I'm in the planning stages of a really absurd turbo project. I recently picked up a 72 Chrysler Imperial that will inherit the twin turbo system I was running in my 65 Plymouth. This will be a relatively mild setup with a goal of 550 to 600 rwhp.
This time, I plan on remote mounting the turbos for a cleaner under hood installation.
I will be running EFI.

What are the most common issues that pop up running a remote mount system? One thing that I'm concerned with is the air filter life. That has to be shortened drastically. What about return oil pump life?

I ironed out the issues I had with my conventional TT setup and ran them for more than a decade.

My turbos were small for a 440. I liked 'em that way since the hot rod was a street car. The are T4/T3 hybrids built with genuine Turbonetics stuff. T4 60-1 wheels on the cold side and T3 Stage III wheels in Stage III .96 A/R housings on the hot side. They spooled instantly on the hot rod. I expect them to be a wee bit slower to spool 12 feet from the engine.

The Imperial is a MASSIVE barge and will be used as a cruiser. I'll only take it to the track a couple times just to see what it does. That means 99.999999% cruising between stoplights and on the highway.

 

need a picture or 3 buddy...

 

Here's a Popular Hotrodding article on the donor car: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/0711phr_1965_plymouth_belvedere/index.html

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This is the same year and color barge that will be getting the goodies:

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Mine isn't that pretty yet. I plan on a slightly lower ride height, tinted windows, and an appropriate set of wheels. It will be quiet and mild mannered for cruising and road trips. The car is all black and should be rather unique when it's done. I'm done with obnoxious hot rods. I want to arrive in style.

I'll start working on it once I finish neutering the hot rod and sell it.

 

ok..here's a few ideas... b to fine tune the spool, but the turbos u have, this shouldn't be a problemut take it as a grain of salt... never done a rear mount

the turbochargers gain the drive on the turbine wheel from a couple types of energy..pressure drop and temp drop across the turbine wheel is important. gas flow also is important.
density of the gas also plays a part..cooler the gas, more dense the gas can be...different types of fuel give vast differences too..eg diesel, and methanol fuels.

soo, having rear mounts, the gas tends to be cooler, therefore the space occupied by the volume of the gas is smaller.. a/r of turbine can help in this department...i dont think ur goiong to have a probelm here tho..
the turbine size, dictats the flow, or HP of the system..stg3 turbonetics will sustane up to 500hp each

aircleaners on the compressor side, can sometimes be too small, and causes the oil to be drawn from behind the comp wheel, into the boosted air..bad thing
it also causes too much load on the thrust bearings . leading to failure
we found about .1 - .15 difference in ET from aircleaner, to no aircleaner, on same tune and same track... bout 5-8 mph

there are many different types of oil pumps, for the return oil..
other rear mount guys can heap u there.., but i would use a 'sump' , to pool the much air rated oil, exiting the turbo drains, before being pumped back to engine sump..
stand alone oil system for rear mounts are also done too..

 

I used an STS kit with twins and my biggest problem was oil control. I look into some of the suggestions Ash mentioned like having the turbo drain to a resivior and pulling oil from it, or even a seperate oil system all together since you have a large trunk. I was considering the later on my car before I lost my motor. After that I just went to a conventional setup.
Thanks Mike

 

Id love to do something like that some day down the road... but itll never happen. Dont you have enough room under the hood on that barge for the twins??? I dont know if Id do a rear mount THAT far to the rear on that long of a car. I have a rear mount 408 dakota, TC76, and spool is great but on something that long I just dont know.

 

Oil control was an issue with my sts system on my C5 corvette also so i set up a self contained oiling system. Pretty simple really, two Exa Trubowerx pumps (pressure -4 size and suction - 10 size), a pressure return line to regulate pressure with an appropriate sized orfice (i use a .060 holley jet) and an oil tank. You must use a pressure return so it doesn't overheat the pressure pump and to regulate pressure, i have mine set at around 40 pounds with my journal turbo's. Best of luck tracy

 

Tracy, how hot does the oil get?

 

The resevoir doesnt have to be very big. On my car i cured my oil drain issue by welding a 6 inch piece of 1.75 roll bar tubing to the drain nipple as a resevoir.

 

I'm not sure exactly. My BB turbo's were also water cooled so it was approx at engine temp which was around 180ish..... now i just went to some journal 6262's and it is oil cooled only so the temps definitely went up. So much so that i am adding an oil cooler and temp gauge this weekend. My guess is the oil temps with the journals are 220ish but i won't know exactly till i install the temp gauge. I wiill update the thread with my cooler results.

 

On your pressure return do you mean that you set up a pump to draw oil from the turbos and pushing it back to a reservoir?

I have considered a stand alone oil system as well as an engine oil system. I do have a number of oil coolers in my garage. There are a couple electric fans too.

On a separate oiling system do you suggest this routing?
oil tank - pressure pump - turbos - turbo reservoir - return pump - cooler - return to tank

Just want to be clear.

As for the reason to remote mount, you haven't looked under the hood of this beast. There's all kinds of stuff in there. I could easily make room but would never be able to service the engine. The hood doesn't open very far and the engine is waaaaaay back there. The radiator support is about 2 feet back from the bumper. Combine that with the low hood opening and the spark plugs are a PITA to reach in stock form.

Put the engine in one of those engine shipping crates. Stuff it in the bed of a pickup against the cab. Now stand beside the truck and service the engine. It's the same thing.

 

No, i should have explained it better. On the pressure side of the turbowerx pump, it "T's" off and one leg goes to the turbo's and the other leg is used to regulate oil pressure and return oil back to the tank. You can regulate pressure by using an appropriately sized orfice in-line on that return leg. The smaller the orfice that is in-line, the more pressure you willl have going to the turbo's. The second turbowerx pump is used for suction and returns hot oil from the turbo back to the tank. Yes, your routing is correct..... just make sure the "T" is there on the pressure side of your pumps, one for turbo's and one for pressure return. Best of luck, tracy

 

So what your saying is that the pressure return line is like a fuel regulator with a by pass return line back to the tank.

Looks like the second/return/suction pump wouldn't need a pressure return, correct?

Not to hijack this thread, but I'm very near to this stage of my project. I have a mini truck with a Ford 363 engine, and plan to have the turbo's in the bed just behind the cab.

Since I'm using a Dart block there are several tapped oil pressure holes, and I was thinking of just using the one in the back to run the oil to the turbo's. Are you saying that engine oil pressure isn't enough? Like the op I just want to be clear. BTW great post.

 

Engine oil pressure is more than enough for the turbo feed.

We were talking about running a separate oil system for the turbos separate form the engine oil.

 

Gotya, thanks.

I actually had a post last year on this site about a separate oil system. I thought in a situation like yours it would be better than having the oil going all the way from the engine , and back.

 

Have been running a remote with a self contained oil system for part of the summer. Using an EXA pump to pressurize the oil to the turbo from a 4+ quart reservoir under the turbo. Dead heading the pump into the turbo with no bypass or regulator. It has worked so far. The oil does get hot and the pressure drops to 25-30psi after 25 miles or so. Pressure starts at 50-70psi cold. Still debugging the car so not a lot of miles on it yet.

Plan to add a bypass and maybe an oil cooler this winter.

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Yes, without a bypass, the turbowerx pump will get pretty hot and i would imagine shorter its lifespan. With the bypass, the pump pressure stays consistant....in my case, cold pressure is 40 and hot pressure is 36 or so. This is my daily driver so i have several thousand miles on this oiling system without any issues. Best of luck!

 

I'd like to try a remote setup but the pump life kinda scares me. I hear the oil heat is what kills the pumps. I'd only consider a self contained system too because i do not want to run lines all around the car from motor to rear turbo.

 

Another question I have...are those pumps ok to run dry? Is there ever a moment during the draining process on a journal bearing turbo, that the return pump will suck the drain dry?

I assume the supply line is providing oil at a much faster rate than the drain because thats how it works on a gravity drain conventional system.

 

the turbowerx exa pump has a continuous flow lifespan of 10,000 hours!!! The pump can be ran dry without damage according to their website facts. It is a real nice pump, both pressure and suction work great