The biggest complaint I hear about copper head gaskets
are how hard they are to keep from leaking water and oil.

I was shown how to properly install copper head gaskets years ago buy Paul Vanderly, a locale engine
builder.

The biggest mistake people make is putting sealant on
the gasket, the gasket goes on dry.

The sealant to use is'plane ol black RTV' you know the kind that stinks like vinegar.

In the pics you will notice that I've placed the RTV around all the holes in the deck where water passes
threw the gasket and the same thing on the head.

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Look at the RTV that was placed on the end of the deck
and on the end of the head, this is to keep oil from leaking out from under the head.

The trouble you get into putting sealant on the gasket is
that the holes in the gasket are smaller than the holes in the block and head.

The larger holes in the block and heads are there to help
with sand removal in the casting process.

The smaller holes in the gasket are there to regulate
coolant flow.

This is how it's done.


Chris

 

We just role the RTV around with our fingers ovr the whole surface.. On all sides but be quick..
I have used teflon O rings around Oil supply holes and water galeries,, then add alittle more around O rings etc just before assembly...
With new gasket.. I torque it down and release two or three times to imbead s/streel O ring into copper gasket..
Last one I did I used coppe spray on gasket and rtv on head, block..
Getting older .. Time to get smarter...

 

I wait about a day and go over the studs again,
don't loosen them just put the torque wrench
on them and start applying pressure, you will
find that most if not all will move.

Then after a few heat cycles I let it cool over night
and repeat.

I do this torque check on all head gaskets.

It will surprise you at how much the bolts move
each time you do this.

Doing it in the car after heat cycling is a pain but the way
I look at it is I can put a torque wrench on them
under my terms or the motors terms.

 

me...two coats of copper spray on both sides..then a smear of rtv around all the water passages...torque twice. 38lbs of boost..9200 rpm...no problem.

 

My buddy used to have a funny car team and they did them all dry. They did it the same way, but no o-rings. Just torque and release.

 

Instead of the typical black silicone, use Reinzosil sealant.

 

i use 3bond white (product of japan) and smear it all over the block deck including over the orings, put the gasket down then all over the top side of the gasket. plonk head down and tighten studs. i have only done this twice with copper but never a leak

i go easy around the cylinder so the goo does not go into the chamber

 

Yep thats what I used...

 

i use clark copper gaskets with there sealant have always had good luck

 

If you find a way that works for you then stick to it.

All I was trying to do is point out where I have seen
guys struggle with leaks and not understand why.

I don't smear the hole gasket because I feel that the
ring around the cylinder doesn't get clamped as tite
as it could because the sealant is holding the head off
the deck.

By putting it only where it's needed you can pull the head as far as the gasket will allow.

But again if what you are doing works for you that's
all that matters.

 

We spray the gasket with hylomar one coat per side, after one heat cycle back each nut off [one at a time] and retorque. We have .041 o-rings. This setup works with 80lbs of boost, for us

 

I think the heat cycle and re-torq is key.

 

I run a wire in the block and flat head. I use a .060 thick copper soft. I use high temp silicone around all the water ports on both sides of the gasket then 2 coats of hylomar and install. After being torqued down I will brake the nuts loose one at a time and re-torque.

When I first started doing this set up I asked around on the boards. 10 people give 10 different answers. I just researched the different ways to seal them and the hylomar looked like it filled the bill the best. Moral of the story is as long as its machined properly you should be ok.

 

You don't run orings TTAWD? Have you had any issues at all without?

Thanks

 

They are SCE ICS gaskets, the wire is in the gasket. http://www.scegaskets.com/Chevrolet...-Gaskets/ICS-Titan-Head-Gaskets-p6754330.html

They have sealant from the factory but I don't trust that printed type sealant.