I switched to manual brakes using Holcolm's kit (which is Auto Specialties I believe). I'm still using the factory 5.0 master cylinder which is now going bad because I need to pump it at times to get the pedal height back up.

I'm looking for a bolt-on master cylinder that has good PSI pressure to the brakes for stopping. Also reduced pedal pressure would be nice, am I asking for too much? I DON'T want to do a full out brake conversion at this time.

Is there an after-market master cylinder that fits the above-described, or should I stick with the factory one?

Thanks.

 

We've use the mopar truck alum. one for years..same as strange unit.

 

Can you give a year/model because the local auto part "rocket surgeons" will require it before they walk back and pull it?

 

did you get that part # and what pedal rod do you use with the master?thanks

 

I'm going thru something similar. I have Aerospace brakes all around w/ 94 booster/master cylinder. I just replaced my hard brake lines and the fittings don't thread into the master cylinder. I can't really get any info from the sn95brakes website.

 

Use an earlier manual brake master like for a 82 mustang or granada, they have a smaller piston for easier pedal effort, You will have to convert your car with the 3-2 conversion if you already haven't, that is getting rid of the 3rd line going into the bottom of master cylinder and teeing it into the other front line, it is required if you have line lock. and you will have different size fittings but that can easily be fixed. If you go to like napa they should have a book that will have all the specs of master cylinders, like bore size etc, Find one that has a smaller bore like 3/4 or so, it will make a big difference.

 

Can anybody give me a part number or year/model on the mopar truck aluminum MS for purposes of telling the kid over the counter what to look up in the parts computer?

 

I believe you want a 1987 Dodge D250 with Aluminum Master Cylinder Housing. This based on my reading on the same subject, I haven't actually purchased one yet. Should be a 1 1/8" bore.

This one is less than $40 at RockAuto w/ a Plastic Reservoir:
http://www.cardone.com/Imagesftp/13/131860-01.jpg

Here is the Strange piece for comparison:
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/106.html

To anyone looking to use manual master cylinder with stock (rear drum) brakes, I don't think it's ever going to be great, you should put a rear disk conversion fairly high on your to do list.

 

:withu: I've done this many times. The 1 1/8 bore is perfect for a car with aftermarket 4 wheel race brakes. That master cylinder is common across all Chrysler 3/4 ton and up vehicles, such as the vans and trucks. I haven't verified but I think the half ton truck products used the same master cyl in 1" bore.

 

When i did my 5 lug set up I had to cut the hard lines that connects the MC and the proportion valve and replace original fitting with the SN fittings, I did get lucky because my MC came with the lines, and all i did was switch the fittings and it worked out. You will have to flare the brake line.

 

I was thinking of that as I still have the hard line/fittings that connect the MC to the prop valve from the 94. What brakes/booster/ MC are you using?

Hmmm.... I'm going to look into that MC. What Booster would you recommend w/ that MC Shane??

 

Manual Brakes, no Booster . . . .

Besides the MC, the adapter plate, and moving the rod up the pedal 1", don't you also need a shorter push rod? Is this an easy mod or can you buy the shorter push rods? (where, pn#, $ ???)

 

what kinda pedal feel do you have w/ the manual setup??

 

I'm glad I ran across this too, I had heard about that Dodge d250 mc on another site somewhere and saved the info. I never got a response on what the pedal felt like. Its been yrs since I drove a car with manual brakes, but I like the room it frees up. I'm hoping its not too hateful, I'm going to drive this thing on the street a lot.

 

The ASP adapter kit comes with the correct pushrod. You can grind the weld off on the one side and knock out the pivot and move it up an inch pretty easily.

 

With that master cylinder, the correct rod, and the pivot point moved up, it's nice and firm. That's with stock front brakes and strange rear disks. Not too hard. Instead of pushing down 3" before you feel the brakes engage like on a stock setup, you feel em start to work within an inch of travel of the pedal. I think it's perfect myself.

 

Thanks Shane, seemed like every other kit I saw either included a MC or was just the plate.

http://www.aspracing.com

 

What do you guys mean buy moving the rod up the pedal?

Does the MC-adapter relocate the MC to the pedal?

 

manual pedals in mustangs had the pivot point for the rod about 1" higher. This changed the pedal ratio. Most people who complain about manual brakes not having the same stopping power have not moved the pivot point. On a power pedal, you can grind the weld off the backside of the pivot, knock it out, redrill the hole 1" higher, install the pivot in the hole and weld it back up. If you get the pedal ratio and mc bore size correct for your application, a manual brake system gives far better feel and brakes as well or better than power systems.

 

Any thoughts on this?

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_pressure_multiplier.html