I am still having problems with my cold oil pressure pushing oil past the seals of my turbos. I noticed on my spare heads that there are two sets of bungs on the heads which tap into the oil feed to the heads. First is the pressure in these feeds significantly less than pressure immediately post filter (the adapter that most of us tap into next to the oil filter), and second if it is lower pressure, would it be detrimental to the heads to tap into this on each (rear) side to feed the turbos? I have restrictors on each of the turbos oil feeds now, still an issue. Rebuilt them as well already, didn't do anything. I tried to install a ball valve, but the pressure changes as the oil heats up so it didn't do much. I was thinking of either getting an oil pressure regulator for a dry sump system or trying the head feed.

Any experience with the oil feeds on a PI or 2v head? I know this is how Mitsubishi ran the oil lines to these turbos (TD05H-16g's) on their cars, low pressure oil from the heads.

Thanks.

 

don't get oil from the heads...

 

Use a oil line restrictor.

 

Also running crankcase vacuum will help the turbos drain faster which might also help, it could be that it's not as much high pressure as it is not draining fast enough and backing up, did on my low mounts. Whats your drain setup ?

 

Turbos are same height as intake, drain goes to about 20 degrees for about 6 inches as it goes into oil pan (Not possible to fix ATM), above oil level , no uphill portions. I can't prove oil pressure, but it seems to smoke when I drive hard(er) without a warmup, which makes me think there is a buildup of oil in the pipes and then the harder driving makes the downpipes heat up enough to burn the oil up. I notice it when stopped at a light, small clouds of blue black smoke float past the windows. But it is not there all of the time, only when driven from cold a time or two and then driven hard. I have an oil pressure gauge that reads before the y that feeds the turbos. PSI is >=75 at cold and <10 at hot 800 rpm idle. It seems logical that the higher the measured oil pressure, the more likely it is going to be pushed out of the (cheap) turbo seals.

For Y2K2gt, read the post before answering. I said in the post I am using an oil line restrictor at the oil port of each turbo....
99gtTT, do you have any reason why I shouldn't? Would it cause the pressure to be to low, flow to low, both? Experience, theories? I appreciate the feedback, so please do not take that question the wrong way.

How do I increase vacuum? If I block the PCV filters, the back-pressure on the oil return lines would get worse, correct? A vacuum pump?

 

What you just described with the smoke when you stop is an oil back up in the drains, mine did the same shit until i ran a vacuum on the crankcase with an Cobra pump to stop it. When you come to a stop the oil in the pan runs to the front of the pan and pushes the oil back up the drain line, which is why i will never put a drain fitting on the front of the pan, as soon as i pull my motor to swap it for the new one my drains will be on the side of the pan and not the front.

 

Try a smaller restrictor..I use one .065 for both of my turbos.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

My drain bungs are on the sides of the pan, as close to the top as I could get them. Probably centered 1" in below top of pan, they are about 2-3" forward from the rear portion of pan. I moved the lines for the same reason as you, it wasn't draining properly at first. What is funny is that I haven't been letting the little slut warm up before driving it lately, and I haven't noticed that much smoking, but my driving is usually 10 min max driving to and from school. What you say may be correct. I am kind of fed up with the car, I have a squeak coming from the front end that is really pissing me off, and I can't figure out what it is. I think it may be a motor mount, or piping moving when the engine moves. At least it is not mechanical. It makes the noise while coasting with the engine off.

For the cobra pump, is it used as a vacuum pump? Or is it hooked to the oil lines? Any chance you could send me a link to the pump (ebay or whatever) so I can see what you are talking about?

Restrictor wise, I am not sure what I am running right now (1.5mm, or .059" I think, that is what is recommended on the DSM forums). I guess I could try smaller restrictors. That is pretty small already. I should just let the bitch smoke. Stupid hippies around here need more to complain about.

 

Well this is a little weird. You are the only other person I know running evo 16Gs. How much power have you made? Got any pics? I've had my setup for about 3-4 years now and it's funny you ask this question because I just pulled my oil feed from the back of my heads over the winter both because one of the seals has gone on one of my turbos (after 15k) and to clean it up a bit.

why is this advised against? I need a reason.

Increasing vacuum is simple, put a 1/2-3/4" nipple on your intake pipes for your turbos, run that to a baffled and sealed can with steel wool and then run that to your valve cover, vacuum.

 

At ~10 psi, 450rwhp uncorrected, the dyno graph is on the last page of the build log here https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/360472-2003-Mustang-GT-Twin-Turbo-Fender-Mounted

Thanks for the info, I will have to try the vacuum setup. You have any pics of your car?

Finally found the mystical squeak. It was the mount for my turbo, the bolt moves because the motor mounts are shot and when I drop the clutch the engine rocks back and forth, making the turbo move and squeak. I hit the motor mount and the turbo mount with some wd40 and the noise went away for a day. I think I may get some solid mounts.