Let's hear 'em, anybody have any info' as to what would be a better choice when it comes to dampers. I've currently got a 6 1/4" Fluidampr and just want some opinions as to what may be better or why this wouldn't work. Thanks in advance!


---==Temio Williams
Yuba City, CA

 

ATI

Alum hub is fine for a turbo.

You should be able to get a steel hub for a blower
Double keyed, steel and you will be fine.

Many crank co. will not warranty the crank with a FD!
I never us them!

 

I'm usin an ATI Super Damper... 8)

 

ATI super damper

 

What about the TCI rattler?

 

What makes a fluidamper suck so much? Now you got me curious.

 

Sounds like the ATI is pretty proven, I figured as much.

I can just imagine the conversation I'd have, tryin' to get Scat to warranty my crank:

Me: "I'm here in Yuba City."

Scat Tech:
"Yuba Whatta'??
You mean you didn't have a "qualified technician" inspect and install our product, as per our recommended procedure?"
Eff-Ooh, Mr. Williams."



---==Temio Williams
Yuba City, CA

 

The F/D's are known to sink or stick. The weight is completely "free floating" yet every other Damper has a fixed to elastically coupled and essentially fixed weight on it. The F/D and TCI have moving parts...

The dampers job is all about frequency cancellation and controlling crankshaft osolation.

TCI stole the technology from the aircraft industry. These were made for nearly constant low rpm apps.
Nothing like street driving or drag racing.

 

in colder weather I noticed a small vibration for a few seconds with the fluidamper.

I switched to an ATI and it went away

 

Thanks for the info. I wasnt aware that the FD's had a design flaw like that. Of course what does my car have on it? A fluidamper.

 

trbo355, Don't feel bad I have one also on my nitrous motor,but my new build will certianly have a ATI.

 

Fluidamper as well as any other brand damper that utilizes moving internal components are only effective in steady-state engines, such as diesel engines or endurance marine engines. Since the damper(s) have moving components, they do not respond instantly to rapidly changing harmonic frequencies in the crankshaft in engines that experience rapid/varied RPM changes, such as those encountered in high-output street engines as well as drag racing and road racing engines. The moving parts essentially have to "catch up" to dampen the harmonic frequencies, but by the time they're in the range to control those frequencies, if the RPM and/or load in the engine changes, then the crankshaft is already encountering different frequencies. When you have an engine that operates in a very narrow RPM band, such as a diesel engine or marine engine, then these dampers can "settle in" and do an effective job of dampening harmonics. The other problem you have with dampers that have moving parts is that those moving parts develop their own harmonics that have to be dampened as well, which only compounds the problem you're already facing. The problem gets even worse when you have an engine with a long crank snout, such as a Ford. The damper can end up doing such a poor job of controlling harmonics and oscillations that the crank snout essentially starts to whip around and eventually break off. I've seen numerous Ford cranks with broken snouts that had Fluidamper products on them.