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LS Turbo design build-help

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by verick, Dec 31, 2017.

  1. verick

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2017
    What I do have is a 1992 Fox body Notch back. I'm hoping to have her weigh anywhere from 3000 to 3200 lbs. I bought a 2010 L96 ( Iron Block Gen IV 6.0 with VVT and L92 heads ) with 135,000 miles on it. I would like to use the stock bottom end. This car will be 70% track and 30% street. I would like to run on E85, I have a E85 gas station 25 miles from my house. I will also put a Turbo 400 transmission behind it. I know I'm probably missing something or using the wrong part for my build but I could really use your advice and suggestions. Also if you have a link to where I could purchase these parts. Thank you so much for your help

    Camshaft- I want to get one from liljohnsmotorsport but I didn't know if one of his off the shelf turbo camshafts would work or a custom ground one. I want the camshaft kit springs, push rods, retainers etc.

    Head Studs- I know I want ARP's but I don't know the exact part number.

    Rod Bolts- I know I want ARP's but I don't know the exact part number.

    Head Gasket- LS9 but I don't know the exact part number

    Oil Pan- Chevrolet Performance Musclecar Oil Pan

    Headers
    - Flowtech LS Turbo Headers (Up and forward) 1-7/8" 304SS GM 4.8/5.3/6.0L V8- Polished Finish

    Pistons- should I increase the gap on the top rings from 0.015 inches to 0.028-0.030 inches

    Intake- I was thinking about a Edelbrock Super Victor EFI Intake Manifolds part #28215
    it has a 4500 throttle body opening.

    Fuel rails- Edelbrock Super Victor LS3 Fuel Rail

    Throttle Body- A 90mm or 105mm

    Transmission- what stall converter to run and size

    Rearend- what size gear

    Turbo- I'm going to buy a Billet 80mm T6 1.32ar from VSracing

    Wastegate- how many 1 or 2 and what size

    Coldside- what size pipe and BOV

    Turbo Hotside- 2.25 or 2.5. I like separate hotside at the flange

    A2W or A2A intercoller- If a A2A what size or A2W what size and do I run a heat exchanger.

    Injectors- I was thinking about buying the Bosch 210lb Injector Set of 8 EV14/EV6plug. I know people like these to match

    Fuel pump- I would like to use the stock gas tank if I could

    Fuel Lines- Keep factory fuel lines? or all new ones and if so what size inlet and return
     
  2. 91turboterror

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2013
    Yeah it would be wise to check your ring gap and make sure it's wide enough. How much hp are you looking to make? For gears on a fox it's usually somewhere between 3.08-3.55 depending on trans and tire diameter usually 26s though.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2018
  3. verick

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2017
    Thank you 91turboterror for replying. I will be installing rod bolts so why not check the ring gap right. What is a wide enough gap on the pistons? I'm shooting for 800 to 900 hp. The more I read and study up on my build I'm leaning towards 3.27 gears. I was thinking a 400 trans would be a better option for the street but I'm open to a power glide.
     
  4. Pro-SC

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2014
  5. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    .0065" per inch of bore is common for a build like yours so somewhere in the area of .026" on the top ring, and .028" on the second.
    2, or 2.25 for hotside. 2" has made about 1k hp.
    Stock fuel lines won't cut it, many are going -10 feed for that hp on E85.
     
  6. Forcefed86

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    900whp or crank HP?


    Camshaft- you will need the VVT delete kit deal as well. Basically a valley cover that plugs the DOD ports. LJMS is fine call them up and tell them what you want he will suggest a cam. (they sell the delete kits too I believe) Just about any of their shelf cams will make 900hp… more a matter of when you want the power RPM wise and what works best with your back pressure/turbo selection.


    Head studs - depend on the year of LS motor. There are only 2 styles. Pay attention the head bolts you pull out. They should all be the same length (gen4)


    Rod bolts – total waste of money for your goals. Run stock. If you do run them you need to torque them down and have a machine shop check for roundness. Then bore them true again and fart around with oversize bearings. I’d skip it all together.


    LS9 HG PN – google search box is your friend. 12622033


    Headers- 1 7/8 headers are overkill and will likely hurt performance… factory manifolds work great, no reason to use anything else for your goals IMO. Few of the corvette,GTO,Fbody’s came with a stamped stainless steel manifold instead of cast iron. These are lighter weight and work better IMO than most aftermarket headers. (more sturdy and hold heat in better)


    Piston gap – I go .022 - .024 on top depending on boost levels and base compression. .002 more on second ring. Should be fine with an intercooler and E85.


    Intake- Another area you don’t need to spend money on if you don’t want to. Any factory intake and TB will do what you want and more. Your choice is likely fine depending on the RPM range you want.


    Fuel rails- Stock are fine… your choice is fine as well.


    Throttle Body- Stock is fine… 78mm to 90mm is plenty.


    Converter- Call PTC. they will have you fill out a spec sheet. Go with the 9.5 billet converter.


    Rearend- what size gear – Tire size ? How high do you want to rev it? Do you care about cruise RPM? Should be able to trap in the mid to high 150’s at 900hp. This will play into your cam and intake selection as well.


    Turbo- good choice


    Wastegate- totally up to you. I like to run 2 cheap 38mm gates and run a divided hotside. 2.25” piping to each side of the scroll off each manifold.


    Coldside- 3” is plenty and usually the easiest, don’t need larger. 50mm BOV is fine.


    Turbo Hotside- 2.25 is more than enough.


    A2W or A2A intercooler- Depends on budget and an how much trouble you’re willing to go through. Icing down an A2W is a pain and not necessary for anything but straight race cars IMO. Garrett and Bell cores are some of the best for A2A. Treadstone is a good lowish budget alternative that is above the typical $120-175 ebay crap (which has made 900hp no problemo as well)


    Injectors- VSracing has the bosch 210’s I’d go that route.


    Fuel pump- Install a sump on the factory tank or run a surge tank. The 4303 Magnafuel is a nice heavy duty pump. I’d suggest a smaller pump in parallel to help with flow and noise. Cruise around on smaller pump have the big one kick on in boost. The 4303 is loud.


    Fuel Lines- ½” fuel lines are fine, but -10 stuff doesn’t cost much more so might as well… You’ll want the feed to the big pump to be a -12 from the cell.
     
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