We all know how fragil the stock 4.6L lower end is once you start making power. I decided I wanted more that 400rwhp and I also knew that some of the modular stuff can break the bank. At first I ported a set of non pi heads, then later I got on the trick flow waiting list, then again later I decided the like new B-heads in the garage were going to be used. Some things I saved money on while others I skimped or worked around them. Overall it was fairly cheap compared to some of the stuff I have seen in the modular world. Some stuff is budget while other stuff is not so budget. In the end it will be fairly cheap for what it is I think. Im making progress slowly as I work to much but here is what I got so far.

Past hp: 427rwhp 463ftlbs 8psi (Stock non pi headed 2v)
New goal: 700rwhp (4v Beads ported with cams) psi???

Iron 2v romeo block .020 over squared, decked, and line honed with arp studs and MMR side bolts.
Stock cast crank shaft (fully balanced rotating assembly)
Keith Black forged pistons $418.00
Total Seal rings $255.00
Modular depot forged H-beam rods $260.00
Clevite H series tri coated bearings
Hawkins billet flywheel MMR, 750hp clutch
Ported B-heads (in the mail to MMR)

Machine work and cost (T&P Automotive San Antonio Tx.):

Cost as follows:
Clean engine "VAT" 35.00
Deck/square block 65.00
Rebore block .020 with torque plate 150.00
Polish, Chamfer oil holes on crank 25.00
Fully balance engine with clutch 95.00

Total: $370.00

Please dont laugh to hard about the living room build, it is a clean build I live in Texas and I am a red neck single with GF but living alone. Its cold out and my garage is to small so I could think of any other place....
Here some pics.

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I know the cast crank is normaly replaced by the forged version, however I think it will hold 700hp and I think it will be ok under 7k rpm. I have never seen one break and comparing the extra weight of the forged vs. cast if the cast crank holds up the I saved weight. I will take my chances.

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Here are the new Kieth Black forged pistons. I have to say for about 100.00 cheaper than everyone else you still get great quality. I paid 418.00 for them. I compared them to my MMR Manley and they wieghed close to the same even though the catalog listed them as heavyer. I noticed the wrist pin was not as wide as the manley yet it was allot thicker in material. Over all I was impressed as usual with the Kieth Black line. (Have had great luck with there hypertectic in 396W and 302 builds) I could have went cheaper on rings but I am a firm believer in thee total seal style of rings. However total seal needs to bring there price down! Damn, before my machinest passed away he would make regular rings into total seal rings for me for $35-50.00 extra. Overall to me its worth having.



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I file fit the rings with a pro form hand crank filer wich I have grown to love. If you need info on setting your ring gap these pages sould get you where you need to be. ASE spec is also included. Total seal does do a good job of getting your gap set perfectly if you follow there guides.

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Lastley I popped in all the slugs and here she is in short form.

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Sorry if the pics are blurry.

 

While I have been rouning up my oiling system parts I ran across a block drain kit from livernois. It extend's the block drains down into the pan helping keep oil off of the crank shaft. They claim power gains but Im not sure. Regardless I thought what the hell. 129.00 is way to damn over priced for 30.00 in tubing and fittings. I made my own drain kit except I used regular tubing fittings since I did not have a way to thread the tubing. I also used stainless tubing. I had this stuff laying around from turbo build and such. It is probably no more than $50-60.00 in materials and taps at the local industrial supply warehouse. I still need to trim the tubing but I was waiting on my pan to get a measurement. I tapped the holes and screwed in my tubing fittings. I did have to clearance the block a bit but it wasnt much, you will see why once the tubing goes in with the sleeve and tubing nut. I will get some more pics up when I get the tubing installed and continue progress. I have to work mon-sat so if parts come in I will try and get something done on Sunday. Overall cost on this was nothing....it just required me siffting through my tool box for fittings.

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nice job, keep up the good work

 

Nice....you should of tapped those returns before assembly

 

why? those minute metal shavings are not going to hurt anything......im sure he cleaned them out as well. And if he's like me, when he has it assembled, he'll run several oil changes through it w/o it even running once.

 

Yeah I didnt know I was going to put that in at the time. I cleaned it up good and most of it went out the drain holes anyway. I actually had a T-shirt wrapped around the crank/rods while I did it. I just removed it for a photo. No biggy.

 

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OK so wow I freaking found a steal on ebay. I payed 460.00 shipped for this new front end kit. It is a Qa1 K with upr A-arms and upr coil over kit. I thought it was a good deal. I waiting to purchase my turbo and MMR should have my heads today or thursday.

 

True to my word and budget I scored a HCI cobra intake for $350.00 I cant wait to clean it up and get it ready to go. I may get some stainless screws for it and powder coat it a nice silver but Im not sure yet. Im going to polish on it a bit and see what it looks like. I could have bought some IMRC delete plates for 200.00 and used my home built SSR copy cobra intake or pay the 350.00 and not have the extra hassle and end up with something rare and that works great. I am going to try and modify the fire wall to allow a spacer for the upper lid as the big air horns block a good part of the throttle body opening. I think it will help get the air evenly distrbuted to the runners to make a few extra hp. Saving your pennies so you can jump on the deals when you find them is worth waiting and searching. Im very happy so far with what I have for the money I spent. Cant wait to get it all together.

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Here it is after about 30 minutes of soap and water and scrubbing. It looks allot better than I thought it would. The massive ports remind me of the old cobra jet exhaust ports. I am stoked with this intake. Now I have to replenish the funds for a few weeks. Next on the list is to get my oiling set up. I also need to try and find a cruize control cable and T-body. I will have to work late a few days to help get this moving again with my budget. On a side note My MPT76 turbo should be delivered today. Ill try and post up picks when I get it in. Also MMR should have my heads done any day if they arent already back in the mail to me.

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Just thought I would note; my buddies '02 2valve with with Kris Starnes(Champion) head port work and an Al Papito built bottom end has been putting 600rwhp down for over a month now on the GT cast crank on a pump gas street tune.

I'm not a furd guy, but those mods motors make great power for being considerably smaller than most other plat-forms.

 

Thanks for the input Shagwell. I have been searching and searching for info on failed cast cranks on these and nobody has much to offer. The only thing I hear is if you plan on making over 600hp you need a forged crank. However most of those folks have yet to prove to me that it wont hold the power. I have a forged crank in the closet but the cast was allot lighter and it was in excellent shape. I figure if it doesnt hold I will have to re-build with a forged crank lesson learned but if it does hold then I am happy and maybe saved a little $$$ and weight in the process. Not sure how much power I will end up with but I do hope I can get up to 700rwhp on pump gas. I will just have to wait and see. 600hp on a 2v sure is motivating!

 

My turbo showed up today. It is an MP T76. Its got a .96 a/r on the turbine and .72 a/r on the compressor. I got a deal on it directly from master power for $630.00 on an ebay auction. Here it is also with a TO4B next to it for a size comparison.

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I've done a few "In-House" jobs as well One thing I ALWAYS do is put drop cloth/card board over the entire floor. You're going to ruin your carpet if you continue to sporadically and/or sparsely use place drop cloth over it.

 

I put tons of cardboard down under the engine. The other stuff stays in the garage. So far so good no stains! LOL The faster I get it done the quicker I can move it out and get it in the car. My fingers are still crossed.

 

Nice job man. I love the livingroom build. Id use my living room if it wasnt for the damn stairs.

 

X2 on the living room build, I'd do it but the wife would kill me :nut: Nice build BTW, keep it up