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slick inner tube problem... help...

Discussion in 'Non-Turbo Tech questions' started by Dave R, Sep 20, 2006.

  1. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    Hey guys,
    I'm going with tubes for my ET Drags now and seem to have run into a problem. If you look at the pic below you can see a threaded part with a brass nut on it. That threaded part does not fit through the stem hole in my wheels and I don't know if it should. I never used tubes before and am taking them to a shop to be installed but want to make sure I have the facts and right parts before I let them hack at them. Should the threaded piece fit through the hole and did you have to drill the hole out on yours? Is something missing from this pic? If I take the nut off, it doesn't leave much backing metal to tighten against the rim.

    Any ideas or suggestions???
    Thanks
    Dave

     
  2. makka

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2006
    looks like you need to practice yoyr space invaders skills! :chacha:


    look at it like this, if you drill the hole out, you are gonna have to run tubes for ever, no matter what tyres you run, sorry I cant be of more help
     
  3. fordz

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2003
    I drilled them out on mine.
     
  4. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    Damned Corral. It was the quickest place I could post the pics on. I plan to run slicks on these forever and run 8" rims for street tires, if I ever do drive it on the street. If drilling is what I have to do, then I guess I will.

    Any others that drilled them?

    Thanks guys
    Dave
     
  5. Robert1320

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2005
    Drill away. It is the only fix.
     
  6. hilly70

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
    I just used a dremel.
     
  7. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    I found MT's site says that you need to drill the hole out to 5/8 inch. That would put the threaded part and the rubber part out of the hole. I don't see how that would let the nut tighten up to keep it secure. Do any of you have any pics of yours installed? If any of you even bother going over to Corral, you can see the pic in the wheel and tire forum and know exactly what I'm talking about.

    Thanks for the help guys, I now know that I have to drill but I think the size is the new issue. My tubes are summit ones where they may be different in the stem area than MT tubes are. Summit don't have that info.

    Dave
     
  8. jmstekguy

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2005
    with the weld wheels i just used my step drill to drill out, then took apart the valve stem (brass piece) stuck a stainless washer underthe second piece, it looks awesome and clean, ill post pics tommorow, step by step
     
  9. gofastmerc

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2005
    Don't use tubes?
     
  10. ShaneH

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    The nut does not have to tighten down. It's just there to keep the stem from falling back in the hole before you air it up.
     
  11. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    Got it. Thanks guys.

    Why does everyone hate them. I've seen both opinion sides about using them. Nothing to sway me away from them though. If my tires would leak from the bead, I'd probably not put tubes in. I've had 2 sets of slicks leak from the sidewalls now and have seen a few others do so. Even when brand new. Don't know if it's how they stored them or shipped them or whatever. I can't keep enough air in them when in a long enough waiting lane. I like to concentrate on running, not if I'll have any air left by the time I stage. Unless someone wants to work for free on a race team for me????

    I'll go ahead and drill them out to the 5/8"

    Thanks
    Dave
     
  12. SWT Racing

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
    That is incorrect. You can buy metal valve stems with the correct bushing for the larger hole.
     
  13. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    Thanks for the info. Andrew, Shane, do you guys use tubes?

    Thanks alot.
    Dave
     
  14. chevyguy3

    Joined:
    May 19, 2005
    where can you get these? i have been looking for some for a while with no luck
     
  15. SWT Racing

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
    They have them at every auto parts store I've been to. Usually the metal ones come with the rubber bushings for either size hole.

    Dave,

    I have always used tubes in my slicks. But. . .I run a very small 26x8.5 slick. I feel the tubes give added stability on the top end, and the tire/wheel combo is so light as is, I don't think there is much to add by reducing roational mass. The last thing I need is to be skating around on the top end at 150 mph. Some like to run without tubes on the M/T ET Streets because the sidewall is a little thicker, but I can tell you that with my ET Drags, the tire has no problem wrinkling the sidewall, even at 15 psi. I usually get a mirror image of the painted on "M/T" logo about 3-4" away from the logo itself from the tire folding over on itself.
     
  16. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    Outstanding. I figured they'd add a little stiffness to the side swaying at the end of the track. I was worried they'd cause launching problems or inflate odd. I'm screwing the tires on too so slip is not an issue.
    Thanks for all the info guys.

    Dave
     
  17. SWT Racing

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003

    Just be careful when installing them so you do not tear the tube. I mount my own by hand and not on a machine, but here is how it I do it. I intall the first bead over the rim using little to no lube. Then install the tube with some baby powder sprinkled on it so it won't stick to the tire on the inside. Make sure you have the valve stem core unscrewed from the tube, and that the stem is positioned on the correct side of the wheel (some tubes have the stem offset from the center to minimize distortion when inflated). Once you have the tube inside the tire, screw the nut over the stem and reinstall the valve stem core. Inflate and deflate the tube several times to get any wrinkes out. Remove the valve core again, and mount the outer bead of the slick, using a minimal amount of lube. Once the slick is mounted, yo ucan reinstall the valve core and inflate to seat the bead. Once seated, you may continue to hear air leaks as the air trapped between the slick and tube escapes. I then deflate and reinflate the tire a couple times to make sure and wrinkles are out. Once done with that, I measure the circumference of each and stretch the shorter tire to match the other.
     
  18. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    Awesome. I'll be doing it this week.

    Thanks for the info.

    Dave
     
  19. Lincs 84 351

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2005
    It's worth repeating :D
     
  20. Dave R

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    Could you define "stretch"?
     
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