Honestly I did!

After reading similar posts on the site I am guessing I have a leaking turbo seal? About my combo I have a DSS 331 with GT40 irons, E303, Cobra upper and lower and an Incon 800 TTi kit. They kit was "used" and I am thinking I prolly should have had the turbos rebuilt before I slapped them on!!! Anyway the car runs and all but I am seeing oil shoot out the exhaust when gently revving it. I do however have no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil. I have also read about an oil restrictor that can help? I am running the Ford Hi Volume oil pump, not sure if that makes a difference. I apologize if this topic has been brought up before! I am after all a newbie!!! Forgive me!

Thanks in advance!

 

Yyou need new seals. At this point, I believe, a restrictor is useless

 

i can't believe it wouldn't just smoke like a freight train... I have only had turbos leaking on a turbo eclipse I did and it would just smoke because the downpipe temps were hot enough to burn it off... are you sure it's oil and not just running rich at some point causing hydro carbons to build up in the exhaust and when you rev it the exhaust sweats and it looks like black oil... I have seen that a lot... stick your fingers in it and then rub them together does it feel petroleum based like oil or like water, what does it smell like and did you taste... just a dab on your tongue but only if it feels like water!!! sweet indicates coolant if it is like water... just sweating exhaust system... totally natural!!! hope it helps... happy holidays hopefully you don't have to have them rebuilt that would suck... I always loved those kits... very stealthy.

 

the oil drains on the incon kit are not that great-- make sure the return path has a full downward flow path to the pan.

 

The same thing happened to me when I blew the seals in my previous turbo, when I first started up the car, oil would drip out the exhaust (dumps) then it would start smoking as the exhaust got hotter.

 

Thanks for the replies!!!!!!!!!!!! I am fairly certain that it is oil due to the feel of the fluid between my fingers but I have not tried to taste it yet! I will try that tonight! I am fairly certain it is not fuel either as it does not evaporate quickly off the ground. Once side does it a little and one side (driver) does it a whole lot more. I am thinking I may have the return line pinch a bit on the driver side. I hope to remedy this with a thicker "spacer" on the driver side. Has anyone ever removed the turbo off of one of these kits WITHOUT removing the manifold? I am thinking I will have to take the whole assembly off to get it rebuilt.

 

ill kiss your ass if you can get that turbo off without the manifold! do you have the shims ont eh motor mounts that lift the motor 5-6 mm up? if not, you probably are pinching the return hose.

 

Yes i do have the shims but I am running the Griggs racing K member. I am thinking I need to run the "thick" spacer on the drivers side. Or thick spacers on both sides.

Cheers!

 

Also want to ask if it is safe to run the car in this condition. Other than oil loss is there more consequence?

Thanks!

 

if you are losing oil... I wouldn't run the car it may just make it even worse... you could check the oil level though and calculate and an approximate consumption rate... but hey if you have coil overs in front... just put the car on jackstands... and the front of it on the subframe part... then put a cherry picker on the engine, you then remove the two motor mount nuts unbolt the k member at the ball joints and disconnect the steering link and drop the k member.. then lower the motor down a couple of inches. unbolt turbos... have them rebuilt and reverse to install...

 

I like the idea of dropping the K member but wouldn't I have to re-align it with plumb bobs and all that?

 

First, I'd install oil restrictors and make sure the drains are flowing properly. If it's still spitting oil after that, you have a seal problem. If you rebuild the turbos without making sure the basics are in order, you'll probably just push oil through the new seals.

 

I am assuming an "oil restrictor" attaches somewhere along the oil feed tube? Would I have to pull the turbos off?

 

Search "oil restrictor". There is a ton of info there with everything you need to know. You should not need to pull the turbos to install restrictors since they go in the oil feed line but I don't know what you need to do to get at the drains.

 

This is what I bought:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F7-T...ryZ33742QQihZ006QQitemZ160064528130QQtcZphoto


Or


http://www.function-7.com/products.html

 

Was your car doing the same thing?

 

Got some good info for ya here....

I recently had my Incon 800 turbos rebuilt at Majestic turbo in Dallas. Mike did a great job & total cost was around $600.

I got the turbos back & had an oiling issue....would blow smoke ~45 seconds after fire up & smoke out the entire neighborhood. I was loosing about 1qt every few hundred miles....although most of the driving I do with the car is back & forth from the dragstrip. I installed larger drain lines....didn't help. Sent the turbos back to Majestic....no change. I eventually found the problem & just recently fixed it.

The Incon kits were sent out with the wrong oil restrictor. The ones on my kit were supposed to be used for the 'T' series turbos, not the 'GT' series. The difference is the 'T' series restrictors are .060" & the 'GT' series restrictors are .035". Swapping to the correct restrictors & buying different -4AN feed line (required as the new restrictor has a male fitting) cured the problem. Cost less than $100.
www.atpturbo.com
They sell the correct restrictors. I also ordered custom feed lines to fit. One line 24" long, the other 40" long. Both with one straight & one 90 degree fitting.

Next issue I see is the High volume oil pump....that's definately not helping things. You should only run a HV pump when your bearing clearances are .003"+ Assuming your DSS 331 is like most, your bearings clearances are between ..0015-.002". You do not need an HV pump. Swapping back to a standard volume is a good idea & will actually give a little more HP.

Behond that, my last setup was very similar to your current one. Home-ported GT40 Irons on a 331 with a Cobra intake (ported), Custom turbo cam (219/219 113LSA), Incons at 12-13psi & through a 5spd it ran a best of 11.1 @128mph @3500lbs.

Oh....& one last thing. The last time I took off the turbos I left the engine in place & did NOT remove the manifolds. It's a major PITFA.....but definately doable. It would have been a little easier if I ran an aftermarket K-member. Took even longer to re-install the damn things like that....

 

Not if you drill 4 small holes (2 each side) and run some tek screws in them. That way when you go to re-install, snug it up but don't tighten, then re-install the 4 tek screws in their holes (2 each side) then it will be exactly where it was, then tighten it up.

 

No, I just run a dwonpipe. But I am having a smoking issue at idel.

 

it will smoke for a good while till all the oil is out of the exhaust system, do a restrictor if that don't work after a while then the seals need to be replaced or your drain is either to small or is not running straight down.