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Thinking of changing setup. Am I crazy?

Discussion in 'MOPAR Turbo Tech Forum' started by CW25, Jan 16, 2011.

  1. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    I Have been thinking of changing setups on my truck. I am thinking of doing a remote mount turbo. I would put it probably just in front of the rear axle or in the bed. I want to take some weight off the front of the truck and put it in the rear. I also just got a AIS meth injection system. My thoughts are I can take that 70 lb turbo, 35 lb cast iron manifolds and toss the 20+ intercooler. Most of the weight would end up on the rear of the truck and I get to loose 20 lbs ish. Cooling the truck would be less of a chore as I could run one fan instead of three. The balance of the truck would be slightly better. Probably have a little better weight transfer as the truck is kinda usless on the street AKA tire shreader.

    I am not really seeing a big down side as I doubt the spoolup would be any different since the length away from the motor would not be alot more.

    ANy comments are welcome. :2thumbs:
     
  2. CUUDAK

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2010
    Isn't heat loss a factor on the hotside?

    There is a Vette down here that is pretty badass with 2 at the rear!

    You could also mount the intercooler under the truck with fans? :huh:

    I bolted lead bars to the inside of the frame rails for weight issues involving traction, but it was on 500"s n/a.
    O yeah, I had 33"x18"(33-21.5-15) Mickeys on the back :D

    ass of dodge.jpg #ad
     
  3. turbofreek

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2004
    You have a big block and a turbo. Your lucky the tires don't explode on the street.
     
  4. furious70

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    You're talking about moving 100lbs on a 4000lbs truck. 2.5%. IMO you'll never feel the difference in a vehicle like that. In a road race car, sure.
    Is it overheating now?
    I know you have long winters and need something to do, but man....maybe you should learn to play chess :p
     
  5. turbofreek

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2004
    I just think his ground up there by the north pole may never thaw out?
     
  6. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    Maybe my brain is just frozen. :stupid: I like the idea of being able work on the motor when it is warm but I doubt it is worth the money. I don't mind the effort at all but $$$ are harder to come by.
     
  7. CUUDAK

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2010

    $$$$$$??????

    I just blew $5000 on parts. I am tapped. Got alot to do though.

    Since I was laid off last August money is at a minimum. Got a few resto's in my drive right now. Gotta do a mechanical resto first on a 67 RS/SS Camaro sitting in my drive then end of summer the rest gets resto'd. I know to expect 2-3 months at the machine shop! Plenty of cash to be made I just need to get off my lazy keester and get busy.

    Get that puppy ready to paint??? Avatar looks to have it in prime?
     
  8. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    It does need lots of body work and a bit of frame strightening. I really should put my efforts there I suppose. I hate body work... Although I do have a plasma cutter just screaming to be used. LOL Drivers floor board and a couple rockers will keep me buzy. :bow: I have a ton of wiring to do... Guess I should stop talking about it and get at er'.
     
  9. Fury Fan

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2006
    I'd say, most respectfully, that you'd be nuts to re-work your setup -- 'cuz it works! You're miles ahead of many of us (myself included).

    For traction issues, you'd be better off to put some ballast in as somebody mentioned, and put it behind the tires if you want to unload the front. Have you seen the big waterbags made for ballasting pickups for wintertime traction? At 8lbs/gallon, it would be a cheap way to see what the effects are. Or get a 55gal drum and fill it up. Or put a swimming pool liner in the bed. :D
     
  10. dodge turbo

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2007
    lower it!!!!!.......i put van control arms on the front of mine...and flip the rear on the top the springs with caltracs, the flipped rear cured the spinning action, and caltracs were 380 to my door
     
  11. rdakota340

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2006
    Wait I heard that turbo's in the rear are gay LOL j/k,If you just build some headers and take the manifolds off would be a + you know you can do some more chassie work to get that boat down the track look at our good friend Blown385 :bow:
     
  12. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    The traction thing is a issue on the street but I will not rework my setup. I have the fuel cell as far back as it can go, battery is back there, have the cal tracs, 180lbs of balast, plus a tonneau cover, it is lowered front and rear about 3". Guess I should get some real tires before I bitch to much. I have been looking at some 325/50R15s nitto drag radials to run on the street. If they are decent I could run them on the track as well. :cheers:
     
  13. wantabe

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2010
  14. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    What I have should have done was built a new gen Hemi with a remote mount turbo and would have taken 300lbs off the nose and put 100 lbs on the back. LOL It wouldn't leak either... :cheers:

    Oh and put all that in a Dakota. There... Problem solved. :2thumbs:

    If I have 2400 lbs on hte front end and 1600 on the rear end that is a 60/40 split. I take 100 lbs and put it on the rear take it off the front and it becomes about 57/43 split. But adding that 100 lbs to the rear when it only weighs 1600 that is a 6% increase to the rear weight. Still not alot but it would help. Doubt it is worth it but if I combined a bunch of this stuff it might be alot better.
     
  15. rdakota340

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2006
    I have heard some good things about the new Hoosier drag radials, anybody else!
     
  16. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    Before I had a melt down in the main wiring harness of my truck I was going to go with 18s. The rear was going to have 305/45R18 mickey thompson drag radials. Would have loved to do that combo but it will have to wait for a while. I have cut the harness front to back on the truck so at this point I am not sure I will be running for spring. I will take my time and not rush. The list keeps getting longer LOL. Main harness, rebuild all of the home built harness with wiring diagrams, convert ignition to EDIS-8, install meth injection... I think that is it. :bow: Oh and I bought a plasma cutter so I will probably have to install my drivers floor board after 6 years. :welder:

    On the drag radial thing if anyone has good or bad to report about some I am willing to listen. :cheers:
     
  17. dodgestrike

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2010
    do you have a fuel cell ? if not you could install a ramcharger fuel tank and transfer some weight to the back of the truck.
     
  18. turboplymouth

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    I like my mt drag radials. Seems like they might last on the street too. The tread on my et streets rolled up real bad from hazing them all the time, the radials don't do that. Weird b/c the radial is supposed to be a softer compound, maybe they are'nt spinning as much.
     
  19. furious70

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    So with all that work already in progress on the truck, YOU ARE DEFINITELY CRAZY!!!! :p
     
  20. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    Long winters with little sunlight. LOL :doh:

    Yeah a fuel cell. It is already as far back as you can get it in the box. That was one of the first things I did to get better traction. I actually started with a fuel tank out of a ramcharger then eventually upgraded to the cell.

    Yeah that sounds good. I have heard the NIttos have a pretty long street life as well. I like getting new tires, just hate paying for them. Thanks for all the feedback guys. :2thumbs:
     
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