I'm currently trying to add a turbo to my 5.9 in my 51 Cranbrook, some of you may be familiar with this build from earlier posts, I am having room issues and was thinking about trying to remote mount my single 78/75 turbo, I've seen STS kits that do this but I wanted to get some input on going the remote route rather than a front mount. I know I'll need to run a longer oil supply line and add a tank to collect oil from the turbo and an electric pump to pump back up to the motor, I have dual 2.25 inch exhaust currently and I think I'm going to run the 2 pipes side by side up into a merge that goes up to 2.5 single outlet into the t4 housing. so now i have a few questions at this point, if this is feasible to do should I run a muffler (straight thru design) after the turbo or just pipe out the back? I'll also run the waste gate open pipe to match the turbo exhaust, if I use a muffler I'll merge the waste gate back before the muffler. I have room at the rear of the car for this and if I am understanding correctly I shouldn't need an inter cooler either since I'll have the long run of charge pipe back to the engine? Sorry for the long post but I really want to get this sorted out so I can wrap this project up.

 

I’m not a big fan of rear mounting a turbo but it does work well. How’s the ground clearance under the car ? There’s a risk of damaging the turbo or oil lines from something bouncing up under your car or a pothole etc. be sure to use a good quality electric pump to return the oil from the turbo. That’s something you don’t want to fail. As for the muffler it’s up to you if you want to put it in. Dynomax and Pypes make some nice sounding mufflers. You can pipe the WG before the muffler that should be fine.If I were you I’d see how it sounds without a muffler and see if you like it. It shouldn’t be as loud as a N/A car with open pipes. If you run a muffler you can always add a cutout before the muffler and just uncap it if you want the option of open exhaust.I cant remember are you running efi? If you are carbed you can get away without an intercooler.

 

I have FI, there is more than enough room for the turbo and everything else so clearance isn't a worry, I can tuck the turbo up in front of the rear end and it'll be protected by the body and rear end housing. Remote mount wasn't my favorite way of doing this but I can't seem to get clearance in the engine bay where I need it because of steering or frame being in the way, I can't swap the manifolds forward so the pipes have to come up from the rear and I don't want this to look like a mess and just thrown together. There is just to much stuff in the engine bay.

 

So it sounds like a good candidate for a remote mount turbo then. To help spool it might be a good to wrap or jethot the pipes between the manifolds and turbo.

 

I'm thinking about painting the pipe work with ceramic paint and wrapping the afterwards.

 

Check out my build it might give you some ideas. I have changed a few things.

 

Remote mounts can work very well. Here is an example.... https://www.theturboforums.com/thre...2012-with-gt45-turbo-and-drag-radials.351607/ I personally would merge the 2.25's asap, and run a single 2.25-2.5 to the turbo, and an intercooler is always a good thing. Not much cooling takes place in the tubing.

 

I was reading that you should use no less then 3 inch pipe after 2.25 merge, but thats just some internet searching. I wanted to run this in the engine bay so I didn't really do research into rear mount set ups. I was originally going to go with water to air cooler and I still may, but I think just to get it running I'm going to skip the cooler for a little while, I'll be limiting to 7 psi max at first without cooler. I'm going to take the car to an exhaust shop to see if they have any ideas on running the pipes to keep the turbo up front, but I'm not going to hold my breath, I can't seem to get the pipes the clear the steering, oil filter, and tire at full lock. the oil filter isn't a real big deal I can relocate but the steering and the tire are going to pose some serious issues.

 

3” is too large for rear mount . It’ll slow response. You’d be better off with a 2.5” T4 flange. Merge the 2.25 pipes into a single 2.5” pipe

 

Okay, I'll go with the 2.5 if I rear mount. The info out there seems pretty conflicted about rear mounts so thats why I'm asking here first before I do anything. Thanks to everyone for the help.

 

I run 2.5 to 3'' to the turbo and 3'' cold side with Snow water meth system but I'm have 451 cubes and it spools just fine.

 

It should be based off na hp/tq numbers.

 

na the hp is about 250 and the tq is 330 ft lbs,

 

No need to go larger than 2.5 imo.

 

I just ordered a Spartan scavenging pump, but what size line should be used for the oil return, I currently have 12 an for the gravity return that is going away when I move the turbo, I cant seem to find a consensus on the size, I've seen anywhere from 6 an to 10 an.

 

Ive ran 6an on two setups between pump and engine with no problem .

 

what about between turbo and pump?

 

Ive ran 3/4 hose and 10an off turbo.
3/4 is draining straight down to pump. The 10an is 90 fitting at the turbo and pump is above turbo 8-10 inches. The pump I use is able to draw fluids and pump vertical several feet. Pump its self has check valve in it so no drain back from the pump.

 

I used a -10 to a sump, then -10 from sump to pump (up hill slightly), then a -6 return to oil pan. Don't remember a whole lot about it since it was like 6-7 years ago, but it's still going to day and driven almost every day.

 

I was thinking about going 10an or 12an from turbo to pump and maybe 8an or 10an from pump to timing cover where the current oil return is located. I wasn't going to use a sump because I don't want to have more stuff hanging out below the car than necessary, I've heard both ways on the sump that you need one and that you don't, If I can get by without one that would be great, which is why I am leaning towards 12an turbo to pump, that way there is a little volume for the pump to draw off of.