I was talking to competion cams today and we ended up thinking on this specs its basically a 280h but instead of a 110 lobe separation it will be grinded on a 116 lobe separation

hydraulic flat tappet
duration @.050 236int and exh
adv duration 280int and exh
valve lift 0.460 int and exh
lobe sep 116

what do you guys think?

 

What head will you be using? what turbo? HP goal? Need a ton more specs to decide on a Cam.

 

heres the funny answer.... 1979 draw through 2.3L.
stock head
stock pretty much everything

 

I wont say the cam isnt good. Im not an expert. Intake centerline and lobe sep. are similar to some forced induction cams.

[email protected] seems like its gonna be huge on that IMO, considering that a 2.5L, modified head, big turbo on 50 psi, [email protected] cam, on methanol ,in a 3200 mustang runs 8.80s

What are your goals?

 

Goals probably around 300 to 400 whp
Yes I will be using water/meth, probably upgrading to holley 350 cfm, and msd btm-2, still figuring out if the head would flow for those numbers, i believe its the open chamber one oval port, dont know if the d ports will fit with the draw through turbo...

 

Are you going to modify the head for the .460 lift or are you confident it will clear without modification? How much are they charging for the slider cam? I've got an old Erson turbo grind, 218/[email protected]" and .456/.450 lift. Not sure on love separation as it was never called out, but it may be 110 degrees.

 

Apparently what the guy said is that the 280H comp cam needs no modifications..that it would be a nice upgrade if i could find better springs for high rpm valve float. But it should work on stock head and springs. Its $206.00 grinded with that 116 lobe separation ...plus s/h

 

That cam does seem on the big side for a stockish build. Many have made hp in your goal range with just a Ranger roller setup. Are you running the stock 79 draw thru turbo as well? If so, then i'd definitely stick with a stockish cam... make your hp with boost and the small turbo.

 

Thats part of what i have been thinking of... I am sticking with the draw through setup for a while, wonder if the whole d port head could work with the draw though turbo manifold.. that way i could just swap the whole thing... Then again i wonder if the 32/36 webber will be able to flow enough, its just that theres not that much on this kinda setup... Kind of weird setup, and most try to work with stock stuff and honestly havent seen anhone around that stands out and not crying with the vacuum madness.. i took it back to basics and its working quite alright but not enough... Kind of used to 400whp plus dailys

 

So ended up getting a used roller cam with followers. Actually got the whole head for basically nothing... Its an 8 plug head. Im gonna place that cam on the oval port stock head... Just wondering will this followers line up with the valve? Cant seem to find which year was the 8 plug head produced

 

I believe the 8 plug started right around 1990. The cam and followers should fit any of the 2.3/2.5 sohc heads iirc.

 

So aparently some 8 plug ones do fall into the narrow valve stems... So now the cam is in place and thinking if i should find the wider followers or if i should machine this ones up to valve stem size....

 

Well did the cam swap. Ranger roller cam on oval port head.... Machined the followers to fit on valve stem width, now surprise the engine cranks like it had no spark plugs on.. im thinking the valves wont close completely.
Im thinking there might be differences in the hydraulic lifter, maybe theres a difference that might keep the valve slightly opened? Please any help and inputs would be awesome...
Yes its on tdc, and yes cam timming mark in place, yes i did compare the cam sprocket they are the same. Yes the dowel pin its in the same position. I did manually rotated the engine and yes all the timming marks lined up. Had to readjust the distributor since the pulley was off by one tooth. Still this would make the engine spin with no compession whatsoever, if anything it would sputter or blow up the carb...

Please any experiences?

 

I can't spek to the lash adjusters being different, but a cqll to the local parts store to see if the part numbers are the same would give you a starting point.

 

Old thread, I know.

With no compression after a cam swap, what I would probably do is (carefully) compress the HLAs and reassemble. It will be noisy until they pump back up, but it sounds like they are holding the valves open.

There's nothing magical about putting a stock roller cam in any of the 1974-198x slider cam heads. The cam itself will fit in any of the heads. The only hangup is making sure you get followers that match the valve stem diameter. Sometime around '94 or '94 they went from 11/32" to the smaller 7mm. Later on they went from cast(forged?) followers to stamped.

And 400hp on a draw-through 2.3 without touching the head? That's an uphill battle if there ever was one.