I know it isn't a Mustang but can someone look at these pics and see if there is anything that is wrong to the eye? Cannot get this thing to go down the track! Changing to a stiff sidewall tire and from a 4.10 to a 3.73. Thanks!

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How much power are you making... The more power the more critical the suspension setup is..

When I first put my car together..The first pass I made at the track, it ran a 5.88 at 118 in the 1/8th... Straight as an arrow..

After I upped the boost, it wouldn't make it much pass the 330 mark going straight..

Turned out that my car needed scaling.. I had initially give my anti roll bar a little pre-load on the passenger side.. That turned out not to be nearly enough.. When the guy put it on the scales, it was 70 pounds heavier on the drivers side.. He just cranked the passenger side roll bar link, until the weight was even across the back.. That was with me in the drivers seat.. Fully suited up, like when I race..

My very next pass at the track, was in the 8's in the quarter mile..

 

should be making around 1000 hp I would guess. I had the car scaled when it was at the chassis shop but I don't remember the side weights. I have since changed the rear springs to. I have a set of stiff sidewall tires on the way as well as changing the 4.10 gear to a 3.73 gear.

 

what type of pinoin angle do you have in relation to drive shaft??? can you throw some weight in the car an check it out???

 

Can you lower the back of the car any? It looks like the lower arm is pointed up a decent amount. A few of the quicker G-bodies that I have been around had the arms mounted in the stock locations, but the bottom control arm was pointed down slightly (lower side on the front).

I definitely think that the stiff sidewall slicks and the gear change will help out. Explain the rest of your suspension setup. Pinion angle, driveline angle, ARB preload, shock settings, rear spring rate, front spring rate, front shock settings, total amount of front end travel (from rest until the front tires are barely off of the ground), and anything else you can think of that would help out

 

It looks like your IC is way out in no mans land. I had the same problem at my ride height with the stock stuff and my 9". I moved the IC back and down by making taller ears for the housing. You may very well need to do the same. You may be able to get a set of bolt on "ears" for your rear from Dick Miller or one of those guys that will do the same.

 

Good point... With the lower trailing arms pointing so far up, that is realy hurting your IC. if you cant lower the car to level that lower bar out ,you may need to make some new mounts for the housing to corect your IC... in order to lower the car you may need to shit can the coil spring factory set up... If your class requires you to keep it see if you can move the upper mount higher to get the car lower... if not you may need to get some custom coil springs made to get that bitch droped down... Eibach will custom make them for a reasonable price... At the last company I worked for we had to have that done and they were the only ones willing to work with us to get it right... They can do a standerd rate coil or if you need it, Which I doubt you would though, They can do a veriable rate too...

 

i figured out the problem its easy look real close

 

what is it? let me guess, it isn't a Ford!LOL! No really, what is it?

The pinion angle is -2* and I don't know what the driveline angle is, I will check. the front springs are a set of Moroso springs that are 7 years old and were bought for a front end wieght of 1500 lbs. I am at 1913 lbs on the front as it sits now. The front shocks are Hal 12 way single adjustables set 2 clicks off loose. The rear springs are QA-1 14" 130 lb springs and the rear shocks are QA-1 12 way single adjustables set anywhere from 8-10 clicks off loose. I have no idea where the antiroll bar is set. Dusty Bradford met me a while back at Huntsville and kept adjusting on it until the car went straight and that is the night I went 5.95@120. The front end travel is what it is. I have no travel limiters on it at all. What is weird is that when the car was a nitrous motor, granted it wasn't making quite this much power, it always hooked. I did'nt have the antiroll bar on it so it always twisted. I haven't changed anything as far as tire size or control arm location from when it was hooking as a nitrous car. You can see in my avitar what it looked like when it left.

 

you are correct its not a mustang- sorry had to

 

that was just wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Sorry gerry but that should be a bonus!!! :hi: BTW what ever happened to robert1320's Chassis...

 

I wouldn't say it's in no mans land but Supe is right it's probably out there and high, Bring it to me I'll get it to hook, I've done a few G bodys

 

where are you at?

 

Detroit Michigan

 

Damn, thats a shit load of rim screws you have there. How many per a wheel are you using?

 

32 per side!

 

Yeah but how much more front end weight do you now have over the nitrous setup? I think your front springs could be part of the culprit. Take out the rubber bump stop in the upper front control arm if you havent already, thatll give you a little more travel in the front. On my car (granted not near the power you have, but its setup like alot of other serious G-bodies that I have seen) the front lower control arms are practically on the same plane as the front crossmember. Also, when does the car spin? Does it spin as soon as you let go of the transbrake, or does it hook for a few inches/feet and then spin?

How many passes are on your current rear tires? The stiff sidewall and gear change are definitely going to help, get them on and make a few hits and let us know what happens.

 

Is the car not going down the track straight, or is it that the car is blowing the tires off at the hit?