Hi all. I’m new to the forum and need help putting a turbocharger on a I built out of junkyards. I used an inline 4 cylinder flathead out of a Hi-Lo. I used a hydrostatic transmission and need more power. #ad


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Black iron pipe for a frame?

 

Socket weld fittings! Damn. More like process or oil & gas leftovers. Interesting build!

Hydrostatic drive ... so what's your top speed?

 

it is 4130 steel pipe and weldable steel elbows.

 

Top speed is the problem. I got bad advice with the hydrostatic drive. The pump and motor goes to over-pressure very early on so 37mph is the best I get on level roads.

I need to double the size of the pump and motor and need more power from the engine to drive the increase in size.

 

What's the engines displacement, max rpms, current hp?

 

This is what I would've assumed just based on the drive system and original application. Shimming whatever pressure relief the pump has might get you a marginal speed increase. It's a little hard to tell from the pictures but is that a chain drive?

It might be slow getting there but can you throw a larger front sprocket on and get whatever speed you are targeting? Then try adding power.

 

yes it is a chain drive. I did try a larger sprocket and it still went to pop-off. When I go to 2 cu in on the pump and motor the engineer I’m working with says it will pull the stock motor down.

 

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There's 5 models there, which one are you using?

 

sorry. It is the Y112

 

FYI - The Continental Y112 engine drives a 1 cu in variable displacement hydraulic pump. The pump sends high pressure oil to the 1 cu in fixed displacement motor mounted on the swing arm which drives a chain to the rear wheel.

I need to change both pump and motor to 2 cu in but I can’t go over 3000 rpm so need more power down low.

 

112cu/in making 37.8hp means ~60% ve, need to double power to 75hp. This means you need a turbo capable of 7.5lbs/min at 2.25 pressure ratio. If you intercool it and assume a 2psi drop, you'll end up with 2.22pr at the engine and density ratio of 2, 37.8hp x 2 density ratio =75hp.

Turbine side will require 2.05 expansion ratio with exhaust corrected flow of 7.1lbs min.

Bottom line, garrett gt1241 with wastegate set for 19psi will work good. Unfortunately there isn't alot of turbo options when you get down to this territory. There's a few others, mhi td02, ihi rhb31, but lack of compressor and turbine maps makes it hard to properly size. Where I can guarantee the gt12 will work.

 

Yep, the GT1214 looks perfect. Here is a write up I did for a local rag back home.

This is the "Industrial Motor Bike" I built it in Ron Finch's shop over a one year period. Here are a few descriptors.

The leading link front end down tubes are from a 1962 HD FLH. I bent them and welded on the pivot points, then made up the links out of aluminum bar stock. The fender is HD as is the wheel. The triple trees are 1" plate cut to fit. The head light is from a mid-50s Mac truck and the spotlights are industrial work lights.

The gas tank is from a Farmall "A" tractor with a tunnel cut in to fit over the backbone. The instrument panel is made from diamond plate and have an oil temp, oil pressure, hydraulic temp, and water temp gauge, as well as the key switch. The handlebars are 1- and 3/4-inch bent tubing and the raisers are big nuts bored out to fit the bars. All hand controls are HD after market. The gauge on the bars is the hydraulic pressure gauge.

The rear fender is a trailer fender with diamond plate sides screwed on. The taillight is a front turn signal from a mid-40s school bus. The red Jerry cans have the tops cut and hinged and are saddle bags. The rack is from a 50s Cushman scooter. The stainless tanks are the Hydraulic reservoirs. The seat is from an old tractor.

The engine is a Continental Y112 out of a fork truck driving a hydraulic pump which drives a hydraulic motor on the swing arm which drives a chain to the back wheel....which is a Mickey Thompson car rim with a split hub. The tire is a 230mm. the floorboards are the steps from an old slide, and they are cast and read "AMERICAN". The frame is all 4130-chrome molly tubing and wieldable high pressure joint fittings.

 

Here’s a question out of ignorance; Will adding a turbo to my engine reduce the life of the engine?

 

Can I use a normal carburetor with a turbocharger or does it need a special one?

 

Sorry for all the dump questions but what does the vacuum pod looking thing with a rod to the exhaust side, and what does it do?

 

That is the wastegate actuator, and gets a boost reference, not vacuum.

I'm not really experienced with turbocharging carbs, I do know you need a stronger float, as the boost can crush them. Maybe with yours being small, it'll be strong enough to survive. Also need a fuel pump in order to keep fuel in the bowl. You'll need to adjust the jets/needles, highly highly recommended to install a wideband a/f Guage so you know where your air/ fuel ratio is at.

 

Thanks BBI

 

i know this is a turbo forum but what do you all think of a small belt drive supercharger like this one. It is only 8' x 5" x 4"

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