I would like to introduce my 87 Mustang. I got it as a roller 5 years ago. Mostly stock with a tube k-member, manual rack, 6 point bar, subframe connectors, solid uppers, solid lift arm lowers 4.10 / spool / 33 spline / C-clip elim. I parted out an 89 used dash, lines, wires, t5, etc. Engine is a 93 HO stock from the TB to oil pan.

It is a garage queen most of the time. I have taken it on Dragweek twice '18 and '19. It sees tnt as often as I can work it in the schedule, and around town trip when I can.

I have wanted a turbo mustang for over 10 years, and it might be a year or two more before I do the install. I am currently doing some body work and installing the Holley Terminator X. I would like to learn tuning N/A, and get as many supporting parts before building hot/cold side.

Number one goal for the car is to be fun to drive. Second goal would be to have 10.0x bracket car and try to compete in SME at dragweek. I am a terrible bracket racer, and the engine will more than likely need to be replaced so its a far fetched goal, but I also don't want to have to upgrade the same parts twice if possible

 

Picture of stock mustang engine, before I started removing the writing harness.

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Sounds like a cool turbo project. A 3.31-3.55 rear gear would be a better choice for a turbo. If your using the t5 trans with a turbo it’s gonna have a short lifespan especially with sticky tires. An automatic would make a more consistent easier to drive bracket/fun car. I myself like my 5.0 turbo mustang with a manual transmission

 

What transmission is in your car? My t5 is long in the tooth. It's had a hard life. The only thing keeping it alive is the Lucas AFT fix. I have a spare t5 but I think it need a second gear. I figure I will burn the transmission bridge when I tired of fixing/replacing the t5.

I don't mind changing the gears if it still fun and quicker.

 

It will be. I've had to convince many guys who think a turbo is a blower. Turbo needs load to spool. A 4.10 kills that load. Jmho

 

JMO,the easiest, cheapest path would be to step up to a 351w/auto trans combo. Do it now before spending $$ on parts that only fit the 302. The stock 351w will hold a lot more power than the 302,and when you hit the limit of the 302,the only fix is to turn it down or step up to an aftermarket block and rotating assy.

 

What I have spent money on so far that that are not in line with the 351/auto. SFI bell housing / flywheel (I really like my feet). I might should have gotten the Terminator X Max so I could use an electronic OD transmission in the future.

The only thing I can think of that I might buy that might not work on 351 is a good balancer. Seems like a lot of guys say it helps the 5.0 live. Not sure if any of the good ones come with removable weights.

The Hot/Cold side will need to be redone or modified, but I plan to make my own so not really worried about that.

What am I not thinking of that I will need to buy twice if I turbo the 5.0 then step up to a 5.8?

 

You’ll need the intake at least a lower if you have a good aftermarket intake that doesn’t hold you back on power since the 351 is wider. An oil pan , a 28oz balancer, a 28oz flywheel , a distributor.

 

Right now it has the stock intake. I have an Explorer intake I could put on. Have no plans to buy intake. No plans to buy a new oil pan or distributor, or flywheel. The balancer on it is a Ford replacement with about 20k miles on it.

Do I NEED a balancer? I don't see it increasing HP, it might increase life span?

 

No,I wouldn't bother w/a balancer.

What's the car weigh? 10.50 ET @ 3000lbs will take roughly 550hp,about the reasonable limit for the 302...but with a turbo it's way easy to turn it up for more regardless of what you think your limit is at the start,LOL.

 

She is a big girl! Normally 3300ish. The last day of Dragweek I pulled the spare tire and sound deading out of the trunk and got it down to 3270. All I have done to this car is add weigh. I like the A/C and sound deading. I don't want to take any crash protection/ safety out of it.

 

If you wanted to put a 351 in those are the parts you would need . No one said a balancer will increase hp . But the explorer intake will increase it a little

 

Thanks for the list. The main things I don't want to buy twice: Turbo, A2A intercooler, waste gate, injectors, fuel lines.

 

A turbo big enough for the 351 might be a bit slow to spool on a stock 302. It would be a good idea to look at some compressor maps to make the best possible decision.

 

You could go with a Borg s300 series and add a second one when or if you decide to go with a 351 or stroker Windsor. You will also more need more injector for the Windsor but you should have no problems selling the old set when you upgrade.
A Borg s366 would be good on the 302 and a pair would be nice on a 408 stroker.
Just something to consider.

 

Not much to report on the Terminator X install. I have been unplugging and not cutting. Was thinking I could use the harness on another car some day. I got the small vacuum can out of the fender well and the solenoids for the air pump valves. Started to pull the O2 harness to find it connects to the low oil sensor.

I would like to keep my factory oil pressure and temperature gauges working. The wires run through the main harness and I think the go to the black and grey connect on the driver's side firewall. I also need to figure out a stand alone A/C harness.

Would other Ford vehicles from this error have the same connections?

The Holley instructions say the Wide band O2 should be facing down. The bungs in my H-Pipe are up. What will happen if I use the existing bung? False readings? Shorted sensor life? How much is a replacement sensor?

Is one bank on the 5.0 known to be leaner than the other? I would like to put the O2 sensor on the leaner side.

 

The wideband should point down so water doesn't pool in it, shortened sensor life is the trade off. If your running single turbo just mount the wideband after the turbo and you'll get an average, plug chops are the best way to see if you have a lean condition in a cylinder, the 5.0 aren't known to have issues specifically.
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You can find all your "salt and pepper" connections on the diagram above and keep what you like, full ecu pinout below. #ad


That ECM and harness was a really common swap into a bunch of different things for a long time so all of the connectors are available as repops.

 

By pointing down they mean the sensor tip faces down. It's easy and cheap to have a bung welded in. The instructions have a diagram so there is no confusion.

 

It comes with a bung, I have a welder, I think I can get it in, my welding is much better on a bench than under the car. I don't really enjoy pulling the H-Pipe. Holley sells the replacement O2 sensors for $106, and says they are special. Is this true or is there an over the counter sensor for half price? I know how to follow the directions, some times I just don't want to. Kind of like tell a kid to not touch the stove and they ask how bad is it going to burn me!

 

That is for the Bosch sensor, they recommend the NTK piece at twice the price, for forced induction.