had something strange happen today. i teched my car in at the strip and on the way back to the pits i heard a weird squeak/whistle sound when i goosed it and boost dropped along with rpm. at first i thought i blew a coupler off the charge pipe but it was repeatable. so i had a fried watch while i hit it on the trans brake a few times. it went to about 3500rpm and around 3 lbs boost then squeaked, engine slowed down(1800 rpm) and boost falls to nothing. he said he found nothing so i looked while he braked it. squeak sounded like it was coming from the bell housing, almost like a spun main. i took a datalog with the megasquirt and looked at it at first it looked like it was hitting launch retard , but verified it wasnt, everything on the engine management cheks out. at this point i decide to put it on the trailer no use making it worse and notice the stall was almost like a stock converter WTF.


it got me to thinking either i bent over some fins in the converter or i am spinning the stator shaft in the pump. has this happened to anyone before?

 

Spun stator shaft..l usually motor will not make bost, very lazy

 

i tried my luck at a tear down of the powerglide. simple transmission. no major damage to the internals other than the pump. the whole transmission was full of trash. look like i broke the sprag in the converter.

i have a few questions

i believe the pump is warped or machined wrong. if you wer to hold the pump and turn it a little it matches the wear i have seen in the transmission. input shaft rubbing the stator tube and and bushing wear on the pump body from the direct assembly are at different sides. i have no idea what pump to look for i have a transbrake and manual valve body and a turbo converters shaft. also the pump gears were put in so the flat side was toward the converter not the tapered side, is this correct?

i have an unidentified 1.80 straight gear set.the pins for the planets and bolts for the retaining ring have rubbed the low sun gear flange(warped pump?, loose thrust?) the thrust washer that goes on the end of the input shaft to output shaft is bad, do i have to do a complete tear down on it or can i just pull the planet gears?

i have an input shaft im not sure what it is, i havent found any dead ringer pics of it on the internet. the splines look like they wer broached instead of cut/ground should i keep using this?

my transmission came with no bushing in the stator tube would i benifit from using one?

who makes a converter that holds up to a shitpile of torque and dosent cost $2000(looking for a $1000 one) i run mid 9's @147 shifting at 5500rpms with 3.08 gears in a 3000lb car

i have more ?'s but cant type as fast as i can think.

 

Ptc converters

 

You can use any original Powerglide front pump from an aluminum Powerglide as long as the pump body is not worn out of spec in the pump gear pocket. New pump gears are readily available for the original pumps. It is a good idea to have the stator body resurfaced on the pump side to insure a nice flat surface. There is a variance in OEM stator bodies in both the lube hole for the pump gears and the hole for the converter charge circuit. We drill both of these passages to 7/32" in all of our OE-based Powerglide pumps. This requires an extra long drill bit in order to completely drill the hole for the converter charge circuit. The inner pump gear in your current pump sounds like it was installed upside down. There should be a small recess machined into the I.D. of the inner pump gear. This recess should face out towards the torque converter.

The planetary pins/bolts wearing into the inside of the ring gear is normally caused by an excessive end-play issue, and can also be caused by a failed/worn-out bearing that rides between the rear of the case and the back of the planetary carrier. This can also be caused by a case that is worn out or damaged on the surface where that rear roller bearing rides. New rear bearings are readily available, although there isn't anything wrong with using a good original GM bearing either.

Check the oil holes in the input shaft to see if they're still round or if they're oblong. If the holes are oblong at all then the shaft is starting to twist and failure is imminent. In this case you will want to replace the shaft.

Most custom torque converters feature a turbine support bushing in the front cover of the converter. This bushing serves to support the turbine and in turn support the input shaft which eliminates the necessity of running a bushing in the front of the stator tube.

We can build a torque converter for you that is in your price range and that will offer unbeatable durability, quality, and performance. We can also help you out with any parts you need for your Powerglide. We are a forum sponsor and I offer forum member discounts on our entire product line.

 

Forgot to address your planetary thrust washer question... if you remove one of the long pinion gears from the assembly then you should be able to slide out that thrust washer and slide in a new one. It's not uncommon for that thrust washer to take a bit of beating and need replacement, especially if the end play isn't set just right.

You can actually machine out the center of that thrust washer and install a Torrington roller bearing from a speedometer drive out of a front wheel drive TH125 transmission. If you choose to perform this modification then you will need to chamfer the I.D. of the back side of the sun gear so that it will clear the roller bearing. This arrangement allows the sun gear to ride on the thrust washer like normal and allows the end of the input shaft to ride against the roller bearing. While this isn't absolutely necessary, it will virtually eliminate all wear in that thrust washer, and it does reduce a bit of friction.

 

i went through the transmission and got it back in to go to the track. i ended up putting in a new pump, rear sun gear, output shaft and new bushings.

it took a few days of searching on the internet to find out the manufacturer of the gearset since it had no part numbers on it. only thing it had was "advantage" turns out it was a winters gearset. also redneck performance forgot to install the wedding band bushing. the transmission is quite a bit quieter now in neutral.


the torqu converter i got is too loose again

theres were my; track times


5# 10.2 @133
9# 9.73 @142
13# 9.52 @145
15# 9.8@ 142
at 15 # boost the tach went to 6000 and stayed there. i normally shift 5800- 6000