble is gone, map sensor reads right and it's making 11.5 psi without me touching the boost settings. It just knocks the tires off of it at will. If I load the car on the trans brake and see 2-3 psi,it will leave without spinning and ride out 30 feet or so before it blows the tires off. I also hooked up my electric shifter so all I have to do is hold on.

 

Are you able to do boost control with the FiTech? If so, datalog a pass and see where it falls off the tire and flatten the boost curve for about a second or second and a half. I had to do the same thing on my Nova. I have the Holley system and needed to flatten out the boost curve to keep it hooked. Works like a charm. After it gets past the problem spot, I can throw as much boost at it as I can. Every car is different, but it’s worth a shot.

 

The Fitech doesn't have a way to control boost. I guess I need to look into a controller sooner than I thought.

 

It’ll make the car much more enjoyable IMO. Blazing the tires at will is fun the first few times, but...............!

 

When on your transbrake, are you just going up against TC stall, or do you have some 2 step integrated into your setup?

 

Just up on the converter for now. 2 step will be next.

 

What 2 step do you think you'll be using?
I'm running the Fitech 1200 right now with MSD 6ls on 5.3 and works good.
I would like to change over to the ultimate ls setup but can't figure out to set up different 2step launches @ strip.
Fitech ecu don't have 2step config.
Don't know how or what else there is to hook up to engine if Fitech system has everything plugged in!
Thanks

 

I just ordered the MSD 8733 2 step. On my setup I'll have to disable the fuel learn while on the 2 step, kinda throws the Fitech in a fit.

Do you have a trans brake or just loading it up on the converter?

 

Yes, I have a transbrake, can set my MSD 6014 box at any RPM at the launch.
The Fitech 1200 is only for fuel, msd 6014 is for ignition.
Now how are you going to hook that(msd8733) into your setup if the Fitech has everything already plugged in. (Coil packs, crank tripper, cam sensor)?
Am I missing something here?

 

Pretty simple the msd work in line with the system

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Oh alrighty! I see what you mean...
Keep me posted on this build! You're doing a great job.

 

Love your build. I had 72 lb injectors on my 323ci Mopar running 100% ethanol and was maxing out 100% DC at 5500 rpm and around 13psi. I switched over to 160 lb injectors and swapped out one of the Bosch fuel pumps for a Fuelab 42402 Prodigy pump. I have twin 71mm's.

I was curious as to how your car would stay cool with that size radiator and was quite surprised to read later on that it was doing fine. I have an aluminium Griffin radiator that is 3" thick and roughly about the same size as your's, but my temps rise to about 220 when in stop and go traffic. Highway cruising it will still be around 200. Would the all aluminium block make that much of a difference in your car? My block is cast iron. Has aluminium heads though.

I agree on the over the radiator charge pipe. Looks awesome. Great choice also on reusing the backs of the original tubs.

 

Thanks

I knew the 80s weren't going to be enough injector. As far as my cooling... I'm very muched surprised my self. It's a small double pass cheap radiator, the fan is a factory jeep liberty 3.7 unit. Everything for the exhaust is coated and wrapped plus the blankets. The radiator is snug enough that I probably don't need a radiator mount. I'm sure the block helps. I have painted panels to fill the old shock tower holes but I'm scared to box in the heat, especially since the hood is solid. I thought the swap to E85 might cool it down some but it hasn't.

 

Yeah, don't box in too much. I think that's the problem I'm having. I have enough frontal area to cool the radiator while driving and I have two puller fans behind the radiator and one pusher in front of it to keep it cool while standing still, but it seems as if the hot air has nowhere to go. I've considered adding louvres or something to the hood to let the heat escape. Idling with the hood open is no problem at all. Temps stay at around 180 then.

I have blankets on the turbines and the downpipes are wrapped, but I have SS headers which don't have any wrap or coating. The stainless steel header pipes are 3mm thick. I made them myself.

 

FYI - FITECH has a 2-step firmware/software upgrade avail. Just requires a flash of the ECU and the handheld. It's a spark cut type 2 step and is programmable. Contact Fitech for the software.