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The official build post. Twin turbo BBC, LCF50

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by Heavyhauler, Nov 16, 2017.

  1. Heavyhauler

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2017
    So with a little research, I put together of Crude build sheet of the “kit” I’m putting together for my first turbo build. Please take a look and make recommendations on changes or additions.

    Also. Any help on engine components is appreciated. Ie; compression, cam, timing, intake. etc. going with a Holley 4150 Blowthrough.

    Engine is a 15445 block. Forged steel crank. Other internals unknown.

    353049 heads

    Haven’t decided on building or buying headers. Opinions appreciated

    Borg Warner turbos
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/282088789424

    Twin intercoolers or two in, two out mustang one piece?
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/272861459999

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/382063851477

    Wastegate and BOV
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/401407487800

    Plumbing
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/172923600750

    Oil feed and drain
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/352127579117
     
  2. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    How much power are you wanting to make?

    Keep your compression low, maybe 8:1 or so. Between towing and boost you will not want it to be very high. It's much easier to up the boost a little to make the lost power than it is to have to nurse a too high compression motor that's always on the edge.

    Mystery rods on something that is this heavy and being asked to put out a lot of effort would make me nervous. At least pull the pan and see what is in there.

    If your buying a camshaft anyway going to a custom grind would probably be best for your unique application, it wont cost a whole lot more than off the shelf.

    I would look at having CSU build you a carb rather than buying an off the shelf holley. Fitech might be a good option in this build too.

    You wont need headers, stick with manifolds... It will save you some money to put towards other goodies. They will fit better and hold the heat in better. There isn't much to be gained from headers unless your doing a really high power build.

    Buy good quality oil feed and drain, these things are a pain when they are leaky and you want them to be reliable.

    That seems like a really sweet deal on those turbos, so good I have to question if they are real. I would at least make a call to Jose at forced inductions and tell him what you have going. You will need to have a power goal in mind, and an idea of where you want the power band to rest. He is incredibly smart on turbo sizing and the call could save you from having to buy turbos twice or being unhappy with the performance. I bought my s472 and s480 from him. Their prices were pretty comparable to any others I found.

    Your going to need a massive radiator.
     
  3. turbobill

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2016
    I built a single turbo 454 years ago for towing and to this day, it's still running well. Max boost is 11 PSI with water injection.

    As it's been 23 years since I've seen the inside of it, I don't remember what crank I used but I believe it's a factory forged piece. Rods are stock factory and the pistons are TRW 060" over forged pieces I had barrier coated. The compression ration is around 8:1.

    The cam is an edelbrock performer single pattern with 204 degrees at .050" lifter rise. Originally I had a performer plus with 214 degrees @ .050, but wanted to move the torque peak down a couple of hundred RPM. I used a total ignition advance of 22 degrees and for driveability and economy off boost, I have 22 degrees in the vacuum can hooked to intake manifold vacuum so that when the manifold is at atmospheric pressure or above, there is no vacuum advance.

    As for the rest of the engine, I used stock oval port, open chamber heads with the smaller valves (2.07 intake) and Manley valves. On the intake is a performer and a Quadra-Jet and it's a draw through system. When originally built in the mid 80's, it would blow by anything on the road pulling a similar load. With no trailer, the 6500 pound truck was a rocket.

    For the turbo, I used a TO4B with a hi-flow compressor. I used a .96 exhaust housing for spool up at low RPM and I'd have to look at it to see what I used for an intake housing. I turned the manifolds upside down and built everything else.

    The fuel mileage towing was in the 7.5 to 9MPG range when everyone else was getting 5.5 to 6 with 454 powered tow rigs. I geared the truck so it was turning 2200 RPM at 60 and it worked very well. I never turned it over 3600 RPM under load and it pulled great in the 2000-2400 RPM range on the road.
     
  4. William O'Neal

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2017
     
  5. Heavyhauler

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2017
    Jose at forced inductions gave me little direction. Everything is being ordered this week. Mock up starts next week
     
  6. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    Just to clarify, he gave you a little direction, or no direction?

    How did you decide on the 366's vs something like a s360? The 66's may be a little more turbo than you want for a tow rig.
     
  7. Twinturboengineer

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2013
    Dude that's sweet, nice combo. Dude I run twin T04B's on a stock 454BB Chevy with the waste gate set to give me 15PSI, and I'm running an 875 Aerosol Blowthru from C&S Specialties, with a HP 150 and an Aeromotive boost referenced regulator, thru a TH400 modified for strip and the rear gear is a 2.21 ten bolt lol... Give Roger a call at C&S and let him size the carb/jets for your application. So Dude have fun, and Dude don't forget to upsize your fittings to 1/2 inch and the fuel will sit vertical in the tank when you launch so get a rear fuel outlet, and Dude when the oil shifts to the back of the engine and leaves the sump dry, you might have trouble oiling those spinners man... have you thought about the delivery at all... remember, the fins on a torque converter will bend over and you'll snap the sprag, sending tiny filings into your trans, so get a "spragless" variable racing torque converter! so you don't crush your clutches and hammer your u-joints!
     
  8. Heavyhauler

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2017
    So here’s the latest update. Two s366 are on there way with 44mm tial wastegates and BOV’s. I’ve upgraded the fuel management to a FiTech 2x4, 1200 HP system. Two 6inch core intercoolers, a pair of up and forwards and some vband adapter flanges. The engine goes in for test fit this week, and subsequently, the turbos. Here’s a couple pics of the new IFS mocked up in the heavy hauler.

    79E87B57-14E3-4649-A9ED-EBDDC3435CA9.jpeg #ad


    688A2800-F45C-461D-88CD-6BDF15CE80D5.jpeg #ad
     
  9. Heavyhauler

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2017
    It’s been a while and we suffered some heavy delays due to fab work. But we have the engine and trans mocked up. Chugging along. Hopefully the body will be back on this weekend and turbo mock-up begins.

    6992CBF8-3E48-422A-9229-46C23780736B.jpeg #ad


    1C413574-A14B-4A48-8DBF-A9AA64300B12.jpeg #ad


    B5E4E85C-F3A5-419B-BF81-F18635F51431.jpeg #ad


    9D30AD72-00C0-4049-BCFB-39BA48A73C19.jpeg #ad
     
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