I have just orderd the BTM MSD 8762 which is the add on boot timing master to pull out timing nder boost and are wondering if m distributor needs to be changed or not? I had it changed a while ago to be locked at 10 degrees in full advance. ie start up at 10 degrees and under full advance/throttle total of 20 degrees.

 

Are you talking about this ?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6462/


Why not this ?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6530/

 

Damn sorry I wrote the wrong one.
Try this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8762/

 

It depends what you want to do. In the end you will either lock the dizzy or leave it as is. If you leave it as is you will be pulling more timing to compensate for the advance the dizzy has.

Then again if you are only running 20* total advance you shouldn't need to pull any timing

 

The 6530 is worth the extra money IMO . There is way more timing control with this box . Not sure what coil you have , so you might need one with this box ................ but still worth it for the control you get .

http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=14276&terms=6530

 

I want to have say 32-35 down low and then total of 20 dergrees at say 15 psi. How would I go about this with my current distributor and his box?

 

If you have 35 total and want 20 at 15psi you will need to pull 1 degree per pound.

 

Locked is less of a headache imo, but personally I need the extra timing down low running 8.3:1 compression.

 

Yes I am the same and would like some extra down low and I am running E85 and apperently is a lot harder to burn and would like it with more ignition. So What has to be done to the distributor??

 

It sounds like there is still a set of springs in the ditributor? I am unsure how else you have 10 deg. at start up & 20 total unless there is a timing retard for start-up. If so you just need to re-curve the distributor for what you want now. This will be accomplished by changing the spring combo in the dizzy.

 

Download the user manual directions off MSD website.

 

Here is how you lock a MSD distributor . Or you can just weld the one you got .


#ad




I would still consider the box I listed above over the BTM .

 

The only reasons I see to lock a distributer is if you have no boost retard or your box can control rpm advance. With no retard you would have to set initial at 0 or even ATDC to get 20 once the mechanical advance did it's thing. If you have no rpm advance and use a BTM you will idle at 35btdc and that will actually hurt tq on most engines below 2500 or 3000rpm.

I agree with Blown385 though the 6530 will help out a street driven or even a track car a lot. Locked timing and no boost retard is a dog off boost, spools slower and gets worse mpg. The 6530 will give you the ability to have vacuum advance, 3 rev limits and launch retard. If you drive on the street a lot and don't have a transbrake the 6530 will help a lot w/o breaking the bank. My car with out the 2 step is .2 slower in 60' and .3-.4 slower in the 1/8. I can build about 3.5 psi on the foot brake with a 2 step and can not even get to 0 vacuum with out it.

 

Does it mean that if i set my distributor at 30 degrees max and then get the msd to pull 10 degrees out it will go to the 20 max. Because my distributor is locked at 10 degrees full advance it would not allow mine to take anymore out than the 10 degrees, or do I need to change the distributor?
What do people do to there distributors to run thes boxes or d they just use factory vacuum advance distributors?

 

I am confused at where your initial/idle timing is and how much mechanical advance you have. It sounds like 10 initial and 10 more mechanical for a total of 20. I would set the distributer as if you were naturally aspirated. Then set the box to get you to what you need under boost. I think the BTM only allows 15* retard so if you need 20* at 15psi you can not set total timing over 35*.

 

My distributor has been changed by a dizzy place to be set to have 10 degrees mechancal advance only. So if I set it initial at 8 then it will only go to 18 at total. Or set initial at 10 and go to 20 degrees. I would have to send it back to the dizzy joint to get changed back to original if needed.

 

Take a look a few posts up. You either have stop bushings or weights that limit you to 10* you should be able to swap out some parts (bushing, weights or both) to obtain the amount of mechanical advance you desire. You can then use the BTM or other electronic control to pull timing when in boost.

 

If it is a duraspark there is a slot that can be filed easily to give more advance. What brand is it?

 

It is a factory australian distributor that has been modded by a company down here in Australia.

 

You need to pull the cap/rotor and figure out what you have. Spending money for someone to set your timing is crazy imo