Guys,I have not found any discussion about this especific subject.
What`s a limit of power output of small block chrysler,I mean bone stock engine (318,360) magnum or not.I `d like to know what is the weakest thing,block,crank,rods .....
I`m doing a 318 magnum bone stock with a twin MP. I`m hoping have no problem to take 550/600hp out of it.

 

Duner is making at least that much with an unopened 5.9, so I think you're fine if it's tuned well.

Looks like a trick setup - are those 61s? Search for Turbocuda's last posts in the dyno forum, he's making some serious power with those things.

What computer are you running? What car is that in?

 

Anthony,i´m not sure about de dimensions of '61,but I think these are a lot smaller,that is the closest thing I found to TO4E "46" trim,the turbine is a stage 1 T3,these are MP 802190.
The fuel computer will be (fueltech)very similar to microtech,allows to adjust fully spark and fuel curves.
The engine will burn alchool,(we have it on pump here in brasil) and the car is a dart
I`ll took some more pictures if you like.
Thank´s

 

Neat! Did you get your MPs out the back door then?

Fueltech, hmm? Sounds interesting...will have to research that.

Alky is cool - have some big injectors ready!

Yeah, more pics.

 

Head over to moparts.org

You will really be pushing it at 600. That's why they make the R3.

 

HAHA!!! Search "Duner," moparts n00b!!! How are the MP Orange box and SS springs working for ya?!?

 

LOL just posted on his other comment in the challenger build thread. I even nailed what site he mainly hangs at. .

 

I guess I'm just living right?

 

I hope nobody tells him about the magic pixie dust we all use to make them live.

 

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Damnit stop giving away trade secrets.

 

So, would you guys consider running a cast SB crank that has been cut .020 under in a race application? The reason I ask is that a buddy of mine has a shortblock that he has been having issues with. He is using a stock block, stock rods, stock cast crank (cut .020 under) and a set of Ross pistons (not sure what compression). He is having major bearing issues and will barely get 2 passes out of the motor before they spin. You should be able to take absolute junk and keep it together better than this thing.

We suspect that there is something wrong with either the crank or the block but we aren't sure what it is. Nothing is apparent anyway... The motor was machined/built by a super stock racer with parts he supplied so my buddy is starting to question whether he received this guy's junk that wasn't good enough for his super stocker or something.

 

Maybe improper crush on the bearings. Spinning con rod bearings? What RPM? Oiling mods if any? I am sure one of these guys can help. I used to rev a completly stock bottom end 318 to 6500 and couldn't kill it.

 

If the crank and block aren't splitting in half, you can't really blame them. See the "How long until it grenades?" post in the GM section to get a better idea of what I'm talking about. My vote is poor oiling (pickup may be uncovering on acceleration), shoddy machine work, poor assembly like CW said, or any combination of those.

Does this guy have an oil pressure gauge? How about a warning light? I thought I'd be impervious to oil starvation when I hooked up my big bad Autometer, until I re-connected the stock warning light. Turned out I was losing pressure (momentarily) every time I hit it from a stand-still.

At the risk of sounding like a young know-it-all twerp, I can't tell you how many "legendary" old local racers I've met....most are full of B.S., had 11 second cars at best (they never really ever say specifically how fast their stuff was, do they?!), have very old fashioned ideas, and don't really give a shit about you or your junk. It might be time to find a serious machine shop....my $0.02.

 

We don't believe it is poor oiling. The motor always has seemed to have good oil pressure and never loses any. He does not however have a idiot light, just a gauge. The motor is never taken over 6000-6500 rpm and is honestly a fairly mild motor.

Personally, I really suspect poor machine work. I was just kind of curious to see what people's feelings were about the crank considering that it is turned .020 under and being used in a higher performance application.

 

personally I would look harder at the rods. Streaching the bolts or bad big end bore size.

 

Being 0.020" under shouldn't make a difference.

Was the correct chamfer machined in for the bearings you're using? I also like the theory about the big end of the rods being whack, and the rod bolts as well.

 

I'm expecting either rod or crank machining issues. My buddy really just wanted me to ask to get the general opinion about the crank being that far undersize in a non-stock motor to rule that possibility out. He has really been stuck on that idea.

Regardless of what the issue is, the shortblock is junk after the last episode so I think he is going to be starting with all new components.