stock shortblock 5.0, tw heads, victor jr intake, hanger 18 modded holley 650 street hp, bg hr220 pump, mallory 4309 regulator, s-trim vortech around 16lbs of boost on pump gas, i'm running a msd billet mech distributor, crane hi-6 box with lx92 coil. I guess i would just lock timing out around 22deg or so with the setup i have now but wouldn't this make the car a major dog below boost,poor mileage,driveability, and hard starts? still trying to figure out if it's necessary or beneficial to run a boost retard box like an msd btm etc on a street/strip car? thanks marty

 

I would expect your combo tk want more timing than 22 probably 30's but you'll need to ease up to it. Make sure the tune is right, make one change at a time . The problem i see is pump gas and 16psi ..

 

anyone feel free to list your setups

 

Turbo setups going to have different curve, but there is always benefits to having control over ign. I ran a Mallory 685 on my blow thru turbo setup, and there was a day, and night difference vs locking timing for daily driving, and cruising. Well worth the money IMO.

 

so the box does all the work for you and you left the advancement on the dizzy do it's thing? I was looking at that box-did you have to buy the map sensor and harness for $100 to make it work? is there a dial in the car or on the box? I know msd is making the 6al2 that requires the map sensor as well-i don't think the 6btm requires one but doesn't have the 2 step

 

The box looks to have the programer built into the box and has a display on it so you can scroll through the menu . Yes you will need the MAP sensor to use the boost retard .

 

Mode 1 – This is the normal engine protection RPM limit. It is active if no other RPM limit is
selected. The range of this limiter is 1000 to 12800 in steps of 100 RPM.

Mode 2 – This is the auxiliary RPM limiter, and it is activated when 12 volts is applied to the
ORANGE wire coming out of the end panel. The range is the same as the Mode 1 RPM
limiter. This RPML will over-ride the Mode 1 RPML when it is active.

Mode 3 – This is a selectable high-speed timing retard. It is selected when the YELLOW
wire coming out of the end panel has 12 volts applied. The range is 1 to 15 degrees in .1
degree steps.

Mode 4 – Start retard value. This amount of retard is applied whenever the engine RPM is
below 500. The range is .1 to 10 degrees in .1 degree steps.

Modes 5 and 6 – These two control the built-in RPM activated “window” switch. Mode 5
sets the RPM where the switch activates, and mode 6 sets the RPM where the switch deactivates.
This is useful if, for example, you want to have your nitrous system only work
within a certain RPM range. The output wire for the RPM switch is the VIOLET wire
coming out of the end panel. It is connected to ground when the switch is active, and has
a maximum current rating of 10 amps. NOTE: The RPM range for this switch is 1000 to
12, 8000 and the off RPM (mode 6) must be at least 100 RPM higher than the on RPM
(mode 5).

Mode 7 – Tach test. This feature allows you to check the accuracy of your tachometer and
any accessories connected to the tach output terminal. It also will activate the built-in
RPM switch in the Hyfire. To use the tach test feature, turn the ignition switch on without
starting the engine. Select mode 7. Turn the ignition switch off briefly, then back on again.
The HYFIRE® will be generating a signal at the tach output terminal at the RPM displayed
on the top panel. You can use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to change the RPM to the
desired value.
To return to normal operation, select mode 1. Turn the ignition switch off. The next time the
ignition switch is turned on, the HYFIRE® will be out of the tach test mode.

Mode 8 – Boost timing retard degrees per PSI of boost. If you have an optional MAP sensor
connected, the HYFIRE® 685 will retard the timing as the boost pressure increases. Mode 8
tells the system how many degrees to retard the timing for each pound of boost. The MAP
sensor plugs into the 3 wire connector that comes out of the front panel. If you don’t have a
MAP sensor installed, this function has no effect.

Mode 9 – Cylinder number select. Set this to however many cylinders your engine has. The
range is 3 to 12, even-fire ONLY!

Mode A – MAP sensor select. There are two MAP sensors available that are compatible
with the HYFIRE® 685. One is a 2 Bar sensor (Accel P/N 74776), which is good for about
15 PSI of boost, and the other is a 3 Bar sensor (Accel P/N 74777), good for about 30 PSI
of boost. Use mode A to tell the HYFIRE® 685 which sensor you are using. If you don’t
have a MAP sensor installed, this function has no effect.
To use the boost retard feature, you must use the Mallory P/N 29785 harness and
appropriate MAP sensor, as referenced above.

 

What blown385 posted. All programmed thru the display. You can leave the dist as is, or lock it out as the 385 has a start retard. The map is the the way to go if you want proportional retard, but could probably get by using the single stage retard feature, and hobbs, or built in window switch. The map would be the better option with the sc as boost is proportional to rpm. I looked at the 6AL2 as well, but went with the Mallory because I found a few on ebay for about half price. Very nice box that is very user friendly.

 

wondering if you guys running the mallory box tuned your own stuff with a wideband or on a dyno? how do you know how much timing to run and pull with boost and is jetting tricky?

 

I tuned my own, and I wouldn't run without a wideband before, or after a tune. Timing out of boost isnt too bad, but in boost just start low, and add a degree, or two at a time, and watch plugs, mph (track) or the power to fall off (dyno). I compared my setup to others to get a ballpark timing curve, and went from there. If you have some experience with carbs, and as long as your carb works, ie pv's, or brpv's carb tuning isnt too bad. There is plenty of info here on carbs.....

 

I don't know much about it but I want to go to the msd 6530 when I get to it.
it is programmable also using maps. I was thinking there were at least a few guys on here running it.

 

i'm running a crane hi-6 now n/a-i've had good luck with crane boxes in the past-they make a hi-6r for boost, wondered if anyones running one

 

Good thing about that box is your not stuck just pulling X amount of timing per # of boost .

But you do need a lap top though when programing .

Its got some good stuff .



http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/Products/Ignitions/6530_instructions.pdf?terms=6530

 

I have nessed with the maps on a retored pro stock bike before they opened the programming up in other boxes. It is pretty sweet abd almost indefinite on tuning.

I think they are fairly reasonable on price for a programmable unit.
Can you build the program on a desktop and load it to the box with the box not in the car?

 

Sure , but the box needs 12volts .

Plus to make changes at the track , you would want a laptop .

You could find one pretty cheap to do what you need to do . I think all it needs is Windows to operate , but check with MSD to be sure .


If your just tuning for the street , then just buy a 50' serial cable , assuming the desktop is that close to the car .

 

For initial or home tunes you could go the long cable route as 385 suggested. The cheap laptop is a better solution. Most tuning software just needs basic Windows xp or newer. I would not go out and buy a new laptop. Buy a used cheap laptop as there is the likelyhood of it being dropped, tweaked by vibration, stepped on .... (Dont ask me how I know) . Get a cig lighter adapter or inverted as the battery will always let you down. ,-)

 

I was actually thinking about a long serial cable! Lol
Probably cost more than half of a cheap laptop anyhow.

Well, the 6530 is my suggestion on a box for the OP.

 

The 50' cables are about $15 to $20 on Amazon .

Dont forget the newer laptops dont use serial ports anymore so you will also need a serial to USB adapter .

 

Didn't know you could get them that cheap.

I thought I read somewhere that a specific adapter was needed to properly communicate with the msd software. :noidea:

 

Your talking about the serial to USB adapter .

The MSD uses a serial port and all laptops today use USB ....... but if you find an older laptop on the cheap , it will probably have the serial port so the adapter wont be needed . Either way the adapter isnt that expensive .