Ok, the last time I was out, about the same weather, I ran

13.23 @ 108.8, 2.2 60 ft.

after PI Stallion 2800 (feels more like 2500) triple disc converter and some used Nittos, I ran a

12.70 @ 110.1 , 2.0 60 ft.

Not too bad. drop of 1/2 a second, pretty decent. I still have a decent amount of lag off the line! I have absolutely no traction issues, just an incredibly weak launch until the boost kicks in. I was told by PI that the converter is around a 2800 stall, but foot braking, I can only get it to around 2300, and therefore, no boost can be built off the line.

Do you think a 2 step rev limiter set to around 2300 would build boost off the line?
The converter is great for the street, don't know if I want to loosen it up much more if any.

Is the only way to build boost off the line a transbrake! Does anybody make a transbrake for the AODE or 4r70w that is not full manual and will allow automatic shifting, after all, this is a street machine. I'm sick of these crappy 60ft. I know naturally aspirated Mustangs with a much more harry cam gets much better 60ft than I do, a stock cam is supposed to put out butt loads of torque at low end, what else can I freakin' do to get some torque at low end, off the line till the freain' turbo spools!

Other than the bad 60ft, I think the car is doing as expected. What do you guys think, with 8 - 9 lbs of boost, should I expect more from my setup? The car sure does feel strong! Can't wait to start turning that boost up!

 

Did you try flashing it off the line instead of foot braking it?

BTW - nice gains

 

I made 6 good runs, tried bringing it up as high as I could and let it go, tried flashing it from 1100 rpm, and many different combinations. It was the most consistent car I've ever raced! ET's never varied by more than 8 hundreths. 60ft were very consistent, but it did the best when I flashed it starting around 1100 rpm.

 

i'll bet it did the best flashing it because when you were foot braking it the engine was loading up with fuel from the 42's...

give us a run down on your tune:
initial timing-
any retard-
fuel pressure-
engine combo-

now, here's what i think you should set things at with a stock engine!!

timing, 8*'s initial if running over 10psi... 10*'s if under 10psi.
NO retard
36lbs. fuel pressure/line off

 

oh, i forgot you have a 94-95 car. the computer settings may be different. i've herd they have detonation issues

 

The long block is bone stock, as is the fuel pressure regulator. Pretty sure it sits around 38lbs of fuel pressure with line off. I can tweec using the tweecer to get any mixture right (with some practice). I've got WBO2 setup, so I may need to do some WOT testing at below boost level RPM's to see if I'm off. I think I'll do that next.

I've got the tweecer setup to give me around 21 degrees of timing at 3000 (turbo is fully spooled by then) under full load, at 2500 I have it set to 25 (no hint of ping, not full boost yet either). I then bring the timing up a couple of degrees as rpm's build. Shifting around 5500 rpm

Last time I checked, fuel ratio bounced from 11.5 to 12.8, eratic for some reason.

Fuel pressure looked steady at the end of track.

Ignition is stock so no retard.

initial time is set to 10 so the values in the tweecer are accurate.

 

told ya it would go 12's with the converter
that mph is good for well into the 12's with a decent 60' - probably 12.40's with an ok 60' and low 12's if you were just killing it through the 60'. that car would really be flying with a transbrake to build boost. fwiw, my car acts the EXACT same way if i try and footbrake it with my 9 1/2" stallion non-lockup PI converter. it goes around 2.05-2.08's but on the transbrake has spun it's way to a 1.561 and a ton of low 1.6x's. it should go high 1.40's with the new setup if the rearend hangs in a little longer now that it won't be spinning, we'll see. anyways, LOTS of potential there with 110+mph trap speeds.
Congrats!

 

hmmm, you say your a/f ratio is 11.5-12.8 with 38lbs base pressure...... when i dynoed my car it made 491rwhp and the a/f was off the chart with the pressure set at 40psi. i had to lower it to around 36 to get the a/f into the 11's... Are you running stock rails and lines? are you sure your system is up to the task? i've seen kinked lines and clogged filters reek havoc on tuning.

 

It was my understanding you weren't supposed to use a stock fuel reg. and any type of supercharging.

 

i made well over 500rwhp with the stock regulator on my car without any problems. i don't really see why it'd be a problem - he has other ways to deal with fuel with his tweecer anyways...

 

Ya, all stock lines and rails. Running only a Walbro 255 pump. I have access to a Trex, but my fuel pressure is staying steady at the top end, so I was assuming it was OK. Now that I look at my WB02 logs, I think I may be getting a little lean at the end of the track, and am rich at the beginning. Think I'll get hold of that Trex just for insurance and do some more tuning.


Barry D. what kind of transbrake valve body do you have, does it allow for automatic operation still?

 

Here's a screen shot of one of my runs from last time, nothing should have changed. Don't know what that hickup was at the end.

 

Can you give me more information about your WB setup? I have a TwEECer RT setup for my 95 car. I've never seen a screen shot like that. Was that with the TwEECer software? If so, what version?

 

That log was from the Innovate WBO2, it sells for around $360 and comes with the new cheaper LSU4.2 sensor that is much less expensive then the older style sensor.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/

Seems to work pretty good, and the best bang for the buck.

 

ET down by 2.6 seconds and counting.

 

you have fueling issues!!! your a/f curve should be real smooth.. not choppy like that... NO Offense, but maybe you should eliminate the tweecer and just let the factory electronics have a try at it. i'll post my dyno chart and fuel curve later today..

oh, i just ran a 255 intank on my set-up. plenty of fuel delivery, but it doesn't mean your pump isn't bad.. or maybe you were running out of gas, how much do you keep in the tank?

 

I run about 1/2 a tank at the strip. I just don't know if I could run on the factory computer settings. I couldn't even get the thing to shift correctly with the 3.55 gears without tweecing. If I remember correctly, the stock computer settings on my car were detonation prone. I've been following the advice given on the Tweecer boards, I might post this there and see if they have any ideas. My dream setup would be the AEM EMS if I had a grand+ to spend, but then I'd have to have something run my transmission. I'm not sure what is causing the graph to pulsate, I do think I'm going to try the T-rex soon just for insurance.

 

You're converter is too tight if you want to foot brake it.

I've got an AOD that I footbrake on the launch. I had a 2800 stall and could only mange 2400-2500 with the foot brake and was cutting 1.90 sixty foot times leaving with no boost. I've now got a 3200 stall and it works a lot better and I can build boost with a 2-step (3000rpm). Where I didn't have traction issues before, I now do. 7.0s at 102mph is about what it is running on 26x10 M/T ET Drags with 1.7 sixty foots.

 

At 5,000rpm your A/F is starting to lean and keeps going to 14:1 which is dangerously lean.

What MAF are you using? What's your fuel system consist of.

Don't take this the wrong way cause we are all trying to help you keep you engine alive.

BTW are you running this on pump or race gas?

 

I'm running a pro-m 80mm calibrated for 42's, 42lb Bosch fuel injectors, 255 walbro pump. Stock lines, filter, rails.

93 octane pump gas.

I'm open to all advice that is available, I don't claim to be an expert, and won't be offended by advice. I just can't figure out why it would vary like that. I think at the end of that run, I may have let off the throttle and got back on it, so that spike probably isn't nothing. What I am worried about is the wiggling of that line and the raise towards the end of the run. Like I said, I think I'll try to install that TRex and see if that makes any difference (which I don't think it will)