was curious the proper way to break in a built 4valve?
.020 over, manley pistons and rods.
baby it at first?
all out war at first?
500 miles?
1000 miles?
3000 MILES???

 

What I have been told and im sure somebody will correct me if im wrong but the mod motors are normally broke in after a few heat cycles

 

Proper? The one that my tuner prefers is use conventional oil and run it. Running it hard will help the rings seat better with the increased cylinder pressure. He broke it in on the dyno. Roller motors dont need to worry about cam lobe breakin just the rings.

 

so conventional 5-30 then swap it at 5 hundo to full synthetic?

 

That is a plan.. With the EPA getting involved and reducing with the mineral content of most motor oil I have used only Heavy Duty Rotella in the mustang.

 

I watched one of my favorite engine builders finish a engine on the stand and roll it right over to the Dyno...Within 30 minutes it was running. a few minutes later the oil temp and water temp alarms went away saying the motor was warmed up.

Within 2-3 more minutes he started making pulls....first one 680 horse N/A and he made many very close pulls to that within the next 20 minutes ended up with like 714 eventually as the high horse number.

I was shocked that more time wasn't used to warm them up and shut them down and wait and then restart them a few times and run them before spinning them 7,000 rpm. Nobody in the shop batted a eye...Normal practice.


So break it in like your going to run it....

 

Same here,let it warm up and start making pulls on dyno.

 

I agree.
That's the way we do it @ the shop.
We also notice the cars that do it, last the longest...

 

there is no right answer to this question, everyone has their own opinion on this.

 

broke mine inn, on the dyno and it ran fine..but i would listen to mmr and 99ttgt and put some miles on it before you dawg on it..

 

After I build an engine I take it easy while warming up (the oil that is) and then run it like it's at the strip. Seats the rings and ensures you don't have an oil burning motor. A motor with a lazy run in will remain lazy in my opinion. My last build was a n/a 327 and I drove the car it's in around the block a few times to get the tune sorta right and then drove it down the strip revving to 7200 rpm. Never had a problem with it and it's got about 2500 miles on the motor since the rebuild.

 

broke mine in with a couple hundred easy miles, changed oil twice, and let er rip with the turbo. Never had an issue. Don't burn oil, and runs strong

 

whats the comment about the rotella?

 

Shell Rotella "T" Oil, it's got a host of the anti-wear additives that have come up missing in most conventional oils in the past 3-4 years, including Zinc. Try Sam's Club and Costco for a decent deal on the gallon jugs of the stuff, most of the magazines tout the Rotella when they do a buildup and/or dyno session. Good luck bro'!


---==Temio Williams
Yuba City, CA

 

Rotella is junk nowadays. Your best using an additive package or using "race" oil.

 

ive always used mobil 1 full synthetic...

 

Name-brand examples of an additive package and/or a recommended race oil, please (some morons would consider Wal-Mart 10-30W "race" oil.) I'm also curious as to how Rotella is "junk".


---==Temio Williams
Yuba City, CA

 

i would imagine as far as racing oil goes royal purple redline and maybe amsoil?
i think as far as additives go maybe he's talking mobil 1, castrol, and valvoline full synthetics?
id also like to hear why rotella is junk?