have been on this for a little over a month. only get to work on the truck about 2 to 3 hours a night (after the wife goes to bed) i will just post pictures if anyone has any questions just ask.

318 v8 10psi of boost (for now)
edelbrock carb 600cfm i think maybe 650
cam lift 420 in/ 443ex
all new gaskets, water pump, oil pump, lifters, valve springs & hardware, plugs, wires.
.63 a/r t3/t4 turbo
wastegate 7lb spring
rs bov
im sure there is more but anyway.











the goodies











final setup

 

few questions. i blew my head gasket yesterday and i have come to conclusion that oe replacement gaskets arent gonna cut. what should i use? mls, copper... also i am going to arp studs so if anyone knows what heads i have that would be cool w2, w5? idk it was originally a 4bbl 318 and the is a 2 by the spark plug hole between 6 and 8 and a j or a u between 2 and 4. thanks in advance guys

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Nevermind on the questions guys I figured it out took some research but found what I was looking for.

 

If you are blowing head gaskets you have an issue with the tune. Cool budget build.

 

I ordered arp studs and mls gaskets for the rebuild. Probably shouldnt have used the cheap ones that came with the gasket kit.

 

x2 and do you have a link to your turbo? What rpm range? A t3 turbine is probably not helping your hg issues either. Many use the cheap gaskets as a fuse to know when the tune is not right, and to prevent bigger problems.

 

It is lean and I am working on figuring all that out. I am new to carbs so trying to figure out all the jets and rods and everyrhing is gonna be an adventure. I have an aem wideband and it shows a little rich at idle. And lean any other time around 10.5 to 11 at cruising and boost just maxes out at 10 so im trying to figure it all out.

 

Yeah, its a steep learning curve. What are you doing for timing control, and what is you timing under boost. Do you have different springs for your waste gate, 5-7 psi would be a good place to start. I can't help with the Edelbrock tuning, but I wouldn't run it at anything over low to maybe mid 12's afr in boost.

 

Just the 7lb spring bur it can be doubled. I thought ibhad it set at 8lbs but when it blew the gasket it hit 10 or 11 lbs was the first time I opened the secondaries. I have read a few tuning threads on a few difderent forums. I am jist gonna order a tuning kit with various jets and rods and see how ckose I can go from there. Also havent checked the timing yet. Timing light apparently broke since the last I used it and it was only going for 2 days will be checking it when I get it back together just waiting on parts. Also can I just set my timing at idle and leave it and not run any advance on my dizzy?

 

If you have no way of controlling timing, you need to lock the mech advance, and start low... maybe 15*. If you're running the stock ign timing, thats a problem in itself. Once you do the studs, and mls you will be destroying pistons rather than gaskets if your tune is off.

 

Thanks I have been trying to get a little advice with no avail. But I am definitely gonna be getting her tuned in before I drive it again. And thanks for the dizzy advice I will do that.

 

Definitely get something going with timing, that's for sure a problem.

Also, how the hell much oil are you burning with the turbo clocked like that? Really need to be draining straight down into the pan.

 

Not burning any oil. But it was also brand new. Going to fix that as well. It is one big learning experience.

 

You really need to read and learn.Stop bucking what works or you will get tired of fixing it every time you start it.Turbos can be a blast if done right.Many people have tried Eddy carbs with minimal luck.Holleys are to easy to find and mod to beat your head on the wall.The wall will win.I have a 318 that has been together now for a year and it is a blast.I read post for months before building it.Burnt a piston on the first motor.Because i was stubborn.Listened and spent money in the right places and now lovin it.Learn from others experience and enjoy or get ready for blood sweat and tears.

 

I just seen your thread and welcome aboard,Timing is the first issue get a distributor with locked timing are take yours apart and weld it so it does not move and I would get a Holley to mod for blow through and that's where small blocks blow there gasket it's the weak spot I have had a few blow when I was learning and I did not have good luck with Comectic MSL head gasket sealing but I did not have the right surface so if you not having the block and heads resurfaced do not waste your time I had better luck with ICS/SCE copper HG and put Permatex 300 on my 5.9 magnum in my Dakota you check out build in the link below.Good Luck,Randy

 

Thanks for the info randy I appreciate it.

 

I started with a bone stock '84 318 I picked up cheap that had a fresh rebuild on. It checked right at 7.8-1. I blew the first 2 sets of head gaskets out on the dyno. I then O-ringed the deck and installed copper head gaskets. Also installed 340 Magnum valve springs. At 24 lbs. of boost on C-12 it made 536hp&586ftlbs.@4800rpm. Installed it in my 81 W-150, backed the boost down to a max of 18lbs for 87 octane swill, makes 460hp. I use a 600 edelbrock.