i just ordered a set of pro copper gaskets from sce to get my compression where i want it...what install methods are you guys using and what results? kw copper coat? ford diesel silicone? thanks in advance!

 

and yes i searched. mainly concerned with copper coat results...i didnt find much on it...

 

I'm using the ics titan's from sce, just cleaned up the surface and retorqued the heads once up to temp.

 

This is the way I do copper head gaskets!

1.Block o-ringed with steel wire out .012-.015.

2.Clean everything really good, take (red) high temp silicone and go around all the holes on the gaskets, take your finger and spread it really thin so it barely covers everywhere. Do both sides and let silicone cure.

3.Get copper spray gasket adhesive and spay both sides of the gaskets really good and let cure.

4.Right before you are ready to put the heads on, spray the heads and the block with the copper coat and let get tacky.

5.Install heads and torque to proper specs.

6.Do not put coolant in engine yet! Crank car and let it warm up, not too hot! Let cool down over night then retorque heads and add coolant.

This works good! I can usually reuse the coppers once, by flipping it over and putting it on the other side! If it seeps any then you can use the heater core sealant that you put in the coolant, but usually they seal perfect!

 

i was just reading on hotrod magazine about tom nelsons build on the f-bomb twin turbo sbc he used copper HG with o-ring block check it out it might help i am thinking about useing the sce/ics titans but not sure if i would need a fuse if the tune goes bad are like what happened last week when i had boost spike and blow a HG.

 

Unless you are using SCE ICS Titans i'm pretty sure you need to have an o-ring in the block, and you have to use some rtv sealant on oil return holes and coolant passages (thin film)


I know if you dont follow the directions on the ICS titans they will leak. The ICS titans come with sealant pre-applied to the coolant and oil return ports.

 

Please don't take this the wrong way.
I'm not trying to show any body up
but putting RTV on the gasket is not
the correct way to do this.

Many of the holes in a gasket are smaller
than the holes in the block/head so putting RTV
around the holes on the gasket won't seal
the gasket to the block/head because the RTV
is in the hole and never touches the block/head

There are tons of people that cuss copper gaskets
for water/oil leaks and no matter how much RTV
they put on the gasket it still leaks, and this is the
reason why .

The proper way to do this is to put a 'very' thin bead
around the holes on the block and heads and leave
the gasket bone dry!

Do not let the RTV setup get everything ready put down
the RTV and put the head on the motor and torque it down.

I had a old engine builder show me how to do this years ago
and I have NEVER had not so much as a damp spot on any of my motor!!!

 

I don't do a thin bead, it spreads out and covers good!

There are many ways to do it and some work and some dont!

I know for a fact, the way I do it it works! Your way sounds like it would work as well!

 

Your right there's many way to skin a cat.

 

Never had the sce/ics titans seal at over 24psi.

 

I've seen the sce/ics titans hold up to 35psi and 150 shot.

 

I'm using SCE Pro head gaskets / o-ringed block .

Installed with copper spray and torqued only once .

Over 10,000 miles so far , no leaks .

I told myself , if I had any problems , I would pull the o-rings put copper wire in and run MLS gaskets .

Dont fix whats not broken ................right ?





Knocks on wood .

 

There's different types of copper gaskets. Personally I use the SCE-Titan self sealing. You put them on dry, nothin else. I do clean the block and head with brake cleaner to get the surfaces very clean.
These do require an O ringed block and reciever groove in the head. Retorque after full engine heat up and complete cool down.
I've never had them leak water or compression. This is a description below...

Blessings........Ron

SCE Titan copper self-sealing head gaskets are SCE's ultimate head gasket.
With their built-in oil and coolant seals, patented SCE Titan copper self-sealing head gaskets don't need any sealants. That means that you get user-friendly installation, combined with reliable fluid sealing, plus the unbeatable strength of solid-copper gaskets. The fluid seals are bonded to both sides of the gasket and cleverly offset to allow the annealed copper of the gaskets to deform around them for a better seal, especially in the O-ring combustion-seal area. SCE Titan copper self-sealing head gaskets are the results of an 8-year development period. They are currently used in competition on midgets, fuel cars, boats, and sprint cars, as well as on blown, turbocharged, and nitrous-fed street rides.

 

i have the self sealing gaskets, but i think i made a mistake. I torque cycled my head studs with the gaskets installed before i did the full heat cycle, cool down, and retorque. we'll see how they turn out i guess. :noidea:

 

Drove my car a few miles today, first street miles for the engine in N/A carb configuration. All good, no leaks period.

 

Hylomar spray has a long track record of making head gaskets seal in high boost applications and prevent fluid leaks. I should know...I work for a company that sells it to all the biggest names in drag racing and sprint cars and nascar. I see who is buying this stuff and realize whoa...They know what they are doing.

 

Where can you buy this stuff?

 

i got mine from my local speed shop $25

 

Any speed shop that deals with Motorstate, CV Products, VSI, Nickells or many other distributors will have easy access to Hylomar. or you can go to the where to buy page at www.valco-cp.com and find many more.

Hylomar in some rare & expensive engines actually totally replaces the entire head gasket. It was developed by Rolls Royce & Marston Bentley for Aircraft use. It also is popular in power plants for generating turbines that make electric power. It is designed to be a fuel & oil proof non-hardening flange sealant that fills gaps up to .010" and will not burn or blow out. The solvent is Methylene Chloride...The main ingredient in paint strippers that allows it to grip to surfaces then tack up like a thick tar like substance.

We use Tri-chlorethylene solvent to remove Hylomar....As long as you use this solvent it comes off effortlessly....good luck without it.


Hylomar has the unique ability to flex and move without giving up its seal....You could literally lift a cylinder head under detonation and when the head comes back down it will reseal itself. Honestly. The stuff has been known to cure some engines of habitual head gasket problems. It is compatible with most gasket types as well.