Hello there,

I'm currently sourcing out information for a build I have in mind and this seems to be the place that's very informative.

My current set up as follows

Engine
stock block 302 ford (.30 over bore)
stock cam
stock crank
moroso main girdle with arp bolts
eagle H beam rods
probe srs pistons
trickflow twisted wedge 170 heads
scorpion 1.6rr
holley systemax intake
acufab 75mm throttle body
FFRP 42# injectors
pmas maf
walbaro 255

Drive Line
ford 8.8 moser axles
MM control arms
3.08 gears
stock posi (10k miles on it)
t5 with g-force internals (planning to upgrade to tko600)

Turbo Set Up
B&G hotside
3.5" downpipe
modified B&G cold side
precision 6766 CEA .96 ar
tial MVR 44m waste gate
tial 50mm BOV

this current set up was super fun for the street made 450 whp 475 torque on a mustang dyno on 9 psi.

This being a street car im looking for a set up that would put me around the 550-600 whp mark.

my first idea was to take my current set up but use a dart block since my rods and piston are rated for some descent power, upgrade my crank and throw a turbo cam in of some sort upgrade my fuel system and would probably shoot me pretty close to my goal.

my other idea was to go a 331 stroker which would cost me a lot more money and most likely have to upgrade my turbo size from 6766 to a 7675 or so which I have been reading. being a street driven car with a stick shift I find it more fun to have boost come on quickly do you guys think if I were to go the 331 route that my current turbo would suffice for my goals on 550-600?

all knowledge appreciated

thanks!

 

If I were in your shoes and had to make that decision I’d keep it a 306. The 331 with all your same parts will basically just
Increase your torque and your horsepower will pretty much stay the same which could be fun but is it worth all that extra money. You can just turn up the boost higher.

 

That's kinda the same thought I've been having. a descent HCI 306 makes around 300-320 whp, I imagine if I had a custom grind turbo cam in my current set up it would be somewhere in the ball park of 300 whp Naturally aspirated and at 14 psi or so I figure I could meet my goals at a lot cheaper of a price opposed to a 331.

It seems the amount of money I would have to spend to build a 331 properly to achieve slightly more torque on the bottom end isn't worth the extra couple of grand I'd rather put it else where into my driveline stuff.

 

You would be much better off going to a 351. 550-600 rwhp is going to give you grief with the stock 5.0 block.

 

He plans on going with a Dart block

 

My bad, didn't see that in the posts

 

done my research and talked to a few local engine builders in my area and pretty much to go a 331 I pretty much have to change everything except my oil pan and intake. pretty much we are talking 6k USD which for me converted is about 7.5k CAD.

doesn't seem worth it for me when all I am looking for is another 100-150 whp when all I really need to do is turn up my boost a couple of pounds being I change my block to a dart, throw in a descent turbo cam and a after market scat/eagle crank.

id be better off spending the money I would have spent on the 331 build into my drivetrain since its lacking even for the power I have now lol.

 

What are your plans drivetrainwise? Tko600 still? I know there is an upgraded version of the tko600 called the tko 900 might be something to check out and research

 

I've just had a quick search and come across what you were talking about from 'modular motorsports'.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=149

seems like a descent price for a 900 hp rated manual trans considering the brand new tko 600 is 300 usd cheaper. definitely worth running I think better off having something with a bit more strength then what the normal 600 has.

 

Yes the MMR tko900 the price is hard to beat.

 

I wouldn't change much if all you want is 550hp. Just upgrade your turbo a little bit and you're there. All this talk about new engines??? You don't need a new engine to get 600hp with a B&G turbo kit and a 302 with TFS heads. You need more airflow into the engine you already have.

 

Easy to make 550-600, keeping the stock block in one piece can be a little more of a crap shoot.

 

Yea true enough, I just wasn't sure I haven't seen very many builds where people use a 302 t to make 550-600whp why I thought I'd ask if going more cubes would be worth it... Turns out not as the cost would be not worth it for my goals in the end.

So your saying a bigger turbo is all I really need, well and a dart block aswell..

I don't have a lot of knowledge when it comes to turbo sizing for an engine but my turbo when I had bought it was apparently good for 935 hp (precision 6766 CEA) obviously depending on what application wether it be a 4 cylinder, 6 or 8. I would prefer to keep it if I could as boost comes on super nicely with this turbo with not much lag...max boost at 2900 rpms.

I've been in a 306 turbo with a 76mm (.81ar) with good flowing heads and intake, turbo cam and it was making peak boost at 3500 rpm which is considerably higher. I think a good size turbo for a street driven 302 is a 67/70mm but that's just my opinion.

 

I reinstate my claim that you should go to 351w. There are multiple builds on this forum of people running junkyard blocks well beyond your goals. It shouldn't take much to use the turbo kit you have on one.

 

If I was able to fit the 9.5 deck under the stock hood I would. I like the stock look of my car not really a big fan of cowl hoods. I've looked at ways before on making a 351 work, even making spacers for the k member to drop the motor and grinding out the hood bracing it seems people still have issues making it fit, but some have done it using a custom elbow off the old fuel injected edelbrock intake manifold.

 

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This is my car, couldn't find many pictures but this is the kinda look I like. Stock but fast lol.

 

Sounds like you have a plan and the money - why not add the aftermarket block, stay with the current cubes and maybe upgrade the crank. A correct cam and you won't need much else. That stock block is going to let you down at some point - stop the inevitable is my recommendation.

Then when next winter comes and 650-700 is a forethought, you'll have the bottom end to take it.

 

Hahah the money part is always questionable It's something I'm planning to have done for the following summer. I just wanted people's opinions on what path I should take and start collecting parts/save for what I need.

Till then I think I'll drive my current set up as it hasn't really given me much grief besides replacing the cooper RTV on the manifolds which isn't my favourite thing to do especially in the summer time haha.

 

Thats a great looking car.

Put a wrecking yard van 351 in it.

 

the car to E85 should be the first move. Once you are 100% sure you have the octane for the job, run a slightly larger cam, more gear, more RPM, and turn the boost up on the turbo you have. That unit is a pretty capable on a 302 bet you could run 14-15lbs as it sits.


Drop the power at PK TQ (use timing) and load (use gearing). Then ramp timing back in aggressively over PK TQ. We have a few stock block turbo 302’s are revving to 6800-7k and running 10 sec passes regularly at our track. Going by weight and trap speed, they have to be making 600ish. Several examples on youtube and FB too if you search. People split the blocks, pistons , etc.. tuning them old school “NA style”. New turbo tune method to make OEM parts last is to kill the mid-range power/load and pour on the top end power. (ok maybe not a new method, but new to the common shade tree tuner/mechanic)


$6k seems like a lot to me for a 600hp engine. If you want the most economical way to reach your goal, a bone stock 4.8/5.3 LS swap would be best. I’m in no way brand loyal to Chevy/GM/LS. But a fact is a fact. I’ve built several for WAY less than 6k and they all made more power than your looking for. A 4.8 with your current turbo would easily do it and I’ve paid as little as $200 (usd) for a complete 4.8 long block. You can also source an alum block 5.3 (paid $500 for my short block) and drop quite a bit of weight off the nose. I run alum 5.3 in a 93 hatch easily making your power goals and the car is super lightweight. I run the 4.8 in my “race car” and it’s an easy 8 sec ¼ mile capable setup. 351 is also a good option, but the LS is a better platform, period.


Good luck either way! Great looking setup.