Want to see what others run with and without a trans brake? Right now at 2800rpm launch the 60' are 1.6 range but slow to build full boost. I believe a 3800-4000rpm launch with more boost would net better et's. Where should I be 60' ing with 550-600rwhp in a 3400lb race weight?

 

Evil this may help and it may not but wish I'd known this when starting. The problem with turbos is getting them to spool before launching. Ok so we build a 408 and a s480 and it takes off like a dog at the track were thinking we need more boost what's the problem? Ok we install the transbrake install the 2-step set it at 3600 and making 15 pounds what more could you ask for right? Cause everyone else was leaving hard with this much boost so we thought we had to have this much to, Wrong now were blowing the tires off, that's no problem just lower the 2-step and not make as much boost right? Wrong again, when we lowered the 2-step to kill some boost we were back to coming out slow. Everyone says ah you just need to play with it and get it dialed in, yes we have an electric boost controller on it, here's what I haven't read that no one will tell you at least I haven't saw it is that to get the car to leave hard and not be up on boost is by using CO2 to the controller. I always thought why would you need that heck we want all the power this thing will make not hold it back. By using the co2 you can leave at 4000 on say 5lbs. and get those hard launches "engine up in rpm" without blowing the tires off and soon as it launches bring the boost in as needed and as quick as you want. If you look at the people with the low 60's most are using co2. I'll shut up now but wish I had understood this better when starting to fool with how to make a turbo car leave hard.

 

Small tire mofia is going to be burning old tires on your front lawn for sharing that info. Lmfao.

 

Great info and thanks! My problem is this v6 bogs down with a 2700rpm 5psi launch, doesn't really spin the tires out the hole a few rotations like it should. I know tuning would help quite a bit because it's rich out the hole, I have it that way for the nitrous (just bumping the 50hp shot for 2 sec to spool have not launched with it spraying). I got a realgood deal on this pa trans brake and always wanted one so I jumped on it.

 

Upper 1.30's is doable if you have your stuff together. 3800 and 10+ lbs. is what it took for me to do it at your weight and power level. I was doing that on just the gate. I had it up to leaving off 14lbs but didn't see any improvement. I suspect that was because the trans was taking shit.

 

Yeah I don't want anything crazy. I'd be happy with 1.3's for a street car. It takes 1.2-.3 seconds to go from 2800rpm to 5400rpm flash stall (believe that's the correct term) where the car is making decent power and tq. 10 psi it hits the converter hard and flashes instant from that point according to my logs and videos.

 

With a v6 I would think your going to have to leave at 4500 on 2-step to get it moving with low boost then bring on heavy boost quick. EBC is critical with the c02, do your homework here it will pay off. Just don't depend on boost to get you moving out of the hole. Leaving at 4500 on 2-step wont require the NOS. She will be spooled.

 

Here is a similar combo using a turbonetics 76. 4.3l in a sn95 but redneck c4 and 4000 converter. My converter is quite a bit tighter, 3000-3200rpm I think. I have the pro edge from Andre. Also I'm using a s366 88ar turbo. Just looking for low 6's.

 

How much cost/time/effort is spent getting a TB and C02 boost control put in your car? Nitrous is relatively cheap/easy to install. If you setup a 100 shot at say 3100 rpm on your setup and shut off by 4000rpm a 10lb bottle will last you all year. You'll build boost instantly once it's dialed in. No sitting at the line for 2-3 seconds trying to build boost.

I'm all for a TB and progressive boost control, don't get me wrong. I think most could get by without them for your 60' goals using a properly setup nitrous system for much less time/effort/money.

IMO it's no more stressful on the engine than installing a trans brake and making the same power with boost alone.

 

The 50 shot works great for building boost at 2800rpm but the car pushes and loads the suspension and tires hard getting it there. When I launch and the car unloads a little it bogs a little with that low of rpm. Although I have not sprayed it out the hold yet spraying to the 60' might help it from bogging. Imho with the suspension I have on it now (eibach drag springs with strange adjustable shocks and struts and poly tube lowers) I think it needs to be shocked more to work properly instead of loading it up at the line.

 

Bump it up to 100 shot on a WOT switch/window switch. Problem solved. Brake stand it with 80% throttle or so, then go WOT on the green to activate the switch. 100 shot will get it up and going in no time.

 

That video just about took the words out of my mouth, just be careful NOS likes to eat hoods. RPM'S!!! or bust.

 

I have tried it this way on the 50 shot but it was a pita to launch. It didn't work as well as bumping the nitrous on the 2 step. By all rights I should have stayed the course with the nitrous to spool and tried it on the launch before I pulled the trigger on the trans brake vb. I've actually got the trans brake in the trans right now just have to wire it.

 

I was in a similar situation. I had super tight converter spec'd for a 370" motor. I put it behind 292" motor while I built the 370". Couldn't make more than a pound on the small motor on the brake and when I released the brake it fell on its face. I'd barely hit 3200 rpm on the TB. Had the nitrous come on from 3200 to 4200. Made a night and day difference. Instant boost and as much power as I wanted it to make. Adjusted 2-step for ideal launch RPM.

 

I hope to be able to stall it to 4000rpm on the brake, if not I'll be able to bump the nitrous to get it up on a higher stall. Nitrous is a great band aid for small ci turbo engine for sure.