I have a full body 1968 camaro twin to4b 1.0hot/.60cold ,406 ci 9.0comp,twisted wedge heads,xe nitrous cam 280/294,
rhoads lifters,350 trans, converter will stall to 4 grand if i stand on it with 3 lbs of boost foot braked,msd universal timing retard,hall effect electronic adjustable distributor, 3.30 rear gears, currently running 850 holley-boost refereced, mechanical
boost referenced fuel pump, twin wastegates 8 lb springs,dual sequential bov's BLOW THROUGH SET-UP
20 degrees innitial, cut in of 750rpm on distributor adding 6 degrees per 1,000rpm with a toal of 24 degrees added to the 20 degrees initial=44 degrees total taking out 2 degrees per lb of boost-15=29 at 8 lbs of boost.
YOU GUYS SEEM TO BE SO KNOWLEGEABLE CAN YOU GIVE ME ANY IDEAS? I'm 56 years old and haven't boosted before.
NEED HELP! THANKS,BOB My question is does this set-up make sense to you guys? Should i run less initial and ramp in more or less timing? I KNOW THAT I DON'T HAVE A MUSTANG, BUT AS I SEE IT YOU GUYS KNOW YOUR STUFF. I am new to forums and to boosting my car. I didn't write a big check and buy a kit. Just as many of you, I enjoy building my own and enjoy seeing a project coming together. Please don't take offense because I don't drive a FORD. This seems to be the best
place to talk to REAL CAR guys with a lot of knowlege and experience regardless of which corporation built there car.

 

My reading comprehension must suck...what's the question?

 

seems like good info but I missed the question too.

 

I second that what is it that you need help with?

 

Ok so from what i gather, and correct me if im wrong, is this:

You run 20* initial & 44* total

You're taking out 2* per PSI of boost, and your making 15psi

That leaves you with 29* total with 15psi boost = most likely too much for pump gas....

But what is the question?

So you know, i run 2 MP T70's w/ .68 A/R and run 24* with 15psi on Sunoco 94 octane pump gas....70/95 jets in the CSU 750 carb...keeps the A/F @ 11:1 under WOT

 

THis forum is great, you don't even have to ask a quesiton to get multiple answers, or people guessing at your question!

Other forums it seems like you have to threaten members to get anything out of them if you're not one of the "regulars"...

 

well bob it seem to me you need a 94 cobra mustang with single t70 instead of that camaro. we should trade so you have less headaches and a tuned vehicle

 

3lbs of boost @ 4000rpm on the converter?, I would think that it should make alot more boost or even full boost @ 4K, especially with twins on a 406.
Is the car intercooled? if so 8lbs of boost should live with 29 degrees and 9.0:1.
so 24 degrees @ 10 lbs of boost, right. That might not be enough timing to make good power, you will just have to play with it and see.

 

is anybody that hangs out on internet forums really "regular" ?

 

good point

 

Congrats on getting the beast running Now the best way to get it tuned is to get it to the track.

rpm = total timing
750 = 20*
1750 = 26*
2750 = 32*
3750 = 38*
4750 = 44*

To start, I would ramp in all mechaincal timing by 2500-3000 rpm. Is there a specific problem such as hesitation or bog more detailed problem would give better responses.

 

i'm gonna try ramping the timing in by 2500 and at 3000. I don't have any hesitation only tire smoke. I was only running 10 degrees initial and gave it more, and the egine responded well. some people say that you need somewhat retarded timing to help build heat, I can see how that would work, but a lot of them were running sticks, I have an automatic. I don't have time to get it to the track, but I have the latest G-tECH, I'LL GIVE THAT A TRY.
==========================A QUESTION???????=====================================
iI have a good air ratio meter and several Pyrometer's how can I use these to sort things out, AND WHAT SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR ON THESE MONITORS??????

THANKS, TURBO BOB

 

Try to limit maximum total timing before the boost retard to 38-40* . Taking out 2* per psi is probably a good starting point as well - I would set max timing taken out 14*. Most people with blow throughs don't have the adjustability you have with timing so they tend to lock the timing at 24-28* depending on application. With a large stall converter and boost, timing down low probably won't make a huge difference but every little bit will help off boost driveability. There is really no way to tell how much timing your particular setup will tolerate except for trial and error. You want to find what the engine likes without killing head gaskets or pistons.

The key is to start conservative and sneak up on the tune without breaking things. Part throttle cruise a/f ratio should be around 14:1 while full throttle full boost should stay just south of 11.5-12:1. Your best bet is to use an a/f meter with datalogging ability and playback after a test to evaluate changes. Pick a gear which is safe, hit record and roll on throttle. Let off immediately if a/f goes over 13:1 and rejet the secondary. It may be safer to have second person watch the a/f while making a test pass so you can watch the road.

Strokedz's setup is similar and runs real strong but also look through the blow through data base for other similar setups for a good place to start jetting. https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=50928.0

Good luck

 

What dragginwagon and the others said is great information. On timing, it probably likes 20 deg. down low to be responsive but when you floor it even when it's at zero boost, you should try to run maybe 30 to 35 deg. since thats what a N/A motor would like and then start retarding from there. The way you are programmed now, your timing is pretty hot in the lower boost numbers and if you start to ping it will keep on pingin as it boosts up higher. The ol' knock hysterisis situation for sure. Running 44 deg at cruise can help get better mileage but i think thats too high to shoot for just yet on a new combo. Keeping timing low to start out also helps things live as you nail down the A/F ratio too. Keep a damn good eye on fuel press. too until the system proves itself adequate under a high gear load. It may look ok on short bursts but fail miserably on a high end pull at the track. One more thing, if you have power valve backfire protectors in your holley i think they need to be removed cuz the boost supposedly screws with them. Anybody else know more on that subject?