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Welding Cast Metal

Discussion in 'General Discussion Forum For Non-Auto Topics' started by stangman9897, Aug 17, 2013.

  1. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
    Anybody have any tricks for cast, I usually use a nickel rod or just braze it but this thing has been welded on several times and I have no clue what they used and will be welding right next to a previous weld which I don't know what filler they used. I hate this shit, damn government job that's going to end up biting me in the ass im sure.

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  2. turboeverything

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2012
    I tig weld cast with nickel rod with flux knocked off.
    Preheated to 200- 300f before welding

    I have also played with stainless fill rod some. With mixed results
     
  3. 440roadrunner

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2012
    It just might be that nothing is going to hold that, ----what they do, use a big pipe on it? Sometimes brazing is better
     
  4. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
    Why would they put a big pipe on the travel wheel of a lathe ? lol

    Two are clean breaks but the one next too the hub has filler metal from another weld , that's the one im trying to figure what filler to use.
     
  5. Drac0nic

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2005
    Weld it up, tell them to use the lathe to make another one; bad as I hate to say that, if it's grey iron and it's been welded several times I'd bet that it has been gotten hot and the heat affected zone has been converted to white iron which means brittle and a set up for failure. What about a brazing rod of some kind, use a lower temp filler to try and keep the heat down? I mean ti's not an exhaust manifold or anything where it has to take a ton of heat.
     
  6. Rickracer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2012
    I would braze that, :thumbsup:
     
  7. 99TTGT

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2007
    I am NOT A ENGINEER but I have 3 lathes all of the made in the 1940's


    Engineer
    An engineer is a professional practitioner of engineering, concerned with applying scientific knowledge, mathematics, and ingenuity to develop solutions for technical problems. Engineers design materials, structures, and systems while considering the limitations imposed by practicality, regulation, safety, and cost.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer............................................................:ras:

    Charles:
    I will not suggest you to do it like this because I may kill several operators.
    But if you don't mind killing some people then you may want to try this way.....:stickpoker:

    On The monarch I had the same issue & had to find a solution to make it work since parts for this thing are not available.
    I had to WING it so what I did was I pre heat it with a tourch then tig & braze with silicon bronce.
    It work & 5 years later still holding...

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    Last edited: Aug 18, 2013
  8. 99TTGT

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2007
    It is what it is..:thumbsdown:

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  9. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
    LOL , you hit it on the nail head, it's a 48" swing 1946 Lathe. Use it for beveling pipe and machining flanges & fittings, believe t or not I just turned my clutch disk on it, took an hour to set it up and get it indicated but it worked. I think he said one of the guys hit the wheel with a piece of pipe, has an overhead crane over it to load the pipe. I can braze the 2 clean breaks but the one next to the hub has filler metal already so it's going to be the problem and if I grind the filler out i'll have a 1" gap to bridge. I put the tig on it and it acts like it's was welded with a Nic 99 rod which the brass will not want to bond to. I was looking at the Weldingtipsandtricks site and he says use Alum Bronze rod.
     
  10. 99TTGT

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2007
    bronze rod I use, had to order it from local supply...

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  11. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
    What is it, just silicon bronze ?
     
  12. 99TTGT

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2007
    Yes Sir...


    btw
    you may want to ask your local welding supply guru if there is a better option for your application...
    In the past i use a 1/16 nickel 61rod wich it was $50 a pound.But i have not been able to find that stuff anywere arround my side of the stcks in 6 years...
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013
  13. 74chlngrTT5.9

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2009
    Yes, use bronze rod.
    Another suggestion would be to grind out the already welded area and turn up a short spacer piece to fill and weld both ends in.
    preheat preheat preheat
    Or time to use lathe to turn up a new one.
     
  14. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
    Done deal..

    Super glue some bondo and a little paint and they will never know.

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  15. Drac0nic

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2005
    Not even the decency to use JB weld. Looks good, with what it's being used for I doubt it'll be an issue until someone hits it with a pipe again. Probably how it broke the other 12 times too.
     
  16. 99TTGT

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2007
    lol
    when ever you got time you need to mop the floor...:joke:
     
  17. blown67nova

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2013
    try muggyweld.com
     
  18. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009

    Don't do windows or floors , The tile looks dirty when its clean, probably going to replace it soon I hate it.

    I used the silicon bronze to tig it then threw it on the gas grill and let it cool down over night , from what I could see it had been welded at least 2 times maybe 3 . It didn't really come off that lathe someone just put it on it years ago I guess when the other one broke or got lost, it just moves the main tool post back and forth not really any stress on it.
     
  19. 99TTGT

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2007
    EXACTLY.!
    I can move mine with only one hand back & forward very easy, that's why i did not understood the hole pipe assumption...
     
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