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1/4 mile times need info

Discussion in 'Carburetor + Boost Tech Questions' started by allmotor65stang, Jan 20, 2007.

  1. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    well its an a1000 with 1/2'' line..
    what about the jet extension tho..
    Also what would it do if i change the front or rear hs air bleeds in my carb..do i chage the rear or the front ..and do i go bigger or smaller..i think i go smaller..
     
  2. OLDHEAD

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2006
    BECAREFUL OR YOU WILL HAVE A MELTDOWN.....You said 18 total,taking 2 Deg's per lb...That 8 degs TOTAl.....I did not know it would even run like that......I would try a good racegas and try 18 degs and if it runs better go up 2 at a time,But not more then 28 or so Now my sbc has been to the dyno and tryied 28,30 and 32(best) but this is 8 to 1 , 21 1/2 boost and 1004 HP.THE EAZYEST WAY TO KILL IT IS WITH FUEL PROBLEMS,Do not run it untill it is right...... :) :) :) :)OLDHEAD
     
  3. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    int timming is 18 and then 2* retrad for ever lb of boost..
     
  4. jt351

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2005
    He did not say 18 total, he has it set at 18 and it has advance, but he does not know how much, he mentioned the biggest bushing and so and so color spring, dunno what that equates to but he should find out tho. And As far as HS air bleeds go, you need to reduce them, If after reducing them it does not get any better than more than likely it is a fuel delivery problem not carb or possibly needle and seat not flowing enough. But I would at least try the jet extensions first since it seemed to have been fine on the dyno correct?
     
  5. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    well thats the thing on the dyno it showed it went lean but when i pulled plugs they looked ok not lean thay had color to them..it was a dark brown look..when i had my allmotor setup it went lean on the dyno to..

    ALLMOTOR SETUP
    i dont get it..
    stock fuel line 5/16 with holley red pump.i ran a 11.5 at 119 FINE ON THE DYNO
    upgrade to a fuel sump holley blue pump and 1/2''line.i ran a 12.00 at 115 LEAN ON THE DYNO

    NOVI 1000 SETUP
    A1000 PUMP 1/2''line aeromitve regulator i run A 11.3 at 121 best mph was 122.. LEAN ON THE DYNO


    THATS THE REGULATOR IM USEING
    http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=AEI-13301&N=700 400300 115&autoview=sku

    thats another post about my car going lean.

    https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=73618.0
     
  6. Mike Gager

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2006
    well some could argue that the 1/2" lines are too small. most recommend -10 lines for blow through applications with the A1000

    just a thought
     
  7. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    well i dont think its the 1/2'' line because how can i go from stock size to 1/2'' line and go 5mph slower on my all motor setup..

    amd with my novi1000 im still going lean top end.. :bang:
     
  8. nova

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2004
    i say loose the regulator for a 132-02 or a PE deadhead, these are the only 2 regs i have seen used with good success and lock your timing, its going to stop you from doing this :bang:

    i used a 850 annular might demon on my bbc for a while at 9psi as soon as i made a 1 step smaller pulley change it no longer supported the fuel demands no matter what jet or air bleed i put in. i dont know, just food for thought...
     
  9. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    i just talked to some people and they said i need to run a vent for the tank..good idea
     
  10. boner

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2007
     
  11. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    would that even help out...
     
  12. jt351

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2005
    Are you saying a -10 all the way from pump to carb as -10 isn't that a 5/8 inner diameter, that is insane, that's like moving an additional 3 gallons of fuel, he doesn't have a 8 second 1000 hp car. Hell I am running an intake 190lph pump and a 3/8 line and it supports my blowthrough making well more than 500rwhp and a 11.5:1 afr. But I can definately see making sure you have a big enough supply line to the pump and close to the tank and lower than the fuel level or it can cavitate because the pump just sucks that good,and I mean that in a good way.
     
  13. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    ok so back to the hs air bleeds should i change the front or the rear...whats the differents..
     
  14. jt351

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2005
    Reducing HS air bleeds is like adding larger jets except it does more, it affects the afr curve. Imagine adding larger jets it will move the afr ratio rich across the board while reducing hs air bleeds will richen the mix up top making the afr curve more aggressive. My setup I only have the primary hs reduced but that is my setup, I am rich enough with 90 in the rear so I did not touch the rear. It all depends on driveability, and what rpm and throttle agle its lean or rich at, for example if it is rich at part throttle and lean at wot than I would reduce main jet and hs air bleeds at same time, If it is fine in part throttle and lean up top then I would just reduce hs air bleed.Since your carb has removeable air bleeds have fun and learn, worst thing you could do is foul a plug, just gradual changes at a time. I think I started out at 32 thousanths and then went to 30, then 28, then 26. But boost levels, boster designs volumetric effeciencies all effect needs and effect of air bleed changes.
     
  15. 79Sleeper

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2003
    allmotor,
    Imo, you need to eliminate variables and go back to the basics. First, lock-out your distributor so there is no mechanical advance and no vacuum advance. Set it at 16*-20* depending on what gas your running, and disconnect the boost retard. In my experience your motor is just not going to run good with less than 18* total timing above 4500 rpm's, but with your high compression your going to have to start low. Also, to help with detonation, you did lower your plug heat range ~2 ranges cooler from your NA plugs? Secondly, you need to either watch or log your Fuel pressure at the carb at WOT in high gear during a full run. Without knowing that your fuel pressure is where it should be, all this buying regulators, changing air bleeds, etc... is useless.

    This is what I would do in your situation anyways. Good Luck.

    Troy
     
  16. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    well yes im 2 heat ranges colder.. well im going back to stage 1 and go from there..
     
  17. Mike Gager

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2006
    yep thats what im saying. sounds really big to me to but everyone here i asked recommended -10 on both the feed and return with the A1000 pump. do a search!
     
  18. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    ok well i went over everthing on my car that has to do with the fuel system..well what i did was put 72 jet in front and 95 in rear and with the HS air bleeds i got some that u have to drill to size and what i did was just put that size in there not sure what size they come at..now my ARF is around 12-12.5 a hell of a lot better..also put some jet extension on also..

    but befor all that my AFR jumped to as high as 16..
    now its at 12-12.5...HS air bleeds in the rear...now how can i lean the front out because at cruse its AFR 11-11.7 VERRY RICH idle is at 13 AFR...



    http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?p=30484#post30484

    there is a log of 1 of my 3 gear run up the street..
    70 and 95 jets with HS air bleeds at drill to size
     
  19. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
    what do u guys think about the fuel log sorry no rpm..
     
  20. allmotor65stang

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2006
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