What weight oil (synthetic) should I be using in my Incon 306?

thanks

 

15w40 Royal Purple

 

thank you for the reply.....anyone else have input???

how about a 10w-40. I will be using amsoil synthetic and they dont offer a 15w-40.

 

i called cartech about using the stock oil 10w30 and they said it was fine. so whats the deal should turbo cars run a heavy weight oil or what?

 

I run 5w-30 Ford oil at the moment, but at the next oil change I'll be putting in 5-30 Amsoil. I change the oil every 6 months (about every 1000 miles).

I've never run heavier then 5-30 in the turbo motor....never saw any adverse affects when I tore down the motor either. I haven't taken the turbos apart, but I suspect if the bearings/seals were wearing due to a lack of oil viscosity I'd know by now.

 

just got off the phone with my Amsoil rep and he suggested using the AMSOIL ATM 10W30 Turbo Formulation oil. Guess thats what I will be going with.

 

hey 93pony-

wondering what you are running for boost? what hp are you seeing?

 

Mobil 1 10W-30 works for me. I really don't think brand of oil matters, but synthetic seems to offer better heat resistance power adder cars, especially turbos, are known for.


What brand of oil filter is popular by the way?

 

from all of my internet research... people really like the wix/napa filters and the amsoil filters.....


everyone always says stay away from FRAN.... although I have always run FRAN filters on my 6 cyl ranger and that has 185,000 miles with zero problems....

 

I only run the K&N Gold Oil fitlers. They are great filters.

As long as you run Royal Purple, AMSOIL, or Red Line you should be just fine.

 

All Redline here. I think there was 10w40 in it last.

Fwiw, I use Purolater PureOne filters on all my cars.

HERE is a pretty cool oil filter study done a few years ago by a guy with way too much time on his hands. Not very scientific, but he does uncover some interesting information. YMMV

 

since i had to remove the dip stick, that i carefully bent around my main bearing support, to change the head gaskets, there is no way to put another one back in. when i want to check the oil, i just run down and buy five more quarts and change it at least once a month. so does anyone have any ideas on a dipstick that i could use?

 

Similar: I've wondered what the guys running aftremarket blocks do since most don't have sticks. I guess they may do the same thing?

Is it possible to use an old style timing cover on a late model 302? Didn't those have the dipstick mounted in them? Obviously the pan is different, but could it be made to work if you filled the motor and used that level as a reference. Maybe using a different length stick?

 

I have an Incon kit, and a DSS main support. Because of both of those things, I had to hack up my dip stick tube. Ended up using a section of flexible tubing and hose clamps for part of it. It works though.

Other ideas, are to weld a dip stick tube on to the oil pan (for those without a hole in the block). Or use the mod motor dip sticks, which are bendable in two directions instead of one. They are like a round wire, instead of a flat blade.

Brian

 

hell yeah i will definitely check out the mod motor stick. thanks this will definitely solve a major pia:tu:

 

My Canton pan came with a dipstick tube in it, and a dipstick.

 

Older motors chain covers have a dipstick in the timing cover.

 

No problem. Wish I had known this a while ago also. Had I known the mod motors had these types of dipsticks, I would have gotten one of those. Would have kept me from having to hack up my dip stick tube. Live and learn though.

BTW, if you have a main cap support like the DSS, I know exactly what you were going through. You probably already know this, but for those that don't.... In my case, I had to bend the part of the tube that protrudes into the block, to clear the main support. That made it impossible to install/remove the dip stick tube with the engine in the car though. As you try to remove the tube from the block, the bend in the tube causes it to curve away from the engine, until it hits either the master cylinder or the shock tower. With the "flat blade" dip stick, you can only put bends in the tube in one axis. No way around it. But with a "wire" type dip stick, you can bend it in two axis, meaning you could put other bends in the tube to keep it away from the shock tower when removing it. What I ended up doing (since I didn't know about the wire dip sticks at the time) was I chopped off a length of the tube, and replaced it with flexible hose. If I needed to remove the dip stick tube, I could just remove the hose, and the part of the dip stick tube that was still in the block was then short enough that it didn't hit anything when removing.

blah blah blah

 

thats exactly my problem with the dss support. everything was fine until i had to pull the dip stick tube to take the damn header off. after that there was no way that bitch would go back in

 

I see 12psi max at 6K. I'm running stock actuators set at 1/2 hole preload & get ~8-9psi at 3500, then it creeps to 12 by the time I shift. I don't mind it like this....it keeps the tires on the ground!

I don't know what kind of power it's putting down. I don't dyno the car anymore....too inaccurate & since I tune it on the street, it's simply a waste of $$$ to put it on a dyno. If you go off the raceweight of 3500lbs & the 127.4mph trap speed, it should give an indication of the power....I know it's under 600FW... LOL
Shooting for 130mph next time out! (100lbs less rotating weight, dumped exhaust, & launching off boost should do it!)