Exhaust is all done and now planning on the turbo drain... Ive got a pump from RBracing.com, but I was wondering if I should install some sort of vented catch can, or just plumb the inlet of the pump directly to the turbo. Thing Im concerned about is the amount of vaccum this little pump makes after its primed itself.... is that good or bad on the bearing cavity/seals???

 

If you run a vented can on the oil drain its not going to work, you need a closed can for the turbo to drain in to then the pump from the can to the pan. I don't use a can i use a oil reservoir for the turbos to drain in to then the pump from the reservoir to the pan.

One like this. Picture is off of Big Top GT car i built one like his for my twin low mount setup.

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What pump are you running?

I have a Jr. Gear puppy and i just got my car running about a week ago and i'm just running -10 from the turbo to the pump (About 3 or 4 feet of hose with a 90 Degree end at the turbo) and then -8 up to the oil pan. I was also wondering how it would affect the turbo seals/bearings. I don't think it will hurt it, most of the STS kits i've seen in their build galleries are using fairly small drain lines and no drain resevior.

 

Why wouldnt it work though? When I capped the inlet line with my finger to see how much vac there was the pump slowed down considerably and of course draws more current... So wouldnt this actually slow down the rate it which the oil is moved then? If there was a tank that was vented, or if I used a AN fitting with a 1/8npt port for a gauge take-off and vented it that way, the pump would be able to move at full speed at all times. Its going to draw oil if the tank/line is vented or not, Im just thinking slower without it vented.

My main concern was the amount of vac on the bearing cavity, if its ok or bad for it.

 

A good friend of mine and engine builder says not to run the turbo drain directly to a dry sump stage.
The drain should go to a vented sump. The dry sump can draw air through the seals and dry out bearings.

 

Jose at FI is the one that originally suggested that this is how I do it... and like I said, with the amount of vac that little RBracing pump makes, I was worried about something just like you described. I dont think that Im going to have room for a tank, so I think Im just going o vent the line with something like this



Run a 1/4" line to somehing like a KN crankcase filter up above the turbo.... should perform the exact same function as a vented tank.

 

I thought you were talking about a catch can with the filter on top which would let the pump suck air instead of oil , i put a bleeder valve on top of my tank and keep it just cracked open a little so it wont pull to much vac on the turbo when there is no oil for it to drain. The oil drains to the sump and the pump just pumps it back to the pan , it does pull a little vac on the turbo but not very much with the bleeder valve cracked. I used on of these like i use for my crank case vac setup and its cheeper also.


http://www.b2600turbo.com/Crankcase Pressure.htm

 

Great link man, thanks a lot! Sorry for the confusion!

 

No problem , i have an HP Twin lowmount setup and have been dealing with the smoking turbo shit for a year before i got it figured out.

 

hey guy's,
we run 2 plain bearing garrett 4202's rearmounted in the trunk, the oil drains through twin -10 lines into a sump that holds about a qt or so and is pumped back with a Weldon K9200-A oil transfer pump, we use the old 3/8 steel fuel line and return the oil back to the engine through the fuel pump push rod hole... it's a fairly simple deal and has worked without fail for the last 4 years or so both on the street and the track....cheers George.