I took my 91 Foxbody Couple Stock block T-76 turbo 5 speed back to the dyno this week. To compare last years tune with the Haltech on pump gas, 16lbs of boost and 13 degrees of total timing, to retuning on the Haltech with Q16 fuel, the same boost but adding some timing.

All Dynoing was done on a Dyno Dynamics with inertia at 100. THe dyno had a automatic weather station build in for correction. All hp numbers where at the wheels. I shift the car at 5800 but I took the car to 6100 on the dyno. We did have to change the ramp rate do to shocking the clutch and blowing through it so we increase the ramp to help it hold. BUT we did not change the inertia.

On the Pump Gas with 13 degrees of total timing and 16 lbs of boost, the car made 559hp and back it up with a 556hp

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On Q16 we added 6 degrees of Timing (with 19 degrees of total) .With the same 16 lbs of Boost. It made 652hp and backed it up with 646hp

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If you look at the graph, the header holding the turbo started leaking some. So the turbo started coming a little slower do the the leak on the last two pulls. No worries as the boost control will handle it when it is sealed and the turbo is big enough to compensate for it while we were on the dyno.

We had about 35 pulls on it by then. I was driving on the dyno so I may have had to much fun pull after pull, but if it was going to blow I would rather happen there and not at the track.


Before that happened we did notice a couple things with the Q16;

With just changing to Q16 and no adjustments in the Haltech we picked up average 10-12hp.

Also before the header leak right after the fuel change we lost 1lbs of boost.

Even though the fuel is Oxygenated we still pulled a little fuel out of the tune. From 11.2 AFR to 11.7 AFR

ON the pump gas if we made back to back pulls with out turning the car off we would see a hp drop (with out any tuning changes) by 20hp first and about 5-8hp the third back to back pull.
BUT if we shut the car off for only 3 minutes the numbers where back up to the original. So to be consistent that is what we did in between tuning runs.


The clutch was starting to slip and it is a Spec 3 Puck disk that I put in last weekend.
Time for a twin disk. I am hoping it will hold at the track first time out.



[video=youtube;NlyV7i5zAcM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=NlyV7i5zAcM[/video]

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Nice. Like to see the new track times.

 

If the weather holds, looks like this weekend I will be hitting the track. I will post up the results.

 

A hundred horse by changing fuel and adding timing, god I love boost! Can't wait to hear how it runs.

 

Update. I did not make it to the track. Going to a race this weekend though.

When I changed the clutch out a couple weeks ago I notice the drive shaft was to close from where a adjusted the rear end with it in. So long story longer I had to move everything back. Well when I drove the car on the street under power it would pull to the right some. So I had to blump bob and laser level it this weekend. I have not had a chance to drive it yet.

 

If you get a chance, I would love to see some dyno testing at safe boost and timing levels and only varying the AFR. I would like to see it at 10.5-12.5 and see how much if nay difference the AFR really makes. It's my theory that power won't change much at all with all else being equal.

You know... Just if you get bored....

 

sounds awesome, are you saving for your Dart block?

 

If i get a chance I will hit the dyno again. if I recall we had about 11-15hp with AFR changed from 11.3 to 11.8.

Yes I am working on saving for Dart block right after a ring for my girl. SO a little out. lol


A little update. I spent Saturday and Sunday at the track for our Local kyshootout this past weekend. My work sponsored a class at the event.

I had a frustrating couple days. The clutch seated in and the car spun the 28x10.5 MT tire every pass. Not to mention being out of the car for 6 months I was not as smooth shifting it as last year.

With the tires spinning I short shifted a couple times 1st to 2cd and no great sixty foots. I did have a personal best but for the power I am making now I was pretty unhappy.

The car went 1.46 sixty spinning with a 10.46@137mph. I went a handful of mid ten's and the only way to get the car moving was to let the car bang against the rev limiter after the launch as it was trying to gain traction.

A plus is I beat the ### out of it for 2 days and it is still living on the 652hp race gas tune.

I tried as much as I could at the track. Adjusting pinion angle ( limited to just the upper's without the tires hitting the body) Tire pressure from 15 to 12. Launch from 5000 to 4200. Shocks (strange 10 ways) from 0-5. Pulling timing our of first gear 0-10 degrees and lowering boost 8 - 15psi on launch and first gear only.

It was a frustrating 2 days. I am going to have a friend help look over the rear suspension and have called Dave at Team Z to spend some $ and take the car up for a tune on the suspension.

Here is a picture from the track, notice the tires flat with no wrinkle.
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anti roll bar will cure most of the issues. Fantastic numbers though!

 

What setup are you running?

The car hooked last year. with the airbag, BUT not now. Team Z seems to be the guys I am hearing about lately. I am sure there are others. I was hoping to use someone close to Kentucky.

 

Pretty much the same setup as you and I can't hook worth a damn. The airbag actually caused me to lose traction over 3 psi.

Have a few friends with low 10sec stick cars. They switched to an ARB and they just hook like crazy. 1.4 60fts consistently and the car is straight as an arrow.

 

I had 15lbs in the air bag. my best sixty was 1.46. Not great. I will give the ARB a shot. I need something. Maybe some driving lessons. lol

 

did you get the ARB installed,
what were the results??

 

Nice.

 

Fast chassis race cars in Mt Washington ky does excellent work.