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Thinking about upgrading turbos but not sure..

Discussion in 'Turbo Tech Questions' started by KEVINS, Jan 1, 2023.

  1. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    Going to go back to the dyno this Spring to push these 60mm hair dryers harder but I know they don't have much left in them so I'm pondering changing them to help me get to 1000+hp. I was trying to find the specs on them but all I can find in my files is the below info:

    These billets are custom built for my application by Brian Bissonette and in his words "will make 1000hp without breathing hard."
    I'm not sure of all the specs but here's what he did tell me they were: T04E-60 trim, Stage 3 wheels, journal bearings, .63AR. I believe they have Garret parts/center section.

    I did measure the compressor wheel and the inducer part measured 59mm, the exducer measured 76mm at the "base" and 80mm at the very widest part of the vanes.

    When he was quoting the "cast" wheels he said that those will support 110lbs/min and really hit hard between 15 and 20psi with a little cushion and he said that these billets will add a little more.


    Car:
    2002 Mustang 2V
    Max Ported PI heads with ported matching Vic Jr
    Custom Cams (cam card)
    4R70 auto
    2800 triple disc lock-up converter
    Full length 2 1/2" exhaust
    3 mufflers
    E85
    Boost 32psi
    Car has dyno'd 900hp by 6200rpm (graph) in full street trim.

    At 24psi it made 840hp
    At 27psi it made 870+hp
    At 32psi it made 902hp

    [​IMG]#ad


    [​IMG]#ad


    I'm thinking it's going to take 40+psi of boost to make the hp through these heads and exhaust system.
    Because this is a full-on street car I go against what most people recommend for turbos in that I prefer to have smaller units but push them harder. Yes, this will probably put them out of their "desired" operating range but since it's a street car I prefer the quicker spooling especially with a 2800 stall but push them a lot harder.

    I made a quick test run that lasted 7 seconds starting in first and going through 2nd gear up to 115mph and the intake temps started at 70* and went to 110* over the 7 second WOT run.

    I would also need to transfer these exhaust housings over to any new turbos since v-band rings were welded onto these.

    Any thoughts on these or an upgraded pair?

    [​IMG]#ad



    Kevin
     
    Pro-SC likes this.
  2. Russell

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2019
    It's probably makes 1k at the crank. Dumping the exhaust with a cut out might give you the extra 100 to the tire?
     
  3. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    Not gonna happen.
    It's closer to 1100+ at the crank but the goal is to have it make the numbers in full street trim.

    The real goal is to make enough power to propel this 3600lb car well over 150mph in the 1/4 and do it by power braking it with a 2800rpm stall and doing it in full street trim, except slicks will be on it.
    Right now I think with the torque and HP it's making it's close but I don't think it will get it there.

    ks
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2023
  4. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    Quick Update:
    Brian Bisonette built these turbos specifically for my application so I posed the question to him and he gave me good news:

    "110lbs/min is enough to propel a 3600lb car to well over 150mph. If the engine has decent VE you can just go up in turbine and compressor wheel to pick up power. Intercooler pressure drop is what id be watching. If drive pressure isn't rising much per 1psi of manifold pressure id just run the turbos all in and see where they go. Anything done to the hot side that's larger will slow spool down. A pair of G30's 770's would probably be the fastest spooling thing and you'd have to be sure there's no restriction. Any restriction at all and you wont ever get there. You might need more head/cam to get there unless that was already in the plan with the increased rpm."


    The largest unknown in my combo is how much exhaust restriction I currently have but it looks like these turbos may be capable of a bit more so I'm gonna plan on cranking up the boost and monitor the hp gained/boost increase and see where it ends up.

    ks
    Here's no restriction at sea level with:
    upload_2023-1-8_9-13-5.png #ad
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2023
    Disney Lincoln likes this.
  5. FlatOut

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2020
    is this MPH goal ever been tested with the current combo? What does it trap now? You may leave a little ET on the table coming off a foot brake but MPH should still be there. Sounds like your more interested in the 4 digit dyno number than the MPH. I would think 900whp would get your that 150 number you desire. Without knowing the rest of the car, not many tracks are going to let you make more than 1 pass trapping 150 without a lot of safety stuff that usually isn't found in a full street trim car.
     
    Briansshop likes this.
  6. Russell

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2019
    I like the goal of 150 mph in the quarter! Dynos are fun, I look forward to the next Dyno day, but I have never cared much for racing dynos / Dyno queens.

    I agree I like the full exhaust on my car. It's easy to get caught up in the want to go faster and adding a cut out to my down pipe looks like easy picking. Pulling a cap or even one of the electric or boost open valves. Is what I am thinking about. I need to pick a goal and stick to it. Next projects include wheel speed data and flex fuel. I would like to run 10's but I need to worry about getting into the 11's first. The real goal is to have a fun street strip car. I think I need to get rid of the spool first.
     
  7. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    The goal has always been 150+ in complete street trim, full interior, full exhaust with three mufflers, etc - except with slicks. I don't care about dyno #'s or ET.

    The more research I do the more it seems 900hp will be on the verge and it depends on the car so it may or may not be enough especially at 3600lbs. But I'm confident that 1000+hp will be enough so that is the dyno number I will strive for but I'll accept what it makes.

    You're correct, I will get ONE single pass due to lack of safety equipment then expect to head home and for this reason I want to make sure everything I can possibly think of is flogged, tested, etc before I pull into the water box. I have a lot more testing/flogging to do but I feel it will be ready this year but if not then I will try next year or the year after - it doesn't matter to me when I run it. I won't waste the one single chance I get.

    ks
     
  8. bbi_turbos

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2021
    Your out of turbo, looking at the 60 trim compressor map, you're already outside of it and heading into a worse direction. Not saying the current turbos won't get there, it'll just take alot because they're heading into worse and worse efficiencies. You'll be asking for 65lbs/min @3.72 pr out of compressors that stop at 50lbs/min and 2.9pr. The 2.9pr is peak, peak flow happens at ~2.3-2.4pr.

    At 65lbs/min @ 3.72 the turbine will be doing an expansion ratio of ~3.0 with exhaust flow around the 36lbs/min area. I agree with the g30-770 but with the 1.21 housing. You'll still be wastegating a good amount.
     
    KEVINS likes this.
  9. Russell

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2019
    1. Where do you live? Have you looked into the land speed type events: Half mile / mile? They are mostly on my old airports. If you don't care about ET then it might be the place for you. If the ECTA was still in Maxton, NC that's what I would be doing. Mile racing is my happy place. 1/8 and 1/4 are cheaper and more convenient.
     
  10. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    I'm talking about 150 in the 1/4..

    ks
     
  11. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    Just for giggles I ordered three pressure xdcr's and I'm going to try and log the pressure just before the IC (not sure where I'm going to install this one), the exhaust pressure feeding the turbo (unused O2 bung), and pressure in the exhaust after the turbo before the muffler (I think I have an unused O2 bung in the pipes).

    I'm curious to see how the pressures read so, good or bad, I will try and report my findings.

    Also, I'm modifying the WG's to increase boost on the springs from 18psi to around 27psi.. I added a different spring which upped it to around 23psi during testing but I need about 4psi more. The idea at this time is to machine a spacer to increase the spring pressure so I'm going to machine a 1/4" thick shim and see where that puts it.

    I am bench testing it by feeding air to the WG and reading the PSI that it takes to just crack open the valve with my tire pressure gauge tee'd into the line. There is a 3psi difference between what it reads and what my boost gauge was reading - boost reads 18psi on the springs but it takes 21psi to move the valve.

    ks
     
  12. underpsi68

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2005
    Exhaust pressure will put additional pressure on the valve. You need to test it with the engine running.
     
  13. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    I know..


    ks
     
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