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383 with 516 heads, more fuel or less timing to cure high rpm detonation?

Discussion in 'MOPAR Turbo Tech Forum' started by furious70, Oct 30, 2011.

  1. furious70

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    Have had the chance to beat on my car a decent bit now and log it. Got it running well at ~6psi, but I'm pretty sure I'm hearing pretty significant detonation above 4000rpm. I've been letting out of it at that point of course. I went from 12:1 and 30* to 11.5:1 and 30* and it maybe got a little bit better, but not much. NA I ran 36* WOT with no issues. I hate to pull more timing than I need, should I try dosing it with more fuel or is that timing still too high? Running 93 octane, likely E10, probably not oxygenated now this late in the year.

    Back pressure testing resulted in a very twitchy needle on the gauge, but ballpark it's certainly possible I'm near 3:1 ratio up at that rpm, which could also be hurting me. Air temp got as high as 160*
     
  2. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    IMO I would pull more timing. What compression ratio? Why not start low, and add a couple degrees at a time?
     
  3. johnnycharger

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2006
    G'day mate,

    I know you don't wanna do it, but pull timing and see what happens.
    As for your twitchy back pressure gauge, try fitting a restrictor in the line to the gauge, ie a .020 thou hole should do it, most trucks run a restrictor in the gauge line to stop a flickering gauge needle.
    3.1 back pressure ratio is not gonna help your detonation problems either
     
  4. alpha

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2005
    If you have audible detonation on a turbo car you have a huge problem. 11.5:1 is more than safe unless you have a cylinder not getting the same mixture. Pull four degrees of timing. If it's still audible you have another issue. What spark plugs are you running? The backpressure is increasing the likelihood of detonation though.
     
  5. M&M Turbochargers

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2011
    a guy might make sure all the plugs look the same (as far as rich lean) and i have to jump on board with pulling some more timing
     
  6. 440mark

    Joined:
    May 5, 2009
    Cooling the intake temps would help too.
     
  7. furious70

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    8.8:1, should have said that. Plugs are now quite hard to get to, but it had always burned very even NA EFI. Plugs are bosch platinums. I do have water injection I want to add this winter.
     
  8. 72 Dart

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Get rid of those bosch platinums there likely glowing and switch to an 8 or 9 heat range ngk plug i bet this will help lots!!!
     
  9. 440mark

    Joined:
    May 5, 2009
    I do like the ngks.Mine would detinate on my 318 at 160to 170 iat.W/W fluid would drop them to 70 and 80 iats when it was 100+ ambient temps.Didnt affect afrs that much
     
  10. alpha

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2005
    What are the part numbers on those Bosch Platinums?
     
  11. furious70

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    pretty sure these are the ones, they were on closeout on rockauto

    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=272206

    why would they be an issue. I was under the impression that at 5-6psi I probably would be ok with stock heat range? As a street car I don't want to go too cold on the plug.
     
  12. Alikazam

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
    Do you have an upgraded ignition? If so, going one heat range colder to help keep heat out of the plug will probably not affect much as far as fouling or anything like that. :) Hope that helps!
     
  13. furious70

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    MSD6 + blaster2 coil. Anyone got a good link to a plug chart that shows part numbers for heat ranges for various brands?
     
  14. PrecisionTurboMustang

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2006
    :bow:


    You have ballzrunning and platinum plug in a turbo setup. It is simply a huge no no, and just think about all the edges on a plat 4 that could glow red and cause problems.
     
  15. superbee1970440

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    I have no turbo-specific experience with bosch platinums but just lots of n/a experience. I have NEVER seen one single car run well on bosch platinum plugs. ever. not once.

    Just my $.02

    Sam
     
  16. furious70

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    These are not the ones with the 4 electrodes, they are a conventional looking plug. Taking that away, what is inherently wrong about a platinum plug in a turbo engine? I bought them cuz they were dirt cheap on closeout and assumed they would be an upgrade.
     
  17. Moparmatt72

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2011
    XR5 is what ngk part number is for a 383-440 and XRIX5 or iridiums. The higher the number the lower the heat range so a 6 would be one heat range lower, 7 equals 2 ranges lower. I'm not sure what makes the platinum plugs bad but I put a set in my reg neon and it ran like crap, for some reason they just don't work good for some cars, I ran them for the same reason cheap.
     
  18. Alikazam

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
    Higher numbers is lower heat range, and vice versa on NGK plugs. I just went from an LZTR5AIX-13 to an LZTR6AIX-13 in my challenger to drop 1 heat range. Most plugs I think go this way from what I recall. Iridium is harder and has better heat handling characteristics than platinum, so a good choice for forced induction, but copper is cheap and works great! Just need to change them out more frequently :) Good luck!
     
  19. Moparmatt72

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2011
    I liked how the hemis use the same plug as my srt4 did lol
     
  20. Alikazam

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
    Yeah :) Actually I think it was LZTR5AP-13, cuz Platinum's came out and Iridiums went in... :) Something like that anyway :)
     
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