Hi,
I need a build thread, and I appreciate the opportunity to do it here.
I have a 2WD, RCSB '87 S-10, the only option was p/b.
There's tons of parts and info out there for how to swap a SBC V8 into one of these.
Because I started by trying an LSx, I've already done a tubular upper right side control arm, a Cherokee steering shaft, and an Explorer 8.8 axle swap, for which I have a set of 2.73:1 gears and a freshly rebuilt Traction-Lok, and also a welded-up "open" differential. In addition, it now sports a 3.27:1 open setup.
I redrilled the Explorer shafts and drums to the S-10 lug pattern, and bought a pair of Chinese copies of Corvette wheels, in a 19x10" +79 mm offset. Fit is excellent. Probably starting with Chinese 285/45s
I used a 700R-4, but it needs to go back into my Camaro, I have an SM465, and I have a new 12" clutch disc that fits the available 1.5" input shaft. With that, the SM465 can hold at least 1500 ft-lbs torque input.
My 305 is an '86, I've confirmed it has flat-top pistons under virgin 416 heads, but sadly no provisions for roller lifters.
I had some 062 Vortec 350 heads, I had them cut for 1.6" stainless exhaust valves, I started porting them, then they got stolen. I was planning a Lunati Voodoo 250 cam in a 114 LSA, but now I'm reverting to the Howards 255/261-114 HF cam.
I have an Edelbrock 3701 Performer EGR intake manifold, a couple of different HEI distributors, one of which is the large-cap computer-controlled, the other is '75-'80 style. I have 4 different carbs, one of them is a computer controlled Q-Jet, one is a '75 Q-Jet, one is an old 9000-series Carter AFB 625, and one is an Edelbrock in fair condition. The AFB and the CCC need rebuilds, but at least I have a gallon can of Chem-Dip.
I live in SLC, UT, so the elevation makes my 9.5:1 the same as 8.0:1 at sea level.
I'm using '86 Camaro LG4 exhaust manifolds, I'm planning a GT45 from DNA Motoring for $212 delivered, so today I started a shopping list for connecting these exhaust manifolds to this turbo. It uses a T4 flange, so any T4-flanged turbo will bolt up to this piping I'm figuring out.
My work is seldom pretty, and this should be no exception, but it should prove effective, affordable, and if anyone ever wants to copy it, well, I'll try to make this thread good enough to enable copying.
I believe that if you can't afford to do it well enough the first time, then you probably can't afford to do it a second time. So I'll be going stainless from the manifolds to the turbo.
Starting at the manifolds, first is flanges, Vibrant's 1470s is my choice, at $23 each. Then is 2" mandrel bends on both, Vibrant 13036 at $32 each for 90*, 45* is 13096 for $29. Any further bends to the Y can use the same PNs. My Y will be a Magnaflow 10748 for $32, then maybe a 2.5" 90* bend before the T4 flange, Vibrant 13051 is $42. The flange will be a Vibrant 1431 at $ 42, and to weld all this, some 308H should work.

 

Aw heck, that was easy, 308H electrodes all over ebay for about a dollar per pound. Nice.

 

Ok, that snail has a 3.5" V-band outlet, so the next part will be a Summit 694350 V-band SS clamp with SS flanges. $40. If I run a cat it will be a Magnaflow 59920 3.5" for $ 121, if I add a muffler I'll start with a Walker 24216 at $ 54, if that's too loud I'll try a Walker 21470 for $56, and if it needs any bends, probably a 90*, a 3.5" SS mandrel-bent by StainlessWorks, MB90350, runs $ 57.
The turbo may be cheap, but installing it isn't.
Next is a wastegate and/or BOV.

 

Found sticky tires that'll fit without major surgery, M/T ET Street S/S 285/35R19 drag radials

 

Got any pics? Sounds like a cool project. I love budget builds.

 

You're talking about the 208/[email protected] with 110 LSA? Very good choice in cam IMO for this. Should be pretty mild, and you'll end up with a broad torque band. The 86 isn't a bad engine, you'll gain a lot of power with just the cam alone. Sucks on the heads but I don't know if you'll hurt that bad over them tbh especially if you can cram some good fuel in it.

Your big questions should be fuel system, how to get the carb converted (or use a box) and how you're going to do timing. Depending on how racey this is you have a few options there.