Hey guys I have an HP Performance kit on my 302 based foxbody. It has a 8 blade holset with a .96 backside. Other than that nothing else to speak of as far as markings. The turbo was polished before I got it so all numbers are gone. From what I gather its a hx40 and the 8 blade flows 60lb/min?

What would be an upgrade to this?
Car made decent power but isnt what I wanted. Ive been looking and people seem to like the master power t76 on the setup I have?

Does anybody have experience with the turbo I have now?

 

I think 302f150 did a build on his mustang with that turbo (hx40w).

I have no experience with the t76.

 

The hx40 should make enough power to split the stock block if you are running one? How fast is the car with it?

 

It went 6.77 at 103
Yes stock block.
However I am swapping in a windsor setup here very soon.

 

Cool what are the details like heads, cam , boost etc? Sounds like it ran pretty well

 

I feel it could do better. Car only weighs 2675 WITH a 8.50 cage.
Afr 185 heads, lunati cam, edelbrock performer intake. Plenty of fuel currently on 13lbs with a PA c4 and built rear end.

 

Oh then turn the boost up you have about 200hp left in that turbo.

 

So this is a 60mm compressor? If it is a hx40 60mm, I will argue he is out of compressor (and turbine). The maps I found for the the 40 max out at about 550 fwhp at a pr of 2.... he can easily make more than 275 hp n/a with that setup.

 

IF you run the weight and mph on Wallace it makes 454hp hp so it's not out of turbo. The Dsm guys make well over 600hp with that turbo.

 

Okay... but at what boost level? Big difference between a dsm, and a 5.0 with good heads, and a cam.... that thing should do an easy 300 rwhp n/a.

 

The turbo is good for x amount of airflow if it is on a 2.0 or a 5.0. What intercooler, cam specs, converter slip etc? It isn't even close to maxing that turbo yet. Look at the archives at how fast the old 5.0 cars went with 60-62mm turbos.

 

I know they say its not boost level but hp level that kills these bottom ends but what psi level on a turbo that flows that little is getting into the danger zone?

The bottom end is also a .30 over with some probe pistons, stock rods, all arp, and a girdle with arp mains.

 

The intercooler is the one that the HP kits come with. Supposedly good well into the 600 rwhp range.
Cam im not 100% sure of the specs.
Converter is a 10" PA performance, stalls right around 3,000
373 rear gear.

 

Testchimp.... no disrespect meant here but, you need to look at a compressor map. It may support "x" hp, but that is at a high pressure ratio that the 5.0 will never see. It would actually be better suited if it were a stock headed, and cammed 5.0 that could run a higher pr, and not be off the map. The more hp made n/a is only going to make the compressor issue worse. I will agree that if it is only making 454hp at 13 psi, then there are other problems as well.

 

irupp33... heat is a byproduct of pushing a small compressor beyond where it is efficient. Hot air makes no power, and is detonation prone.

 

The one last thing im going to try is check TDC to the marks on the dampened I have. I went with a profesional products and ive heard the marks can be off on those.
My tuner when it was on the dyno suggested it because it didnt make power at the usual timing levels for similar setups. He said USUALLY when you go up with timing the power increases start to taper off when your reaching the danger zone.
My car was making leaps and bounds more power with timing, were talking 20-25 more wheel each pull with 1 degree.

If my Base timing was skewed by the marks being off on the dampener maybe it started out lower than normal on the dyno?

 

Or just put it on race gas and let it eat until the windsor goes in? lol

 

Definitely a good idea to verify tdc, and also watch your iat's.

 

Whats the most accurate way aside from pulling the head off?
In the turbo 4 cylinder world we used to pull a plug and use a dial indicator.

 

A piston stop. screw it in, turn engine until it touches, mark balancer. Turn opposite direction until stops, mark balancer, half way between marks is tdc. A degree wheel is most accurate, but could divide with calipers as well.